1970 FJ40 Project (3 Viewers)

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USOffRoad

Supporting Vendor
Joined
Nov 25, 2013
Threads
183
Messages
857
Location
Hico, Texas
Website
www.usoffroad.us
Well...here I go again. I swore 'no more projects'...yeah. A September of 1969 build. However, this one is a runner, kinda. Picked this up out of La Grange (where it's too damn hot). The PO did partial quarters, rear sill and patched the rockers, corrosion is minimal (for a 40) as it was acquired by him out of Phoenix. This was originally Judson Green as some PO further back painted it the odd plum color (naming it Plum Bob as it's a simple tool...yeah I know 'plumb') with a hard top and 3 spd floor shift. It runs but has a nasty exhaust manifold leak.

Pros:
Mostly original with little corrosion
Partial quarters, sill and rockers replaced
New roof cap
Wilwood discs F&R..no power brakes.
New brake/clutch reservoirs.
All good glass
Most all components/pieces are there
Can be a driving resto/project
Has been converted to Weber
Newer aluminum radiator
Vacuum actuator still works for the tcase...is that a pro?
I actually received two working keys, for once, and all locks work front to rear, even have the keyhole covers intact! It's the little things that excite me.

Cons/Needs:
Needs paint as it's now some sort of plum color over Judson (not even a coat of primer) with some store bought bedliner over the recent rust repairs.
Seats are shot but rear seats are complete
Suspension and steering are shot
Steering (more like suggestive directional control) needs the full monty
Engine and Weber carb are all leaking
Exhaust manifold leak...big time.
Dash gauges are shot, PO installed oil/temp gauges and horn button on dash.
Steering wheel is cracked but not terrible, needs restoration.

So...here's the plan.

Needs a good power washing first.
Exhaust/intake are coming off, see if the manifold is cracked, if not getting them resurfaced then doing Remflex gaskets and full studs.
Rebuild the Weber so the fuel will go in the manifold instead of on it. (amazingly it starts up easily)
Full tune up, wires, plugs, cap...see if it still has points inside, convert to Pertronix?
Send the dash cluster off to @JVZii for overhaul and remove the external gauges mounted on the dash panel.
Send off the steering wheel for a refurb and get the horn button working again so I can remove the external button from the dash.
Pull the valve cover (I may have a 2F cover here somewhere) to coat and reseal, radiator shroud/mount, air cleaner assembly, grille, bezel and all of the interior panels, etc for powder coating.
Install some ProComp 2.5" leafs, bushings and shackles with Bilsteins so it doesn't bounce down the road.
Put some steelies on it with some tall skinny tires
Install one of our new @USOffRoad winch bumpers with an 8274
Cut off the heep nerf bars that are welded to the frame and install the new running boards that are still in (very old) OEM boxes in the back.
Recover the seats and do some seat extenders so I can get some leg room.
...and whatever else will most certainly need attention.

Then and only then can I consider paint and body...

It's a good builder for sure, one of the cleaner frames and tubs I've seen in a long time. It's all there, just needs lots of attention.

Here's a few pics.

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I love the bumperettes with the added 'crumple zone'. Usually, the only 'crumple zone' on an FJ40 is whatever you hit.

That's a sharp truck with a ton of potential. You might consider a TBI/EFI setup, instead of putting too much effort into the Weber. With the temps in Texas, you will need a plan to overcome vapor lock and hot soak.
 
I've been waiting on someone to notice the bumperettes...I was thinking maybe a gas burner underneath...bumper grilles...burgers on the run. I'll be replacing them.

I may look at FI...Sniper..etc later. When it gets hot in Texas it does so in a big way... 106 today...110 tomorrow and you can bet my fat ass won't be in a vehicle with no AC...so the 40 is safe for now.
 
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I’ve seen where some folks have done that sort of thing to the bumperettes to make them a bit safer as steps. Those Texas temps, 🥵 I think Houston is looking at 115 today or tomorrow. We’re 41 right now, might make it to 60 🥶, so heater needed here for this fat 🫏 😂.
 
I’ve seen where some folks have done that sort of thing to the bumperettes to make them a bit safer as steps. Those Texas temps, 🥵 I think Houston is looking at 115 today or tomorrow. We’re 41 right now, might make it to 60 🥶, so heater needed here for this fat 🫏 😂.
I'll pay you to ship some of that cooler air to Houston...
 
So... I think I'm going to thin my herd and sell my 98 4Runner 5 speed. I have a brand new set of Method NV 17" with 33" Generals on the 4R that also match the setup on my M101A2 trailer....which kinda takes me down a more restomod path. I'm a big fan of Methods (and a dealer) and as these are brand new me thinks I'm going to do a swap and put these on my 40...which will also require spacers. I have some Spydertrax spacers on the way to do this along with some ProComp 2.5" springs and Bilstein shocks.

A different path than I envisioned but we'll see how it all pans out.

IMG_20220126_174750113_HDR.jpg
 
I really like my Pro-Comp springs. They ride much better than my OME 2.5 springs.
 
I really like my Pro-Comp springs. They ride much better than my OME 2.5 springs.
I've heard that from quite a few folks and as I'm a huge Bilstein fan I'll almost always go with those. Seems to be a decent combo in the ride department. It burned my ass but I bought the other set off of Ebay as my WD's weren't giving me any good news but at least I got them coming.
 
Hopefully the neverending 105+ heat is breaking soon and I'll be rolling this thing in the shop to get started.

I did however score me a 2F long block for future use, picking up next weekend.

Still fighting going more original or slight restomod... decisions
 
Well...that was a rather unpleasant Summer. Lots of 105-109 and finally broke today.

