1970 FJ40 Idle Issues

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Joined
Feb 14, 2013
Messages
1,049
Location
Wake Forest, NC
Hi All -

Wondering if someone can point me in the right direction on some idle issues?

I have a '70 FJ40 completely stock including originally vacuum switching valve. The vehicle will get down to the 700 rpm range, but the choke pull is about 1/4 of the way out. When I push the choke pull completely in, the vehicle dies.

1) Replaced and cleaned the fuel idle solenoid which did not seem to make a difference;
2) There do not appear to be any vacuum leaks (vacuum lines are hooked up and new, no leaks around carb via carb spray);
3) Carb is rebuilt.

Wondering if someone can point me in the right direction before I pull the carb off and rebuild it again. I know the choke cable and carb attachment on these allows for adjustment (it is just two bolts that clamp the inner and outer choke cable). Is there a good way to set this up (i.e. ensure the choke cable is connected at the carb correctly)?

Thanks for any help
 
Screw in idle speed adjustment till it idles. Route vacuum line under throttle plates to choke pull off (ancient emission computer could be broke). Adjust idle mixture (look for post splaining procedure)
Set timing to 10 degrees BTDC. Almost impossible to incorrectly adjust choke.
 
If your 40 is completely stock then I believe you should have a vacuum retard dizzy. I've read where FJ40jim advised folks to cap off the vac line to the retard dizzy and bump advance to 10 degrees. If you haven't checked your valve adjustment that might be something to look into.
 
If your 40 is completely stock then I believe you should have a vacuum retard dizzy. I've read where FJ40jim advised folks to cap off the vac line to the retard dizzy and bump advance to 10 degrees. If you haven't checked your valve adjustment that might be something to look into.
I also have a 70 with a vac retard dizzy. Is removing the vac explained somewhere? Ive been searching and have found a lot of threads saying to do it, but not a ton on why.
 
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