1975 FJ40 Carburetor / Distributor

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DeskJock

SILVER Star
Joined
Aug 11, 2022
Threads
8
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284
Location
Aliso Viejo
I’m looking to move away from the electronic ignition and Fuel injection, and would like some feedback and sourcing to revert back to OEM and something that is more serviceable. I have owned and maintained several 60’s and 70’s vehicles - very familiar and comfortable with point and condenser and a carburetor.

The setup I have now, was installed by the prev owner in 2018. That setup handles both the Throttle body ( essentially a 1990 Chevy S-10) and distributor ( a modified 1990 3Fe Distributor). The distributor function has failed - and the manufacturer has discontinued that distributor and - I’m not the purchaser- and - it’s out of warranty anyway. Because both are controlled by the same ECU they are essentially inseparable ( Apparently I could to a DUI as it uses the same distributor - not happening )

I would appreciate help in creating a list of items needed to move from what I have to what I want, and sourcing if possible.

The current throttle body does have a gas return.

OEM CARB:

Choke - anything besides the knob and cable needed?

Linkage ( missing?)

Existing Throttle cable work?

Heat shield?

FUEL DELIVERY
Currently what is in place is a fuel pump mounted to the frame behind the passenger seat. At the throttle body it’s running 11 to 12 PSI - too much for a carb, and too little for a modern EFI. It does have a fuel return that is routed thru the throttle body back to the fuel tank.

Mechanical ( anything under the cover that I should specific to check for under the cover?)

Distributor

Plan to go 75 OEM, unless I hear a better solution.

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I don't blame you, I have been stranded by bad brain boxes many times. Only once the arm on the points snapped off in the company truck (if it was mine I would have a spare set of points in the glove box).

My 72 FJ40 came with a Rochester 2bbl and a Delco distributor when I got it in 82. Still the same carb and dizzy. I need to clean the carb and likely need to make a bushing for the dizzy as its getting loose in the shaft. It is straight mechanical advance, no vacuum line. I had to re-grease the accelerator pump leather cup back in the 90's as it was bonded to the sidewall. I also run a header because the cast iron cracked in half about 85.

In the warmer months I run the timing advanced right up to going out of the window, I can't do that in the winter or it will pop back and eat the starter. Anyway I could fill the tank to the cap, drive on the freeway 75 miles then go idle along in second gear for like 50 miles, then back on the freeway to exactly the same gas pump and get 25mpg for the trip.
 
DeskJock, the first things that come to mind are (1) different throttle linkage, and (2) wiring harness issues if you go back to stock. I hate for you to loose all the fuel injection great features, sure would be nice if you could fine tune/trouble shoot what you have now. If you do go back to stock, let me be one of the first to offer to buy what you have now, particularly the air cleaner that we manufactured 1,000 years ago.
 
I’m running an electronic big cap dizzy from an FJ60 that was recurved by Jim C, it’s been a zero maintenance item since it was installed. My carb is from a 76 and has been solid as well although getting there was a story. Here are my threads, no regrets on either. All my 40 does is start and run day in and day out, burns a little gas along the way 😜


 
DeskJock, the first things that come to mind are (1) different throttle linkage, and (2) wiring harness issues if you go back to stock. I hate for you to loose all the fuel injection great features, sure would be nice if you could fine tune/trouble shoot what you have now. If you do go back to stock, let me be one of the first to offer to buy what you have now, particularly the air cleaner that we manufactured 1,000 years ago.
Hello Jim. Loving your skid plate. I suspect you recognized my engine bay from when I slide by a few weeks ago to pickup.

Something happened to the ECU when I replaced the dwell angle pick up in the distributor. The pickup that I replaced fell apart in my hands as I removed it. Tried two different sensors LX579 - no spark.

With the ignition on - there is no power to the LX579.

As to the old parts. Can’t think of a better home for them.
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I don't blame you, I have been stranded by bad brain boxes many times. Only once the arm on the points snapped off in the company truck (if it was mine I would have a spare set of points in the glove box).

My 72 FJ40 came with a Rochester 2bbl and a Delco distributor when I got it in 82. Still the same carb and dizzy. I need to clean the carb and likely need to make a bushing for the dizzy as its getting loose in the shaft. It is straight mechanical advance, no vacuum line. I had to re-grease the accelerator pump leather cup back in the 90's as it was bonded to the sidewall. I also run a header because the cast iron cracked in half about 85.

In the warmer months I run the timing advanced right up to going out of the window, I can't do that in the winter or it will pop back and eat the starter. Anyway I could fill the tank to the cap, drive on the freeway 75 miles then go idle along in second gear for like 50 miles, then back on the freeway to exactly the same gas pump and get 25mpg for the trip.
Ya. Right now. Simple sounds good. And at this point would run better.
 
I’m running an electronic big cap dizzy from an FJ60 that was recurved by Jim C, it’s been a zero maintenance item since it was installed. My carb is from a 76 and has been solid as well although getting there was a story. Here are my threads, no regrets on either. All my 40 does is start and run day in and day out, burns a little gas along the way 😜


Ya. I’ve read your threads. Nice work.

The existing 3Fe distributor has been recurved - If you have pics of of the laving - I’d love to see those.

The existing distributor has a ton of corrosion that I think continues down the staff. That distributor will be replaced.

With that said- I’d be open to a Toyota OEM solution that I can trust and diagnose in the future.

Right now - the carb and distributor are inseparable- ie both need to talk to the brain.
 
im running one of the oe 2f 3f dissys 19100-61180 with pertronix in it and an oe non usa carb
That Pertronix solution looks good me to. And - if I have it right. I can carry points and a condenser as back up. Right?
 
That Pertronix solution looks good me to. And - if I have it right. I can carry points and a condenser as back up. Right?
correct
 
Linkage purchased. Working o the air box.
Pondering several distributor and carbs.

Question on the coil / ballast / igniter.

It doesn’t t appear that an igniter is necessary?

Suggestions on sourcing the coil / ballast?
 
That Pertronix solution looks good me to. And - if I have it right. I can carry points and a condenser as back up. Right?
You certainly can, but in my experience installing and working on pertronix pickups, if you're going to have problems, you'll have them within minutes of starting the engine. If the vehicle makes it out the door, most likely nobody will ever even think about taking off the distributor cap again. It will just work.
Be careful however as to screw depth. Using screws that are too long (often supplied by pertronix) can foul up the mechanical advance. Check carefully the clearances and use your brain and you'll have an extremely reliable ignition pickup.
 
You certainly can, but in my experience installing and working on pertronix pickups, if you're going to have problems, you'll have them within minutes of starting the engine. If the vehicle makes it out the door, most likely nobody will ever even think about taking off the distributor cap again. It will just work.
Be careful however as to screw depth. Using screws that are too long (often supplied by pertronix) can foul up the mechanical advance. Check carefully the clearances and use your brain and you'll have an extremely reliable ignition pickup.
Thank you for the feedback. plan is to go OEM first; Pertronix will be after. thank for the heads up on the screw lengths.
 
@Downey have around 95% of the parts coming; on vacation next week - the project will start at the end of May.

the Manufacture is willing to see if they can repair whatever electrical issue there is; do you want this kit with their inspection or without?
 
I think I'm missing linkage pieces, can I get some feed back. Specifically .. the Bell Crank. the picture with the yellowish background is enroute - does that bar act as a Bell Crank? I've gone thru the FSM, the Toyota site, SOR ... this topic on the Bell crank seems thin.
 

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