Builds 1974 FJ40 Restoration Build Thread
- Thread starter JohnJL
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- Thread starter
- #202
Sorry I missed your note...yes I am runnng without backing plates but I did find lines that work.Pretty sure the flare is what seals at the caliper. Here’s my stock 76 caliper with hardline from the backing plate junction. Does your soft line flare nut look compatible with the caliper flare? Ran across a thread the other day dicussing running soft lines to caliper when using backing plate eliminators from Mark’s Off-Road. Sounded like folks use some sort of “strain relief” for the soft line.Are you running without backing plates?
thebigredrocker
SILVER Star
just now saw this. I used that on a set of new sbc ramhorns. Pretty sure my timing was initially waaay off which caused the paint to flake. I'll be curious to hear your experience.
Not sure if you got a direct answer on this or not but the brake lines you have look to be correct for the caliper and the brass washer is not designed to seal on that sort of caliper setup. The copper washer does not below on a flared fitting. The way you have it bottoming out is correct as long as the flare in the end of the fitting matches the one in the caliper which is looks to.
The copper washer would only be used if it was a machined surface on the caliper and usually on a banjo and not a swivel fitting or tapered base. The copper washer should not have been supplied.
Anyway, you probably have them sorted by now just thought I would respond in case there was any doubt left in your mind.
Sweet build she is coming along, I hope the Porsche doesn't get jealous
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Your rollcage and AL tub look great.
On the frt knuckle pics, the M12 knuckle hardware is a little mixed up. Some of the nuts are upside down, and the washers on top of the taper-locs (cone washers) should be hardened & ground flatwasher, but some are split lockwashers which go on the bottom of the knuckle.
On the frt knuckle pics, the M12 knuckle hardware is a little mixed up. Some of the nuts are upside down, and the washers on top of the taper-locs (cone washers) should be hardened & ground flatwasher, but some are split lockwashers which go on the bottom of the knuckle.
- Thread starter
- #207
Thanks I will fix those.Your rollcage and AL tub look great.
On the frt knuckle pics, the M12 knuckle hardware is a little mixed up. Some of the nuts are upside down, and the washers on top of the taper-locs (cone washers) should be hardened & ground flatwasher, but some are split lockwashers which go on the bottom of the knuckle.
thebigredrocker
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- Joined
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Comment in wrong build thread. Can’t delete.
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Nothing sad at all in watching a fellow cruiser guy build his truck the way he wants.
- Thread starter
- #215
Not sure yet. May paint or piwdercoat them dark grey or black.
- Thread starter
- #216
Lots of tinkering but not ready for an update yet...except I came across this pic of my Dad and I in about 1988...check out our 1985 FJ60 in the background. This was on the annual spring trip up to Maine for the summer...
- Thread starter
- #217
Hahaha another one. This must have been from the year before, 1986 or 1987. Notice the different load in the Widget, and shiny paint...
The Family knows this car as "The Blueberry." My High School and University friends came to know it as "The Rolling Felony"
The Family knows this car as "The Blueberry." My High School and University friends came to know it as "The Rolling Felony"
- Thread starter
- #218
Seeking some advice on a persistent backfiring and idle vacuum issue. Perhaps related, not sure.
The motor is freshly rebuilt as shown earlier in the thread. I am getting ~7" vacuum at a steady 700 idle. It starts "on the button" and the wideband AFR gauge shows it idling warm at ~14. Ignition timing at idle is 13 degrees. I checked with my old vacuum gauge, then ordered a new one and got the same. Smoke machine test to 15psi showed no leaks. Intake/exhaust manifold and block planed flat with new gasket.
Performed a leakdown, I get 5% at every cylinder except 3 which was 7%. Compression 140-145 cold. Intake lash 0.010", exhaust 0.012". Delta "something special" cam, I forget what they call it.
If it weren't for the low vacuum and violent backfiring off-throttle coasting I would be happy. I suspected an exhaust leak was cuasing the backfiring and I hated the exhaust sound so I put in a magnaflow (I like it!) and welded up/properly clamped and finished the exhaust. The backfiring is still there, just much quieter than the OEM muffler I had on there before. I also suspected backpressure was a problem before, but that is certainly not the cause now.
Help!
And because everyone likes pics....
The motor is freshly rebuilt as shown earlier in the thread. I am getting ~7" vacuum at a steady 700 idle. It starts "on the button" and the wideband AFR gauge shows it idling warm at ~14. Ignition timing at idle is 13 degrees. I checked with my old vacuum gauge, then ordered a new one and got the same. Smoke machine test to 15psi showed no leaks. Intake/exhaust manifold and block planed flat with new gasket.
Performed a leakdown, I get 5% at every cylinder except 3 which was 7%. Compression 140-145 cold. Intake lash 0.010", exhaust 0.012". Delta "something special" cam, I forget what they call it.
If it weren't for the low vacuum and violent backfiring off-throttle coasting I would be happy. I suspected an exhaust leak was cuasing the backfiring and I hated the exhaust sound so I put in a magnaflow (I like it!) and welded up/properly clamped and finished the exhaust. The backfiring is still there, just much quieter than the OEM muffler I had on there before. I also suspected backpressure was a problem before, but that is certainly not the cause now.
Help!
And because everyone likes pics....
thebigredrocker
SILVER Star
