If you aren’t in a super rush I’ll have my 40 going soon and it’ll need a small road trip for break in.
If you need it sooner reach out and we will make it happen. Ill post a picture of what I have today when I get to the house
Builds 1969 FJ40 named Mavis (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter 120mm
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
If you aren’t in a super rush I’ll have my 40 going soon and it’ll need a small road trip for break in.
If you need it sooner reach out and we will make it happen. Ill post a picture of what I have today when I get to the house
- Thread starter
- #1,222
I don't really need the drivers side window until fall-ish. I'm taking both doors off and restoring all the rubber bits and felts. Digging the idea of a meet up.
We will make it happen
- Thread starter
- #1,224
Sunday morning, doing work picking up pastries for church. Had to do a deep clean to remove all traces of Zeus. Thank God for Kennel Sol.
prwillard2
SILVER Star
It's stuff like this that makes me love both this forum and other LC owners.We will make it happen
- Thread starter
- #1,226
So, back to working on this rig.
I received my Dakota Digital instrument cluster, and am chewing my way through the instructions. Right away, I found an issue.
The instructions state to solder the main power and ground wires together, and leave them.
Then you need to find a 12V source and a ground.
Why would you destroy the existing 12V source and existing ground to replace them with another 12V source and ground?
I received my Dakota Digital instrument cluster, and am chewing my way through the instructions. Right away, I found an issue.
The instructions state to solder the main power and ground wires together, and leave them.
Then you need to find a 12V source and a ground.
Why would you destroy the existing 12V source and existing ground to replace them with another 12V source and ground?
No clue. Chineesium instruction, aka chinglish. Penny in the fuse box will help locate the magic smoke release point.
That reminds me..
Now to know which is driver or passenger
Now to know which is driver or passenger
- Thread starter
- #1,229
Are you sure those are for a 1969? They look later to me.
Maybe I'm not seeing them right.
89% sure.
I’ll unstack them and get a better picture. I only had one hand at the moment.
They are square no angle cuts. Doors have wing windows.
- Thread starter
- #1,231
Pry an obstacle delusion...
- Joined
- Apr 14, 2004
- Threads
- 1,468
- Messages
- 36,713
- Location
- 818-953-9230
- Website
- www.marksoffroad.net
At the very least, the angle cuts on the regulator tracks are not stock…for a 40 series.
middlecalf
SILVER Star
My ‘63 45 has those angle cuts FWTW
Last edited:
Interesting.. The doors these came with are visually the same as my 69 40. Maybe I need to look further
- Thread starter
- #1,235
My eyes must've been defective last night as the windows look fine now.
Soooo.... My passenger window is kind of rough, because someone scored it with weld spatter. Is it possible I just buy both windows from you and then you wouldn't need to decide which is which?
Soooo.... My passenger window is kind of rough, because someone scored it with weld spatter. Is it possible I just buy both windows from you and then you wouldn't need to decide which is which?
I think we can make an agreement on something like that.
- Thread starter
- #1,237
I'm gingerly replacing the stock instrument cluster with Dakota Digital unit.
The reason they have you disconnect the positive and negative wires and solder them together, is because instead of bringing power to the cluster, power is going to the controller, then running it to the cluster. The wire connecting is not coincidentally the exact length of the distance between the glove box to the cluster.
I've installed my control switch in half of the hole where the dash light used to be. It's a PO butchery, so will plug the bit that the switch doesn't fill.
The reason they have you disconnect the positive and negative wires and solder them together, is because instead of bringing power to the cluster, power is going to the controller, then running it to the cluster. The wire connecting is not coincidentally the exact length of the distance between the glove box to the cluster.
I've installed my control switch in half of the hole where the dash light used to be. It's a PO butchery, so will plug the bit that the switch doesn't fill.
I would make a washer large enough to cover and then some, that rectangular slot with a correct size for the switch. Clean and rough up the surfaces. Epoxy in place. Pilot drill and chamfer - then install the 2 small self tapping countersunk screws or D&T
Nice pic's and thanks for the explanation
Nice pic's and thanks for the explanation
- Thread starter
- #1,239
Good idea!
Also installed the speedometer sensor. Pretty straightforward install, though it appears over tighten will destroy the pickup.
- Thread starter
- #1,240
The furnished oil pressure sender is not the correct size. It's allegedly 1/8th NPT, and is ever so slightly bigger than the stock hole. Anyone know the correct fitting size? Maybe I can adapt my way out of this.
It's possible I will need to tap the hole bigger. Dunno if that is a good idea or not.
It's possible I will need to tap the hole bigger. Dunno if that is a good idea or not.
