Combat Chuck said:
agreed!
1980 Longbed Pickup Build - Epically Slow Style
- Thread starter Sam Stewart
- Start date
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agreed!
- Thread starter
- #62
Yeah I've towed the little truck a couple times with the
's 09 Runner. It tows it fine as long as you stay around town. I wouldn't tow it on an 8% grade tho (like going to GSMTR.) That's where the Tundra comes in. 
Trailer is all hooked up and ready to go. Getting ready to go get the beast here in a minute!
- Thread starter
- #63
Picked up the beast. Luckily it was still where I left it.
The Tundra in it's natual habitat:
Oh look at that! He found his brother.
Sorry for the bad cell phone pics. My phone is pretty much a piece of junk. At least now the repairs can begin! (When I have time.)
The Tundra in it's natual habitat:
Oh look at that! He found his brother.
Sorry for the bad cell phone pics. My phone is pretty much a piece of junk. At least now the repairs can begin! (When I have time.)
Wow you guys have a late 80s truck on the lot? Or is this not at the dealership.
- Thread starter
- #65
It's an employee's truck. He just got his son a Tacoma and they're selling that one. It's an 87 if anyone is interested.
- Thread starter
- #66
Don't have any pics but I pulled the truck in the shop late yesterday and it looks like the idle/throttle solenoid was the culprit. Aparrently they like to lose ground and it will make the truck idle super high. We stuck a test light in the terminal and it lowered the idle way down. One of the guys that has been working on Toyotas since before most of us were born came over and was looking at it. He went all Rain Man on the carb and told me he could fix it up if I ordered a carb kit, so I did. He replaced a few misc pieces and cleaned it up really well... apparently I had not done as good of a job as I thought. So, solenoid grounded out, carb cleaned up, couple new pieces and a couple gaskets later, should run like a dream. I'll keep the updates coming. 
Don't have any pics but I pulled the truck in the shop late yesterday and it looks like the idle/throttle solenoid was the culprit. Aparrently they like to lose ground and it will make the truck idle super high. We stuck a test light in the terminal and it lowered the idle way down. One of the guys that has been working on Toyotas since before most of us were born came over and was looking at it. He went all Rain Man on the carb and told me he could fix it up if I ordered a carb kit, so I did. He replaced a few misc pieces and cleaned it up really well... apparently I had not done as good of a job as I thought. So, solenoid grounded out, carb cleaned up, couple new pieces and a couple gaskets later, should run like a dream. I'll keep the updates coming.
Check the fuel cut solenoid while you're at it.
It causes the reverse of the idle solenoid problem, in that it won't idle at all.
They suffer the same weaknesses with grounding, and other wear-related issues.
- Thread starter
- #68
Yeah apparently the solenoid I have is no good. We're trying another one now.
It would be worth looking into to see if they're rebuildable, I hate throwing parts away.
- Thread starter
- #70
I got my hands on one. I had another carb with a good one on it. Truck is running really well now. I do need to get in there and adjust the valves. I think they are adjusted way too tight. The carb is good to go at this point. Checked the vacuum advance on the dizzy and it actually works! Very surprising. We had to do an emergency repair on the oil pressure guage line. It has an aftermarket guage with a plastic line and the line had a split. The copper is the way to go apparently but I think they must line it with gold based on the price...
So, currently on the list of things to do (random order):
Fix positive battery terminal
Install body lift on cab
Replace clutch
Adjust valves
Clean out cab and prep for bedliner
Primer and bedliner inside cab
Re-wire inline fuel pump
Fix wiring for alternator (will go into more detail later)
Figure out wiring for light circuit (make sure it's not still back-feeding into the ignition)
Go get wheels (yeah I know I said I was going to do this like 2 months ago)
Mount wheels and *slightly* used tires
I'm sure I'll think of and/or find more things.
With the exception of the bedliner in the cab all the rest of the stuff will get the beast
. Oh yeah!
- Thread starter
- #71
I got my hands on one. I had another carb with a good one on it. Truck is running really well now. I do need to get in there and adjust the valves. I think they are adjusted way too tight. The carb is good to go at this point. Checked the vacuum advance on the dizzy and it actually works! Very surprising. We had to do an emergency repair on the oil pressure guage line. It has an aftermarket guage with a plastic line and the line had a split. The copper is the way to go apparently but I think they must line it with gold based on the price...