So, I found something that I thought might come in handy. 1975 2F with some extra goodies that might be useful later.

Supposedly a good runner but had leaks and was swapped out for a rebuilt 2F. I'll know more when I crack it open but from what I could see it looked good and didn't smell of spun mains, etc. Maybe later this week I'll get the head off and run a dial bore gauge in the cylinders, check valve guides, get a mic on a rod journal, etc.

crate.jpg


2F engine.jpg


2f engine etc.jpg
 
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Well...here I go again. I swore 'no more projects'...yeah. A September of 1969 build. However, this one is a runner, kinda. Picked this up out of La Grange (where it's too damn hot). The PO did partial quarters, rear sill and patched the rockers, corrosion is minimal (for a 40) as it was acquired by him out of Phoenix. This was originally Judson Green as some PO further back painted it the odd plum color (naming it Plum Bob as it's a simple tool...yeah I know 'plumb') with a hard top and 3 spd floor shift. It runs but has a nasty exhaust manifold leak.

Pros:
Mostly original with little corrosion
Partial quarters, sill and rockers replaced
New roof cap
Wilwood discs F&R..no power brakes.
New brake/clutch reservoirs.
All good glass
Most all components/pieces are there
Can be a driving resto/project
Has been converted to Weber
Newer aluminum radiator
Vacuum actuator still works for the tcase...is that a pro?
I actually received two working keys, for once, and all locks work front to rear, even have the keyhole covers intact! It's the little things that excite me.

Cons/Needs:
Needs paint as it's now some sort of plum color over Judson (not even a coat of primer) with some store bought bedliner over the recent rust repairs.
Seats are shot but rear seats are complete
Suspension and steering are shot
Steering (more like suggestive directional control) needs the full monty
Engine and Weber carb are all leaking
Exhaust manifold leak...big time.
Dash gauges are shot, PO installed oil/temp gauges and horn button on dash.
Steering wheel is cracked but not terrible, needs restoration.

So...here's the plan.

Needs a good power washing first.
Exhaust/intake are coming off, see if the manifold is cracked, if not getting them resurfaced then doing Remflex gaskets and full studs.
Rebuild the Weber so the fuel will go in the manifold instead of on it. (amazingly it starts up easily)
Full tune up, wires, plugs, cap...see if it still has points inside, convert to Pertronix?
Send the dash cluster off to @JVZii for overhaul and remove the external gauges mounted on the dash panel.
Send off the steering wheel for a refurb and get the horn button working again so I can remove the external button from the dash.
Pull the valve cover (I may have a 2F cover here somewhere) to coat and reseal, radiator shroud/mount, air cleaner assembly, grille, bezel and all of the interior panels, etc for powder coating.
Install some ProComp 2.5" leafs, bushings and shackles with Bilsteins so it doesn't bounce down the road.
Put some steelies on it with some tall skinny tires
Install one of our new @USOffRoad winch bumpers with an 8274
Cut off the heep nerf bars that are welded to the frame and install the new running boards that are still in (very old) OEM boxes in the back.
Recover the seats and do some seat extenders so I can get some leg room.
...and whatever else will most certainly need attention.

Then and only then can I consider paint and body...

It's a good builder for sure, one of the cleaner frames and tubs I've seen in a long time. It's all there, just needs lots of attention.

Here's a few pics.

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hey Brad, Just saw the photo of your engine bay and it looks like the carburetor is a weber. I am trying to use an FJ air cleaner with my weber. I need the adaptor. Any idea where I can find one? Thanks. Rod W. shakerj279@aol.com I am a novice at using this site. 1h8mud
 
I didn't install it but probably something like this: Stock Air Filter Adapter - Weber - FJ40, FJ45, FJ55 1969-1974 - https://cruisercorps.com/products/stock-air-filter-adapter-weber

I'll be pulling the manifolds first to have them resurfaced, while doing so the Weber will get a full rebuild as it's leaking more than is getting in the engine.

The 40 is headed in to the shop later today, busy moving stored 'stuff' out of my shop in to a 40' container....then the fun begins.

I also think I'm going with the Skyjacker 4" Softride springs now along with my Bilsteins.
L40RS
L40FS

These Bilsteins should cover up to 4" of lift and I have these on the shelf.

BIL33-185606 Front
BIL33-185552 Rear
 
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Thanks Brad, Spent most of a very rainy day researching same. Have a line on the adapter and have an inquiry in to a vendor. (Probably one you mentioned.) I am awaiting a notification of an invite only show in Aventura , FL high end show. (Motorcar Cavalcade) Considering a rather ambitious February road trip (trailered) from upstate NY. And yes, most think I am crazy. They may be correct. I doubt if I will attempt the air cleaner conversion before that trip. I would probably get into a mess.
 
Well... almost 2 years later and not much has been done.

Had other projects and blah blah life. I've been winding down US Off Road so I finally get a tad bit of extra time to work on MY stuff. Sold off my 98 4Runner and pulled the basically new Methods and Generals (which also match my M101A2) and got them mounted, took some 1.5" Spidertrax spacers, could probably go with 1" (4.75" BS) but for now I just wanted it on the ground....and... in my shop, finally. It's not like she's going anywhere soon.

She's a mess... will unload some extra parts from the back tomorrow and take inventory of other 40 parts I have on hand. Will start pulling carb/intake/exhaust and various covers, fan shroud, etc etc for cleanup and powder coating in addition to surfacing the manifolds (Remflex gaskets on hand) and seeing about the Weber. Probably do a compression check before I do anything. If that checks out then I'll go from there.

Lipstick on a pig for now... but progress of sorts.

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