Goldbug
SILVER Star
Looks awesome. If you ever need measurements, let me know. Mines a ‘78 and it’s even the right color!
Builds 1978 US Market FJ40 Factory Restoration (8 Viewers)
- Thread starter dmaddox
- Start date
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dmaddox
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #482
After measuring all body mount locations to be on par, checking doors for fitment, tub is back off, and upside down.
Next is to tack up and touch up the rear sill from below, de-burr any drill holes (for emblems, corner markers, etc..) as well as the rest of the tub from the quarter/sill job. (I hope others appreciate the details - I've always liked to pre-drill for emblems before paint, so that the primer/paint, etc.. seal in the hole. Nothing like drilling through fresh paint for an emblem, eh? I'd rather set it up for success at this phase).
Re-sanding all of the prior epoxy primer and preparing for another re-seal of epoxy primer of the entire underside.
I did have to reduce it down quite a bit - it is like gravy as Part A, and Part B doesn't do that much reduction to spray from a 1.8 tip.
Once I have resealed, I will then use 3M caulk to seal the body connections, specifically in the wheel wells and other areas where there was a factory body sealer applied. I have a friend in the auto body world that highly recommended 3M 3808.
Then, the quest of smoothing out the welds and other small issues using a high quality filler and finish putty (Metal Glaze):
Back on the operating table. I am hoping the bottom will be just as spiffy as the rest of the cruiser:
Next is to tack up and touch up the rear sill from below, de-burr any drill holes (for emblems, corner markers, etc..) as well as the rest of the tub from the quarter/sill job. (I hope others appreciate the details - I've always liked to pre-drill for emblems before paint, so that the primer/paint, etc.. seal in the hole. Nothing like drilling through fresh paint for an emblem, eh? I'd rather set it up for success at this phase).
Re-sanding all of the prior epoxy primer and preparing for another re-seal of epoxy primer of the entire underside.
I did have to reduce it down quite a bit - it is like gravy as Part A, and Part B doesn't do that much reduction to spray from a 1.8 tip.
Once I have resealed, I will then use 3M caulk to seal the body connections, specifically in the wheel wells and other areas where there was a factory body sealer applied. I have a friend in the auto body world that highly recommended 3M 3808.
Then, the quest of smoothing out the welds and other small issues using a high quality filler and finish putty (Metal Glaze):
Back on the operating table. I am hoping the bottom will be just as spiffy as the rest of the cruiser:
Curtice
SILVER Star
You are moving fast now! Great to see and looking awesome. I'm in a slog right now, need to get going!
yes ,
its a 3-M product that comes on a roll , it was it every Toyota Dealership service dept. tool room i ever worked
some guys called it " Problem-Solver " ..........
dmaddox
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #487
Based on your description....lol.... is it this?
3M Strip Calk, 08578, Black, 1 ft Strips, 60 per carton Amazon product ASIN B000PEZ1L4
3M Strip Calk, 08578, Black, 1 ft Strips, 60 per carton Amazon product ASIN B000PEZ1L4
i think i have a bit still on a roll down in PARTS Land ....
i will dig it out a bit later and get with you on it .........
i will dig it out a bit later and get with you on it .........
dmaddox
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #489
Not doubting the strips, but factory was clearly applied with a gun of sorts, as some areas are thinner and others thicker/more liberally applied. I think to more closely replicate the factory application and material, a foam-like adhesive caulk would be better suited for the job. Just thinking out loud.
I would think that 3M strip caulk would be perfect. You may not need 60', however!
toyotaboy92
SILVER Star
Just devoured your build... Your attention to detail is fantastic. I love that it is a '78 so I can figure out some questions I have about mine. Keep it up you are almost there!
dmaddox
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #493
Hello all.
I bought the 3M caulk strips and I have to say I am very happy with them. It’s a near perfect match to seal in the blower box.
Ill add that it’s obviously very tacky and wearing rubber gloves is a terrible idea. So, I had to use a plastic weatherstrip tool which not only helped wedge it in, but made quick work of the job.
Reminds me of the reddish brown fix a flat strips. You know? He he he almost same consistency.
While I didn't need to put a larger thickness in the step area on the left side here, this is exactly what the factory application looked like when I removed it, so I am replicating the factory glue bead here:
After fitting it in securely I cleaned up the area and prepared for yet another coat of epoxy primer since I had done quite a bit of work on the rear.
After hitting it with an air nozzle and vacuuming it all out, I wiped it all down with a pre paint and a tack cloth.
