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That looks great!
1980 Longbed Pickup Build - Epically Slow Style (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Sam Stewart
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #82
It actually came out really good! I'm very surprised and pleased with the results.
It does look a *little* rough when you get up close tho...
Also, they were out of the tan STILL. Even though the chick at the store told me they would have some more in stock by now.
- Thread starter
- #83
Clutch problems!
So I replaced my clutch the other day (see previous post) and I was still having an issue with my clutch not engaging fully. Basically, if I adjusted the clutch and slave to the limit I could get the gears to engage but just barely. So I ordered a master and slave and put them in and I still have the same problem. It's a little bit better but I still can't get full disengagement on the clutch. If I have it adjusted to the max I can get it into gear but you can feel the gears catching and the fork is pressing very hard on the throwout bearing. I was thinking the fork might be bent but then I got a call from a fellow MUDer that said he thought I needed to put a smaller bore slave cylinder with a longer stroke. Has anyone else run across this problem? Do you know what vehicle to get a slave from? I'm kinda stuck at this point. The truck is drivable... sort of... but I wouldn't want to go put it through the paces in it's current condition. The clutch is a heavy duty unit from Marlin Crawler.
So I replaced my clutch the other day (see previous post) and I was still having an issue with my clutch not engaging fully. Basically, if I adjusted the clutch and slave to the limit I could get the gears to engage but just barely. So I ordered a master and slave and put them in and I still have the same problem. It's a little bit better but I still can't get full disengagement on the clutch. If I have it adjusted to the max I can get it into gear but you can feel the gears catching and the fork is pressing very hard on the throwout bearing. I was thinking the fork might be bent but then I got a call from a fellow MUDer that said he thought I needed to put a smaller bore slave cylinder with a longer stroke. Has anyone else run across this problem? Do you know what vehicle to get a slave from? I'm kinda stuck at this point. The truck is drivable... sort of... but I wouldn't want to go put it through the paces in it's current condition. The clutch is a heavy duty unit from Marlin Crawler.
i had a similar problem, it ended up being the rod on the master cylinder was adjusted too far out, so this would not allow the clutch to fully engage, and slip when under load. and i was using a center force clutch, and the clutch was already in there and working fine before i replaced the master cylinder. another suggestion is to check and make sure the clutch disc was put in properly.
- Thread starter
- #85
I know the clutch disc is in correctly. I put it in myself. The master cylinder rod could be a possibility but when I had it adjusted in I had to pedal. I'm going to mess with the adjustment more on Monday and if I still can't get it right I'm going to check into the different slave cylinder.
theres always the possiblility that the clutch fork is bent. i just went through this whole thing with my 89 4runner. got a new clutch master 3 months ago, worked great, but then it just stopped working, so i did the slave, put a new clutch and pressure plate in, and it turns out the master needed to be replaced again. Anyways, like i said, maybe your clutch fork is bent?
^That too since I was just editing that in and Keith beat me to it! 
Tweaked, worn, or incorrect clutch fork? (Check for angle as well as wearing from the rod at the cups.)
Maybe wrong sleeve/shim behind the throwout bearing, or wrong style bearing?
How about the flywheel, how much left within spec is it once you machined it down??
Just thinking here b/c I know once Larry @ Yodaman swapped mine out to the 89-90 T/O for the R150/151's and threw in a newer flywheel my issues went away.
Give it a shot and see. There's a measurement described somewhere explaining how you can also take from the prongs to the clutch surface and account for tolerance differences.
Tweaked, worn, or incorrect clutch fork? (Check for angle as well as wearing from the rod at the cups.)
Maybe wrong sleeve/shim behind the throwout bearing, or wrong style bearing?
How about the flywheel, how much left within spec is it once you machined it down??
Just thinking here b/c I know once Larry @ Yodaman swapped mine out to the 89-90 T/O for the R150/151's and threw in a newer flywheel my issues went away.
Give it a shot and see. There's a measurement described somewhere explaining how you can also take from the prongs to the clutch surface and account for tolerance differences.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #88
I've considered the fork. I was going to go ahead and order one but its on back order so I thought I'd try some other stuff first. I'm pretty confident in the throwout because it was identical to the one that came out and fit the hub correctly. The flywheel was just lightly surfaced so Idk if that would be the problem. I have seen mismatched parts have issues like this but I have a matched clutch disc and pressure plate and an original flywheel. It really seems like I don't have enough movement in the slave to fully engage or disengage the clutch. When I have everything adjusted all the way out like it is now, the fork is putting a lot of pressure on the throwout but it still won't fully disengage the clutch. I appreciate the suggestions. I'm going to mess with it some Monday afternoon and I'll keep the updates coming.
It was nice talking to you on the phone! Thanks again for the good prices on the parts. In regards to the landcruiser slave I mentioned I just remembered I had to adapt it. It was simple and I used a piece of like 1.5" or 2" strap. The landcruiser slave has a wider bolt pattern. The flat strap iron had three holes which one bolted the slave through the metal and into the bellhousing the middle bolt was just a bolt that bolted the strap to the bellhousing and the third was a bolt and nut that held the fj slave to the metal strap. Hope that makes sense. Again you have to search for the right slave that has the smaller bore size. I am not saying to do this right now as hopefully you will find an issue and fix it but IF for some reason you cant seem to find it and the slave just doesnt have enough throw its an idea.