So, currently on the list of things to do (random order):
Fix positive battery terminal
[STRIKE]
Install body lift on cab
[/STRIKE]Replace clutch
Adjust valves
Clean out cab and prep for bedliner
Primer and bedliner inside cab
Re-wire inline fuel pump
Fix wiring for alternator (will go into more detail later)
Figure out wiring for light circuit (make sure it's not still back-feeding into the ignition)
Go get wheels (yeah I know I said I was going to do this like 2 months ago)
Mount wheels and *slightly* used tires
I'm sure I'll think of and/or find more things.
With the exception of the bedliner in the cab all the rest of the stuff will get the beast
Looks like I will need to give some credit to the Lowe Toyota Pit Crew on this rig. They installed my body lift "because they were bored."
- Thread starter
- #72
I was off work yesterday so I came in to work on the beast. The goal was to get the clutch installed (Marlin Crawler HD clutch) and do some more wire chasing. I didn't get as many pictures as I would have liked because the majority of the day I was covered in 32 years worth of grease and dirt.
I pulled the transmission and found that the clutch was SMOKED. Notice the disc surface...
I also found that the throwout bearing had worn badly into the pressure plate. The throwout and pilot bearings were also both very bad. The pressure plate didn't look terrible so I just had it turned at the local machine shop.
While I was waiting on the flywheel I decided to clean up the bell housing some. It was caked with nasty crud from years of oil/dirt/clutch material building up.
The trans:
The bell housing re-installed with the new throwout beaing (after a good scrubbing in some solvent):
Still waiting on the machine shop
... So installed some stickers.
So, once I got the clutch in and the trans back in the truck. The clutch wouldn't disengage. I had adjusted the slave about as far as it could go so this was strange. I removed the slave again and adjusted the rod to the brink and voila. I had a clutch. Interesting that I had to adjust it so much. Also, the clutch pedal felt a little funny. Not just from the increased clutch pedal resistance (which is fairly substantial) but more like it was catching in the MC and popping. In my experience that usually indicates that the plunger has worn a groove in the inside of the MC and is popping when it hits it. I inspected the MC a little closer and it was also leaking... Awesome. So, I think the heavier pressure plate is too much for the old worn out MC and that's why I had to adjust it out so far at the slave. Looks like I will need to bite the bullet and go ahead and order a master and slave.
On to the wiring. I did make some progress on my issue. I haven't gone into too much detail about what is happening so I will try to describe the problem as good as I can. Basically, when you turn the ignition on OR the headlight switch, it has the same effect. Either one causes power to go to the ACC position on the ignition switch. Also, the tail lights stay on all the time if the truck is on. We looked at everything. Alternator wire was broken, fixed that, no change. Unplugged the voltage regulator, no change. Unplugged the harness to the back of the truck, no change. That is interesting because the circuit is completed through the back of the truck. So I am pretty sure I have a short to power somewhere in the harness between the plug that attaches the harness to the back of the truck and the guages. I am going to investigate further and I may just cut the wire in question out and run a new one to see if that eliminates the issue. I'll update when I have more info.
The good thing is, now the beast can drive under its own power!!!
I pulled the transmission and found that the clutch was SMOKED. Notice the disc surface...
I also found that the throwout bearing had worn badly into the pressure plate. The throwout and pilot bearings were also both very bad. The pressure plate didn't look terrible so I just had it turned at the local machine shop.
While I was waiting on the flywheel I decided to clean up the bell housing some. It was caked with nasty crud from years of oil/dirt/clutch material building up.
The trans:
The bell housing re-installed with the new throwout beaing (after a good scrubbing in some solvent):
Still waiting on the machine shop
... So installed some stickers.
So, once I got the clutch in and the trans back in the truck. The clutch wouldn't disengage. I had adjusted the slave about as far as it could go so this was strange. I removed the slave again and adjusted the rod to the brink and voila. I had a clutch. Interesting that I had to adjust it so much. Also, the clutch pedal felt a little funny. Not just from the increased clutch pedal resistance (which is fairly substantial) but more like it was catching in the MC and popping. In my experience that usually indicates that the plunger has worn a groove in the inside of the MC and is popping when it hits it. I inspected the MC a little closer and it was also leaking... Awesome. So, I think the heavier pressure plate is too much for the old worn out MC and that's why I had to adjust it out so far at the slave. Looks like I will need to bite the bullet and go ahead and order a master and slave.
