Builds 1970 FatherSonJ40 project (2 Viewers)

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All wheels are mounted with extended lug nuts and they handle noticeably better. I’m thrilled with the look. In fact they’re so much smoother running now I can really feel a driveline vibration above 2k rpm’s in all gears!

Also had my dad help me get the cage in, I think it looks so awesome and my boys are thrilled to have the 40 back on the road!

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Really digging the new wheels and cage, but damn now I can really feel a harmonic vibration above 2k rpms. It doesn’t change if I’m sitting still, clutch in or clutch out. New motor mounts are on the way, as mine are in bad shape all around. Really hope that’s it. Part of me really feels like it’s clutch/flywheels related, but who knows. One thing at a time.

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Got any steep long grades in your area - roll down it with engine off in neutral tranny, then again with transfer in neutral.

Flywheel bolts can come loose, usually from not using locking tabs or loctite. Clutch bolts getting loose or not mounted correctly as in flat due to crud.
 
Got any steep long grades in your area - roll down it with engine off in neutral tranny, then again with transfer in neutral.

Flywheel bolts can come loose, usually from not using locking tabs or loctite. Clutch bolts getting loose or not mounted correctly as in flat due to crud.
I do and can do that. What does each step tell me though?
 
The engine is off so the fly wheel isn't moving. With the T/T in neutral you are isolating the units that could influence vibrations up to the clutch/pressure plate. Engine mounts are most likely the issue but it doesn't hurt to test the other components, especially when it free and only takes a few minutes.
 
The engine is off so the fly wheel isn't moving. With the T/T in neutral you are isolating the units that could influence vibrations up to the clutch/pressure plate. Engine mounts are most likely the issue but it doesn't hurt to test the other components, especially when it free and only takes a few minutes.
Gotcha, yes that makes sense! I’ll give that a go and report back.
 
Spent most of the day today replacing the engine and transmission mounts, which were all in terrible shape. Much worse than I initially thought. I’m happy to report that after doing so, the harmonic vibration is…..completely unchanged. Whaaa whaa.

I did some coasting down hill with the engine off and no vibration. It does not change if I’m moving or sitting still. Is at the same RPM in all three gears. Clutch in or out does not matter. So it’s got to be clutch forward. The engine runs really strong for a 1F and particularly once warm does not have any misfires or stumbling, so I really really think it’s flywheels or clutch. Uhg. I really don’t want to do another project on this drivetrain when I’m just eventually going to yank for the diesel and h55… but that also seems very far off given I neeed to get my Alfa running and in tip shape so I have something fun to drive in the meantime… no sympathy for the man with the toys…

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After speaking with Justin at Redline Landcruisers about availability to do a. clutch replacement, he gave me a brain wave about my harmonic vibration- the balancer. I pulled the belts off, as neither of them look particularly straight, and I'll be damned it the beltless motor doesn't run smooth as glass.... It appears that my alternator pulley is off from the balancer pulley, which sucks as the way it's mounted I don't really see much of a way to adjust it. I ordered a laser alignment tool from "hog slat" for $20, so we'll see. If anyone has any other tricks that dont involve a super expensive laser, I'm all ears.
 
further analysis has revealed that it is my power steering pump that is out of alignment. the bracket I have just has too much play in too many directions. what a frustration the whole power steering endeavor has been and continues to be! Mine has play at the mounting point on the head, and on the bolt that acts as the swivel point, so it appears, using a long straight edge, that it is out of alignment on two different axes. uhg.
 

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