- Thread starter
- #90
I've been searching on MUD and I ran across this thread... might be worth checking in to.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/543515-clutch-slave-cylinder-difference.html
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/543515-clutch-slave-cylinder-difference.html
- Thread starter
- #91
So after doing some research I have found that the FJ60 master is a larger bore diameter. I'm not sure if it would bolt directly up or not. That would be the only issue. The bore size of the original MC is 5.8" and the slave is 3/4". The LC master is 3/4" so it should move a little more fluid. I am also going to check the master adjustment at the pedal because I believe it is adjusted all the way out which could cause it to not fully engage.
I replaced the clutch in a v6 pickup and i had to adjust the pedal to master way out and you still have to get it almost to the floor before it will disengage. It was a new marlin clutch and a new flywheel. I was acting like you described and i was getting ready to pull the trans to make sure i put things together correctly.
- Thread starter
- #93
We spent a good while adjusting the master and slave this afternoon woth the same result. I am considering ordering an aftermarket master from the FJ60 and see if it will bolt up or not. If it fits I can test it and if that fixes it I will order a Toyota one. We've been messing with the electrical a bit now. The electrical is so bad on this truck it's almost comical.
I bolted a newer pickup master to my fj40 not that it is the same as you described but maybe it helps support that your theory is worth a try. A bigger bore on the MC will not help if you are reaching full stroke on your slave. Might confirm that first prior to swapping. No luck on a FJ40 slave with a smaller bore?? Because it definately has a longer stroke??
I searched through my junk and here is what I found. I didnt look hard at the link you shared so you may have already found your answer but it looks to me based off of when I searched hard that you most likely have a 13/16s bore slave cylinder and they DO IN DEED make a 3/4 bore fj40 slave which FJ40s have longer strokes for sure. The slave is very easy to adapt as I mentioned above. The hardest part is finding the right year for the 3/4 bore
Here is my original notes:
"So as an fyi it appears that most if not all minitruck slaves are 13/16 bore and have a short stroke. The fj40 slaves came in 13/16 or 3/4 bore and have a bit longer stroke. I do not know the year difference as NAPA looked it up and ordered us the 3/4 that showed up as a 13/16 so I went home and started looking at mine and ended up having to take mine off for now and put on his jeep as it was in deed a 3/4 bore. Problem solved thanks!"
I think I may have had to buy a brakeline fitting adapter and I think I reflared the hardline to a standard american thread to fit the adapter.... Easier than I am making it sound. Also again just going off of my terrible memory.
Here is my original notes:
"So as an fyi it appears that most if not all minitruck slaves are 13/16 bore and have a short stroke. The fj40 slaves came in 13/16 or 3/4 bore and have a bit longer stroke. I do not know the year difference as NAPA looked it up and ordered us the 3/4 that showed up as a 13/16 so I went home and started looking at mine and ended up having to take mine off for now and put on his jeep as it was in deed a 3/4 bore. Problem solved thanks!"
I think I may have had to buy a brakeline fitting adapter and I think I reflared the hardline to a standard american thread to fit the adapter.... Easier than I am making it sound. Also again just going off of my terrible memory.
- Thread starter
- #96
From what research I did it looks like they do make a slave that is 3/4 for the LC. The aftermarket guys keep telling me that the 40 slaves and masters are special order, don't have specs, etc, etc. Also, the slave I have is supposedly a 3/4 as well (but I assume a shorter stroke). The interesting thing is that the master is only a 5/8. It seems like logically the master would have a bigger bore.
I ordered an FJ60 master which came in today so when I have time later I'm going to go do some recon and see if it looks like it will work. Good point about the slave reaching full stroke. I'll check that as well.
I ordered an FJ60 master which came in today so when I have time later I'm going to go do some recon and see if it looks like it will work. Good point about the slave reaching full stroke. I'll check that as well.
- Thread starter
- #97
FJ60 master will not bolt up. Bolt pattern is similar but not close enough. We just adjusted is as far as we could. It's driveable now but I feel like it's going to eat up the throwout bearing by holding constant pressure on it. It's not exactly a DD so I'm not that worried about it for now but it will need to be addressed at some point. The electrical just got a little more interesting. There is a ~25 amp fuse in the gage fuse spot and it's supposed to be a 10! Also, the 25 and the wire going to it were really hot after leaving the ignition on for a while. At least we have a clue where to look now.
- Thread starter
- #98
So all the lights are now working with the exception of the dash lights. We ended up running a new power wire for the park light/running light circuit from the relay to eliminate the short to power. So, I can now drive legally on the street! Still need to get those wheels and tires tho...
I need to run the power wire for the electric fuel pump to another power source. Currently its run to the turn signal ciruit and is pulling massive current when both are on.
I need to run the power wire for the electric fuel pump to another power source. Currently its run to the turn signal ciruit and is pulling massive current when both are on.
- Thread starter
- #99
Making some progress!
I think I am going to pull the diff and weld it before GSMTR this year. I feel like I will be too limited with open front and rear diffs and I don't have the time or money to do gears and lockers.
Very nice...keep plugin away!
