1973 brake issues (1 Viewer)

[charliemeyer007]

Good grease is real "red rubber grease" that's the stuff that is lubricating the cups in the wheel cylinder and the seals in the MC until they are wet with brake fluid. Regular grease will swell the seals and ruin them. Generally back in the day the only thing you could have have in the brake system while say honing the cylinder bore were the correct brake fluid, ethanol or red rubber grease.

The 2 person bleed method will work fine with the crappy fit bleed screws they have these days. Clamping old rubber brake lines seems like asking for them to fail, new ones might be a lot more forgiving because they aren't brittle yet.

Oh and I really like my Toyota brake spoon from City Racer, was expensive for what it is but it does work in the confined space. I wish it was a little wider so it would center itself in the slot - I weld it when I get a welder for the body work.

 

[charliemeyer007]

Well that looks like a breather for an axle to me. Maybe someone ruined the "T" fitting and field repaired the system by using a 4 way and a solder closed vent as the plug.

 

[WyoMike]

Well that looks like a breather for an axle to me. Maybe someone ruined the "T" fitting and field repaired the system by using a 4 way and a solder closed vent as the plug.

It’s in the brake line coming from the MC. Feeds into this device and splits off to left and right rear wheels.

 

[WyoMike]

Another major question/decision, do I start over, pull the MC, bench bleed, reinstall and start over? Is it worth it at this point?

Also, I did adjust the pushrod using the appropriate tool.

 

[Shark56]

What exactly is this:
View attachment 3710706
This looks like a potential source of air bubbles. There are no leaks around it at all. Just curious if it could be letting air in?

Splitter for the brakes that also serves as the holder for the axle breather. The axle breather tube just screws into a hole through the brake splitter.

 

[nabbasi]

What exactly is this:
View attachment 3710706
This looks like a potential source of air bubbles. There are no leaks around it at all. Just curious if it could be letting air in?

This is the stock tee fitting. soft (rubber) line from frame to this fitting, then right to pass. Side and left to driver. Instead of a standard bolt, it’s the axle breather.

If there’s not fluid, this isn’t likely an issue.

 

[B y r o n]

You can do the master cylinder bleed in the car if you have someone to pump the brakes. Otherwise, yes, pull it, bleed it, remount and go through the brake bleed process again.

 

[Engineer8000]

Wear safety glasses when bench bleeding the MC, that fluid comes screaming out of there.

 

[nabbasi]

Another major question/decision, do I start over, pull the MC, bench bleed, reinstall and start over? Is it worth it at this point?

Also, I did adjust the pushrod using the appropriate tool.

If this were a system other than brakes, I’d say push on, however, for safety’s sake, I’d either attempt to bleed in the car or go ahead and pull it and bench bleed. You don’t want an air bubble instead of fluid going into the lines causing a useless/ soft pedal and impeding stopping.

 

[Pighead]

I’d either attempt to bleed in the car or go ahead and pull it and bench bleed.

You can bench bleed a MC on the firewall of the vehicle...

 

[WyoMike]

Splitter for the brakes that also serves as the holder for the axle breather. The axle breather tube just screws into a hole through the brake splitter.

Thanks didn’t know that.

 

[WyoMike]

Okay bleeding the MC is next. Then I will bleed the system again. Better safe then sorry.

 

[WyoMike]

Where do I buy a male m9 barb fitting to fit the outlets of the MC to bench bleed? Or am I missing the little trick to make this work? What does everyone else use?

 

[charliemeyer007]

I just use the "adapter units that came with the mighty-vac. You could just melt the hose or a plastic barb and just jam it in - Its not like you are building pressure.

 

[WyoMike]

I just use the "adapter units that came with the mighty-vac. You could just melt the hose or a plastic barb and just jam it in - Its not like you are building pressure.

Good point thanks!

 

[Green Bean]

Should not a source of air into the closed brake system. Rather, that is the breather cap for the axel. The Toyota engineers just decided to combine the mounting with the Tee junction for the brake lines.

 

[Grayscale]

The Haynes manual suggests that if you don't have bleed nipple(s) integral to the master cylinder, than you commence at the wheel cylinder further from the master cylinder. I skipped bench bleeding, or ran out of fluid in the master cylinder, then I simply bled all the fluid that is mixed with air bubbles out of the system. Kind of like the clutch master cylinder, I just skipped it, and I seem to always bleed it too much (not so much for the big old reservoir on the Cruiser, but the other car) and spend more time bleeding, and way more fresh fluid on the project. A used line that goes between the cylinders on the rear drums works perfect for bench-bleeding.

Basically, if the fluid runs solid, and not bubbly, I'm good. However, the hydraulic fittings and metal lines are available at the auto store, and bending them is done with a special pair of pliers that I bought cheap, you also get to practice flaring them, a good set of skills to have in the future.

 

[igotta40]

What exactly is this:
View attachment 3710706
This looks like a potential source of air bubbles. There are no leaks around it at all. Just curious if it could be letting air in?

Air vent. They are on the axles, transmission & transfer case. Unrelated to the brakes.

 

[igotta40]

All the years CCOT has been around and they still don’t know Jack s*** about Land Cruiser brakes.

 

[73FJ40]

Unless the picture of the new MC in post 1 is distorted, that MC looks like it was designed to angle upwards, with the caps on the reservoirs level.

Does it need to be bled with the front end positioned upward?