On to the wiring. I did make some progress on my issue. I haven't gone into too much detail about what is happening so I will try to describe the problem as good as I can. Basically, when you turn the ignition on OR the headlight switch, it has the same effect. Either one causes power to go to the ACC position on the ignition switch. Also, the tail lights stay on all the time if the truck is on. We looked at everything. Alternator wire was broken, fixed that, no change. Unplugged the voltage regulator, no change. Unplugged the harness to the back of the truck, no change. That is interesting because the circuit is completed through the back of the truck. So I am pretty sure I have a short to power somewhere in the harness between the plug that attaches the harness to the back of the truck and the guages. I am going to investigate further and I may just cut the wire in question out and run a new one to see if that eliminates the issue. I'll update when I have more info.
The good thing is, now the beast can drive under its own power!!!
Wow and Awesome! 
- Thread starter
- #74
I got my hands on one. I had another carb with a good one on it. Truck is running really well now. I do need to get in there and adjust the valves. I think they are adjusted way too tight. The carb is good to go at this point. Checked the vacuum advance on the dizzy and it actually works! Very surprising. We had to do an emergency repair on the oil pressure guage line. It has an aftermarket guage with a plastic line and the line had a split. The copper is the way to go apparently but I think they must line it with gold based on the price...
So, currently on the list of things to do (random order):
Fix positive battery terminal
[STRIKE]Install body lift on cab[/STRIKE]
[STRIKE] Replace clutch[/STRIKE]
Adjust valves
Clean out cab and prep for bedliner
Primer and bedliner inside cab
[STRIKE]Re-wire inline fuel pump[/STRIKE]
[STRIKE]Fix wiring for alternator (will go into more detail later)[/STRIKE]
Figure out wiring for light circuit (make sure it's not still back-feeding into the ignition)
Go get wheels (yeah I know I said I was going to do this like 2 months ago)
Mount wheels and *slightly* used tires
I'm sure I'll think of and/or find more things.
With the exception of the bedliner in the cab all the rest of the stuff will get the beast
More things off the list!!!
Edit: Need to add clutch master and slave to the list tho...
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #75
Body Work and Paint Tech
So I had been kicking around the idea of painting the truck tan. For a number of reasons (never going to be a DD, getting beat up in the woods, already has a rattle can paint job, etc) I decided that another rattle can job was in order. I had already done some of the trim pieces black and I think black and tan look pretty good. So I stopped by at lunch and picked up a test can.
Here is the result:
The biggest downside I can see right now is that you can now see EVERY dent on the part we painted. I think I can live with it. The end result is going to be a two-tone tan and black. More pics to come!
So I had been kicking around the idea of painting the truck tan. For a number of reasons (never going to be a DD, getting beat up in the woods, already has a rattle can paint job, etc) I decided that another rattle can job was in order. I had already done some of the trim pieces black and I think black and tan look pretty good. So I stopped by at lunch and picked up a test can.
Here is the result:
The biggest downside I can see right now is that you can now see EVERY dent on the part we painted. I think I can live with it. The end result is going to be a two-tone tan and black. More pics to come!
I like it and yes you can see everything, but as you said its gonna get beat up anyway so going this route touch up is easier!
- Thread starter
- #77
- Thread starter
- #78
Progress:
So the plan was to do the flares and upper half of the cab black. Once we started getting some paint on the truck that idea went out. I think the pillars are going to go back tan and the roof white. That will help keep me cool.
So the plan was to do the flares and upper half of the cab black. Once we started getting some paint on the truck that idea went out. I think the pillars are going to go back tan and the roof white. That will help keep me cool.
Lowe Toyota said:
That will look good!
- Thread starter
- #80
A little more progress:
Going to pick up another can of tan and a can of white to do the roof. Will post more pics when done.
Going to pick up another can of tan and a can of white to do the roof. Will post more pics when done.
