Builds 1974 FJ40 Restoration Build Thread
- Thread starter JohnJL
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
I had the same issue with the tight fitting holes, and having to grind the edge off of one spacer.
- The holes are tight on purpose, and are sized to allow the fastener to slide through BEFORE powder coating. When I mentioned this to Tom, he said he does it this way, so that the fasteners need to be threaded in, or perhaps tapped with a hammer, so that they do not get sloppy when the paint wears off from use.
- I texted him some pictures of where the spacer interferes, and how much I had to grind off. He's moving that mounting hole up slightly to eliminate the interference.
- No instructions.....I haven't seen a production kit, so I can't comment, but the kit I bought for my Tundra had pretty basic instructions.
- Good to see that it also fits on a SOA conversion......
You should send an e-mail to SOS, with feedback on the kit. I'm sure Tom would like to hear how it went, and where improvements can be made.
- The holes are tight on purpose, and are sized to allow the fastener to slide through BEFORE powder coating. When I mentioned this to Tom, he said he does it this way, so that the fasteners need to be threaded in, or perhaps tapped with a hammer, so that they do not get sloppy when the paint wears off from use.
- I texted him some pictures of where the spacer interferes, and how much I had to grind off. He's moving that mounting hole up slightly to eliminate the interference.
- No instructions.....I haven't seen a production kit, so I can't comment, but the kit I bought for my Tundra had pretty basic instructions.
- Good to see that it also fits on a SOA conversion......
You should send an e-mail to SOS, with feedback on the kit. I'm sure Tom would like to hear how it went, and where improvements can be made.
- Thread starter
- #167
I plated up some of the motor brackets, bits and bobs.
I also disassembled the intake and exhaust manifolds, both look in good condition with flat mating surfaces. The intake is still all shiny and nice.
The exhaust side needs some cleaning up but is good, except for the exhaust diverter valve. Mine was obviously an attempted repair by a previous owner. The metal flap was the wrong shape and didnt allow it to pivot in the manifold, even if the shaft wasnt frozen, which it was. A PO had tried tack welding an obviously home-made flap of the wrong size onto the shaft.
I read threads here where some owners removed theirs entirely without complaints. Others said they had seen intake manifolds crack as a result of too much heat. I live in the north and have very cold starts, and aesthetically just want it stock. OK, maybe aesthetically isnt the right word since no one will ever see the inside of this again, but I want it "right." My shaft now rotates smoothly in the bore (hehehe) and the weight is secure on the shaft.
My plan is to cut a properly sized flapper and tack it on the right place on the shaft, and use a bi-metal spring available for the same part on an old J**p still available NOS from Summit.
Since mine was obviously wrong, I cannot tell exactly how the flap should be shaped and in what orientation to the weight.
Could someone please post up some pics of their exhaust flapper mechanism, esp the shape and orientation of the flapper?
Thanks!
I also disassembled the intake and exhaust manifolds, both look in good condition with flat mating surfaces. The intake is still all shiny and nice.
The exhaust side needs some cleaning up but is good, except for the exhaust diverter valve. Mine was obviously an attempted repair by a previous owner. The metal flap was the wrong shape and didnt allow it to pivot in the manifold, even if the shaft wasnt frozen, which it was. A PO had tried tack welding an obviously home-made flap of the wrong size onto the shaft.
I read threads here where some owners removed theirs entirely without complaints. Others said they had seen intake manifolds crack as a result of too much heat. I live in the north and have very cold starts, and aesthetically just want it stock. OK, maybe aesthetically isnt the right word since no one will ever see the inside of this again, but I want it "right." My shaft now rotates smoothly in the bore (hehehe) and the weight is secure on the shaft.
My plan is to cut a properly sized flapper and tack it on the right place on the shaft, and use a bi-metal spring available for the same part on an old J**p still available NOS from Summit.
Since mine was obviously wrong, I cannot tell exactly how the flap should be shaped and in what orientation to the weight.
Could someone please post up some pics of their exhaust flapper mechanism, esp the shape and orientation of the flapper?
Thanks!
thebigredrocker
SILVER Star
thebigredrocker
SILVER Star
John, Here’s a link to some heat control valve pictures—> Manifold Heat Control Valve??
thebigredrocker
SILVER Star
I searched for the answer to your Marlin seal question. @BigMike @Weber Sarge or @cruiseroutfit might know which direction is correct
- Thread starter
- #173
Thanks guys, and Happy Holidays.
I cut the old mess of a flapper off, cleaned up the shaft and made up a new flapper. Tacked it in place ...then degreased the whole thing, preppd and when dry wil try the POR Manifold Grey paint. Pic is with the flapper in place but not tacked. Those are minimagnets holding it in place while I tacked it.
I cut the old mess of a flapper off, cleaned up the shaft and made up a new flapper. Tacked it in place ...then degreased the whole thing, preppd and when dry wil try the POR Manifold Grey paint. Pic is with the flapper in place but not tacked. Those are minimagnets holding it in place while I tacked it.
- Thread starter
- #174
Good guess, and I do have those mirrors. I only have 2 of these though, and the bolt heads stay "Tuff Torq Lawson."
- Thread starter
- #176
- Thread starter
- #177
Tons more done today...intake manifold cleaned up, heads on, sensors in, center arm disassambled, valve train in...I also cracked my thermostat housing removing one of the bolts. And buggered a thread on the center arm pressing out the shaft...
I am struggling with recollection of this port on the engine block. I have to say, how the F@@K does the "Factory Service Manual" for the 1F motor get published without a single external diagram? Or internal one for that matter. The manual refers to "connect the oil tube" and "stake the external flange star nut" but dosnt contain a single illustration or diagram of said components?
Here is the thing I am currently struggling with...here is a before pic of the motor after pulling it:
Here are a few pics of th same fitting after returning from the machine shop. You can see there is an 8mm hole on the underside of the fitting. It looks from the "before" pit that perhaps a bolt was just blocking it off? What is the correct OEM fitting?
Thanks
I am struggling with recollection of this port on the engine block. I have to say, how the F@@K does the "Factory Service Manual" for the 1F motor get published without a single external diagram? Or internal one for that matter. The manual refers to "connect the oil tube" and "stake the external flange star nut" but dosnt contain a single illustration or diagram of said components?
Here is the thing I am currently struggling with...here is a before pic of the motor after pulling it:
Here are a few pics of th same fitting after returning from the machine shop. You can see there is an 8mm hole on the underside of the fitting. It looks from the "before" pit that perhaps a bolt was just blocking it off? What is the correct OEM fitting?
Thanks
thebigredrocker
SILVER Star
View looking down
From under
I saved the micrfiche from Coolermans site to iBooks on my iPhone. Nice to have cached. Decent parts breakdowns.
From under
I saved the micrfiche from Coolermans site to iBooks on my iPhone. Nice to have cached. Decent parts breakdowns.
- Thread starter
- #179
