Builds 1967 FJ45LPB resto-mod 1HDFT H55 build (1 Viewer)

[SNLC]

Last bit, it has been discussed to run the t-case off the old dash system. That was a dash pull knob which is a vacuum actuated knob for 4wd. Then use the big dash lever for high/low. That is how it was for 1967. It could be done if the t-case is the 62-series style or we converted the 60-series to the 62 vacuum style. As well as converting the 60-series split case to cable operated. However, it is complicated to do and that means increased cost. A lot of fab and custom work to do this.

At this point, I think we are going floor mount 60-series style t-case shifter. The vacuum knob on the dash will go away but we will retain the big lever. The lever however will run front and rear lockers. Myself, I like this solution. Sure it would be extra cool to have it work like the early 40-series style with the 60/62-series t-case but is it worth the cost and all the fab? Not really and we do still retain the dash lever which is pretty cool to use it to operate the lockers. Don't ya think?

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

Everything else clears under full compression on the drivers side. It’s super close to the remote resi once that is 2.5” diameter. Probably play with different mounts on that before finalizing it.

The tie rod will contact the frame under say max compression, like if you jump this truck. It would have to be the most extreme compression like launching the front end off the ground and coming down hard on it. Two options there to resolve this issue and allow it be be jumped/launched off the ground and take the full hit, drop the bump an inch or notch the frame for tie rod clearance one inch. See what we decide on that, I seriously doubt the owner will ever jump this truck or even fully compress it in the rocks. He is just not going to use it like that.

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

I probably shouldn’t post pics like this because you all will think us hacks!! This is our CAD design.

On a more serious note, we got to customize the hump a lot. We have a plan for that and some parts ordered. I got a t-case shifter from a 60/70-series from Georg but I need a few more parts which are in route now. Currently the plan is standard 60-series style t-case shifter.

Cheers

 

[A10Driver]

Well, somewhat disappointing news today.

Toyota steering box is simply not going to work. Two clearance issues, one tie rod to sector shaft on box and second, drag link to leaf. We can only get 3" up travel no matter how we try and set up the box before things touch in these areas. 3" of up travel is not cutting it, we going with the full 5".

So Saginaw it is.

My only disappointment with the Saginaw is the Cruiser will no longer be 100% Toyota and Land Cruiser. Oh well, it simply won't clear without major mods to the frame which we are not doing.

Cheers

The pitman arm I have is flat, I think that would work for your setup.

 

[SNLC]

The pitman arm I have is flat, I think that would work for your setup.

We got one too my man...

That is really not the issue. You are SuA without high steer. That is a whole different setup. No problem at all to make a 60/62/80/105 box work SuA without high steering and 5” of up travel. Those all combined, it’s not happening unless we limit up travel to 3” or push the box up way high and notch the frame rail for swing of the pitman arm.

The tie rod and or the sector shaft on the steering box conflict as well as leaf to draglink no matter where we place the box. It’s a compromise at this point, limit up travel to 3”, cut the frame big time and notch it and box back in to clearance pitman arm swing or run the Saginaw.

I even tried a 70-series box I have laying around which swings backwards like an IFS mini-truck box. The front crossmember would have to be removed and custom built to use this kind of box or some nasty notches put in it to be able to reach inside the crossmember and fit the nuts for the box bolts. Not to mention to needs to be located right where the core support attaches to the inner fender, plus it ends up with a big ugly steering box forward of the core/inner fender outside frame rail.

Trust me, we played with it for well over two hours today under compression, it’s not happening and Saginaw solves all our probs. It just messes with my plans for winch and winch cage. This is how custom builds work and play out though, adjust here and there, comprises but keep end results in mind.

Cheers

 

[A10Driver]

I'm soa and high steer as well. I hoping to make it work, if not I will probably copy what u end up with

 

[SNLC]

I'm soa and high steer as well. I hoping to make it work, if not I will probably copy what u end up with

You look SuA in the pics but I can’t see much on this damn tiny screen these days without my reading glasses.

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

Rear under full compression, all good.

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

Rear at full droop.

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

Sway bars.

For the front, we are going to run a 70-series I have laying around. It fits almost perfectly.

For the rear, looks like we are going with a Currie RockJock/AntiRock.

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

We grabbed a 60/62 trans hump yesterday.

Out of all this we should be able to come up with a pretty nice trans hump/cover. We have OEM 60-series shifter boots in route.

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

Slapped the 3rd members in so we could get flange to flange measurement for our drivelines.

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

Our King 2.5’s just shipped today.

OH MY, I got a woody!!

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

Front 70-series sway bar is roughed in.

It fits really well. Glad I had it laying around. We are going to do a quick disconnect on it so off-road, it will still flex up nicely. On road, it should help a lot.

Might be changing it up on our trans hump. Ya know this is how a custom build goes, got to be very flexible and ready to try new things and or axe ideas. As long as we are not tossing lots of money into the wind, it’s all good. OEM boots be here Monday so will do more on the hump after they arrive.

We are probably going to axe the rear sway bar. We want to fit the original but man it is puny and may have issues with clearance. The front sway bar is what is really needed since there is so much weight up front. All along we been talking air bags in the rear. Reason why is the owner like to dirt bike. Ya know he may toss two bikes in the back and camping gear for a weekend. He doesn’t want it to sag when he does that. Our only issue with bags is we will not allow it to limit the suspension, we are using the 10” of the shocks no matter what. We got some ideas and things to explore/research.

Man I would love to see the Kings tomorrow but it doesn’t look like they will be here until Monday.

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

So we adjusted the frame side mount on the traction bar.

We also went to a long shackle. We were having some binding issues under full droop, hence the change.

Cheers

 

[A10Driver]

So we adjusted the frame side mount on the traction bar.

View attachment 2374933

We also went to a long shackle. We were having some binding issues under full droop, hence the change.

Cheers

Got a pic of the axle side?

 

[SNLC]

Got a pic of the axle side?

You bet!

Cheers

 

[A10Driver]

You bet!

View attachment 2375113

Cheers

Thanks, building one very similar. Any issue with the parking brake cable with where u have the mount axle side?
Cheers,
Mike

 

[SNLC]

Thanks, building one very similar. Any issue with the parking brake cable with where u have the mount axle side?
Cheers,
Mike

Not with the traction bar. For flex you want it as center as you can get it but we opted a bit offset for the ebrake cable.

Behind the axle we will have to do a few things for the cable but otherwise, good to go.

Cheers