Builds 1974 FJ40 Restoration Build Thread

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Found that brass plug in the bottom of a ziplock bag with the old pressure sensor. Thanks again BRR!

More done yesterday/today.

1. Manifolds cleaned up. Intake polished up, exhaust painted in POR High Temp Manifold Grey
2. Fittings replated and installed in the manifolds
3. Head installed
4. Cracked my thermostat taking it apart, new one on order.
5. Knuckles completely R&R'd including blasted, POR'd, fittings replated, and dry-assembled to ensure I have all the new seals and bolts on hand (turns out it is exceptionally hard to find M10 1.25TP x 25mm bolts for the spindle-knuckle attachment locally.)
6. Brake fittings R&R's, soft lines run.
7. Mock-installed the front disk brake calipers and rotors to check for fit...all good!
8. Broken stud in hub drilled out and saved without needing a time-cert ....yeah!
9. Center arm disassembled. I buggered up the top thread with my puller while removing the arm...spent 3 hours hand-filing the threads again to get the threaded cap to thread again.
10. Laid out and measured all the tie rod item. Upon closer look my tie rods themselves are not refinishable, ordered new ones along with all new ends and up to the drag link and a rebuild kit for that too.

So now I urgently need a knuckle shim measuring tool...have posted in classifieds...

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I followed up on an earlier suggestion about the metal fans...reading the threads have scared me into switching over to a plastic fan. I will sift through those threads and find the right part, I recall seeing mention of SOR, Profitts and others carrying alternatives.

Since that can of worms is now open, I am also rethinking going to an electric fan. The motor is a stock F155 rebuild and the stock radiator/shroud is in amazing shape so I want to retain that. This truck will definately see high water, and will have a dual battery system, leading me to consider an electric fan with a cabin override switch. All the wiring is new and I am building the harness so I can make adjustments to accommodate the right gauges, relays and connectors.

Am I on the right track there?

Gratuitous pics...

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A few parts shipments arrived and progress proceeded...front steering and suspension almost all together, rear all done.
- Toyota disc brakes front and rear
- New Tie rods and ends
- REbuilt center arm
- Rebuilt relay and pitman
- Fj60 hubs, knuckles and arms all stripped and rebuilt
- New bearings, knuckle caps, studs, hardware, gaskets, plates, seals, etc

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Front axle and steering is mostly together. I found my wheels do not clear the toyota calipers by 3mm. I am contemplating a 3mm spacer and if needed, longer studs. I have no idea what these wheels are. The tires are way out of date, but I will replace them with something of similar size. I dont know if these wheels are garbage and need the bin, or if they are decent quality. I dont mind how they look, I know thats a personal taste. If I keep them I will paint them dark charcoal. The tub is Freeborn Red. Any idea what these wheels are?

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The yellow paint is where the caliper hits the rim. I need 3.5mm minimum more clearance, either with a spacer or new wheels...

Sorry I cant figure out how to change the order of the pics...

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Wheels kind of look like American Racing AR625185
Outlaw II

If so, pretty cheap at $140 canadian...

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I got these full loaded calipers from a trusted vendor here. I then ordered the braided lines from Spectre. However, the brake fitting bottoms out in the caliper about 4mm too shallow and the included copper washers dont seat on the caliper. Any guesses? Can I bottom the fitting in the caliper even if the washer isnt seated between the fitting head and the caliper body?

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Any help on the brake fittings, ok or no?
I'll reply just to bump the thread and maybe get you a real answer from someone that knows, but that would scare the hell out of me knowing that my front brake lines weren't held by the surface friction between the fitting and the caliper. Seems like it could easily loosen or leak under vibration over time.
 
I'll reply just to bump the thread and maybe get you a real answer from someone that knows, but that would scare the hell out of me knowing that my front brake lines weren't held by the surface friction between the fitting and the caliper. Seems like it could easily loosen or leak under vibration over time.
X2 since it could only be bottomed out on the cylinder itself, which once it moves it would leak instantly. If you can chase the threads you could shorten it to work. Any idea what it’s bottoming on?
 
Hi guys. Here are the requested brake line and caliper fittings. It seems a rather brutal solution but could I just cut 6mm off the end of the flexible line's male fitting so the copper washer seals on the head of the fitting and caliper? I notice that caliper fitting surface is cast, not machined. Will a copper fitting seal on a rough cast seal like that? These were expensive Toyota calipers from a vendor here and so are the lines. Its always something...thanks for the help!

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It looks like it Seats inside the caliper.
Looking at the outside of the caliper the washer will not work for sealing as there is no seating area for it.
The picture of the inside is not clear but it looks like the it will seal with the brake hose connection.
 
Pretty sure the flare is what seals at the caliper. Here’s my stock 76 caliper with hardline from the backing plate junction. Does your soft line flare nut look compatible with the caliper flare? Ran across a thread the other day dicussing running soft lines to caliper when using backing plate eliminators from Mark’s Off-Road. Sounded like folks use some sort of “strain relief” for the soft line.:meh: Are you running without backing plates?
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Anyone have success with this on the exhaust pipe and muffler? It came out real nice on the exhaust manifold and tins, hope it holds up...

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