Prepping for more primer, exciting.
I bought the 3M caulk strips and I have to say I am very happy with them. It’s a near perfect match to seal in the blower box.
Ill add that it’s obviously very tacky and wearing rubber gloves is a terrible idea. So, I had to use a plastic weatherstrip tool which not only helped wedge it in, but made quick work of the job.
Reminds me of the reddish brown fix a flat strips. You know? He he he almost same consistency.
While I didn't need to put a larger thickness in the step area on the left side here, this is exactly what the factory application looked like when I removed it, so I am replicating the factory glue bead here:
After fitting it in securely I cleaned up the area and prepared for yet another coat of epoxy primer since I had done quite a bit of work on the rear.
After hitting it with an air nozzle and vacuuming it all out, I wiped it all down with a pre paint and a tack cloth.
Prepping for more primer, exciting.
Last edited:
dmaddox
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #494
In the excitement of the project and trying to capitalize on the 70 degree temperature window, I then put the poxy primer in place. Next step (forgot to take a picture of this too, I used 2k Urethane low VOC primer sealer.
I’ll update with the products used. Tonight or tomorrow.
Full disclosure, I had to patch a few areas by welding and sealing in new steel. You can see here prior to priming and cleaning as well as after base clear the areas I patched in new steel for strength and rigidity.
After epoxy and urethane sealer, I cracked into the magical mustard!
I used PPG Deltron DCB base. I sprayed three coats of base coat. It looked great after two, but three coats was the charm, providing a nice rich mustard color.
I’ll also add that this color (I was told after complaining about the high price per quart) is pricey!
Luckily, no runs or issues, and there was also no wind. A great window of weather to paint in. Who needs a full down draft booth (joking of course)? The rest of the cruiser will be painted in a booth.
I’ve been waiting for this moment to use my original touch up paint can! (These details are so cool, I think!)
I know I’m missing details...will update soon!
I’ll update with the products used. Tonight or tomorrow.
Full disclosure, I had to patch a few areas by welding and sealing in new steel. You can see here prior to priming and cleaning as well as after base clear the areas I patched in new steel for strength and rigidity.
After epoxy and urethane sealer, I cracked into the magical mustard!
I used PPG Deltron DCB base. I sprayed three coats of base coat. It looked great after two, but three coats was the charm, providing a nice rich mustard color.
I’ll also add that this color (I was told after complaining about the high price per quart) is pricey!
Luckily, no runs or issues, and there was also no wind. A great window of weather to paint in. Who needs a full down draft booth (joking of course)? The rest of the cruiser will be painted in a booth.
I’ve been waiting for this moment to use my original touch up paint can! (These details are so cool, I think!)
I know I’m missing details...will update soon!
Last edited:
tlaporte
SILVER Star
So awesome to see color on this one, and that looks like a great match to the Mustard Yellow!
Great build!
Great build!
dmaddox
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #500
Rear exhaust heat shields.
Research on the factory application of these is hard. Even the survivors are hosed in undercoating, sprayed black, or the years of heat/road grime has left them just dirty and coated in whatever. What I was able to find is a few lower mile cruisers on a well known mudders' website to confirm their silver color.
Further, when I sanded them down, there was a silver color under the paint (red's, green's and black's) on both heat sheilds:
After sanding down with 40 and 80, I took the dolly's to them to make them nice and straight:
Being heat shields, I decided to use a flat high temp silver coating. Yes, more Eastwood paints. Their standard shipping is next day for me, since they are so close. Further, I've loved their stuff thus far. Not that these will ever see 1400 degrees.
Using my primer gun with a 1.3 tip, reduced with 5% Xylene - on another nice 70 degree lunch hour:
Three coats later:
Research on the factory application of these is hard. Even the survivors are hosed in undercoating, sprayed black, or the years of heat/road grime has left them just dirty and coated in whatever. What I was able to find is a few lower mile cruisers on a well known mudders' website to confirm their silver color.
Further, when I sanded them down, there was a silver color under the paint (red's, green's and black's) on both heat sheilds:
After sanding down with 40 and 80, I took the dolly's to them to make them nice and straight:
Being heat shields, I decided to use a flat high temp silver coating. Yes, more Eastwood paints. Their standard shipping is next day for me, since they are so close. Further, I've loved their stuff thus far. Not that these will ever see 1400 degrees.
Using my primer gun with a 1.3 tip, reduced with 5% Xylene - on another nice 70 degree lunch hour:
Three coats later:
