1967 FJ40 Rebuild Project: I Need Some Help!

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Judh8smud

Judh8smud

10 Year
Joined
Sep 18, 2015
Threads
9
Messages
112
Location
Fort Worth Texas
What's up ya'll!

This is Judh8smud (or you can just call me Jud) and I'm new to the site and the world of FJ40's.
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Here's a shot of my rig that I just picked up from a gentlemen on craigslist. It's a 1966 FJ40. There's clearly a lot of work that needs to be done.

Brief Back Story:

I'm in no way very experienced with automotive restoration. I'm a carpenter by trade. My father and I are working on it together though, and he has a decent amount of experience which helps.

The story on the FJ is that it has had several previous owners and was used on deer leases and what not. The guy I bought it from thinks somebody obviously ran into something like a tree or a rock a few times which explains why the front fender is screwed up. It has mostly original parts all around. It also has a "newer" 2f engine. It's in decent shape to say the least but I will list some of the problems it has.

1. Rust inside and out. (good thing is that it's all surface rust)
2. Not running.
3. Ignition improperly wired
4. Windshield broken
5. Weather stripping deteriorated.
6. Upholstery ruined.
7. Front fender bent.
8. Miscellaneous parts worn out (some electrical wiring, a lot of rubber parts, etc,)

Those are just some of the simple problems that I can think of...I'm sure I'll run into more as I go along ;)

Anyways, we're starting with the engine problems first. As I said, it's currently not running and it hasn't run for about a little over 2 years. Since the ignition wiring is messed up, we've been trying a few things such as attempting to start the engine by jumping it off and other things but to no avail.

What we have done is we have purchased a new battery, its a duralast gold (bottom), recommended battery by our local auto zone for my specific vehicle. We have also replaced the ignition coil with a brand new one. (top left)
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This has helped quite a bit so far but we still couldn't seem to get it to crank over. Today we took the starter motor to auto zone and had it tested...it's no good. Thankfully I can have it replaced for around only $60. Once I have that replaced and installed, we're going to try to create a circuit from the distributor to the ignition coil, from the ignition coil to the positive of the battery, and then hook up the regular negative cable to the negative of the battery. Then we'll take the cable that we will attach to the starter motor and tap the positive of the battery to spark a current in hopes of starting the engine or atleast getting it to try. (don't worry, I watched somebody do it on youtube so I know what I'm doing lol)

Other than that, we're going to re wire the ignition and probably most of the electrical and see if we can start it from the ignition after we find out if the engine will start or not.

Here's a pic of the ignition wiring situation...pretty hard to see what's really going on, but we know it's not right, the guy I bought it from said that the previous owner had wired it wrong and fried something. Also, does any one know what the little can is on the right side?
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Here are some extra pics just for grins...
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Not sure if the instruments work either.

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Not sure why these instruments would be necessary but they are there.
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And finally a shot of the cab. I've removed the seats and the fuel tank, cleaning that out.

I'm planning on sandblasting off all of the rust from the frame to the chassis as well.

I might do a nice OD green and gunmetal grey detail paint job, we'll see.

So that's about it for now.

What are ya'll's recommendations? I'm open to any questions and advice and I'll be checking in on this thread pretty frequently.

I want to make it a daily driver, what are your recommendations on some vital things that I should do to make sure it's reliable?

Also, any upholstery recommendations?

Thaks guys.
 
Judh8smud said:
I want to make it a daily driver, what are your recommendations on some vital things that I should do to make sure it's reliable?

Thaks guys.
Click to expand...

Congrats Jud with the new to you 40 and welcome to MUD! :cheers:

It looks like the old gal has a lot of potential.

For safety and reliability I would recommend the following initially:

1. Get the engine running
2. Make sure your brakes are working, linings, master cylinder, wheel cylinders
3. Check steering gear box, tie rod ends, and rag joint
4. Clean gas tank
5. Either rebuild or replace carb.
6. Check fuel pump
7. Get Lights up and running
8. And for Colorado weather make sure the heater is working
 
FYI that windshield is from 64 or 65. The engine is a 2F and from a 75 or later. Specter Off Road has a frame chart on their site you can date when the 40 was made. There is also a way to date the engine if looking for parts. Does it have a three speed or four speed? Probably had a column shift transmission and a dash shifter for the transfer case from the factory. The boot used on the transfer case shifter is from a later FJ40.
 
78fj40mg said:
Congrats Jud with the new to you 40 and welcome to MUD! :cheers:

It looks like the old gal has a lot of potential.

For safety and reliability I would recommend the following initially:

1. Get the engine running
2. Make sure your brakes are working, linings, master cylinder, wheel cylinders
3. Check steering gear box, tie rod ends, and rag joint
4. Clean gas tank
5. Either rebuild or replace carb.
6. Check fuel pump
7. Get Lights up and running
8. And for Colorado weather make sure the heater is working
Click to expand...

Hey Mike!

Thanks! I think she does too! Also thank you for all of the helpful information! I really apprecaite it.

Yeah, I've got some rocks and garbage in my gas tank...any suggestions on how to get those out? I can't quite get my hand down there.
 
Living in the Past said:
FYI that windshield is from 64 or 65. The engine is a 2F and from a 75 or later. Specter Off Road has a frame chart on their site you can date when the 40 was made. There is also a way to date the engine if looking for parts. Does it have a three speed or four speed? Probably had a column shift transmission and a dash shifter for the transfer case from the factory. The boot used on the transfer case shifter is from a later FJ40.
Click to expand...

Hey thanks for all of the specs and info! I really appreciate it. I'll have to look into that with Specter.

It's a 3 speed.
 
I see it has what are called bug catcher vent windows that would date the same as the windshield. Possible a 64 or 65 that didn't sell for a few years and was titled as later year. Wasn't that uncommon but usually had round brass tag with the year it was sold attached to one of the screws on the VIN plate.
 
Welcome to mud. U have a much better start than I had on my first 40.
 
Judh8smud said:
Hey Mike!

Thanks! I think she does too! Also thank you for all of the helpful information! I really apprecaite it.

Yeah, I've got some rocks and garbage in my gas tank...any suggestions on how to get those out? I can't quite get my hand down there.
Click to expand...

Tilt the gas tank on one of its corners to concentrate all the loose stuff and then use a vacuum hose to suck out all the debris, assuming you've removed the sending unit.
 
78fj40mg said:
Tilt the gas tank on one of its corners to concentrate all the loose stuff and then use a vacuum hose to suck out all the debris, assuming you've removed the sending unit.
Click to expand...

Ok will do! Thanks!

I'm not sure what the "sending unit" is...are you by any chance referring to the part on the top of the tank which has some electrical wire connections?
 
I'd also throw a couple feet of medium sized chain into the tank... Attach it to a length of rope, slosh it around to knock loose rust, and pull it out. Wash it out a few times, and let it dry well.

For paint, I'd recomend White for the bezzle, and with for the roof (if you get one).
 
The Hood Spear is hard to find/replace, so be cautious.

Gauges are very similar over the years, but you need to match the sender to the guage... Some changes happened over the years (ask here... Some have answers). That may be why you've got aftermarket Guages to work with the 2F.
 
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Definately a 65,but very common to be registered later on. Looks like a great start to making your wallet much lighter!! You will find out as much as we all have here in mud, it becomes a lifestyle!!
 
Test that flasher relay before you replace it. They are pretty simple inside and you never know, it may still work. Be aware though, that the old bi-metalic ones like this one are load sensitive, so you'll need to have an electrical load on it as big as what the vehicle was originally equipped with (or bigger) in order to make it blink properly (in other words, you'll need both front and rear signal lights hooked up). Too high of a load will make it blink fast, too low will make it not blink at all. Or just replace the lights with LED's and the flasher relay with an LED specific unit... Looks to me like you've got bigger fish to fry before you get to that, though.
 
Judh8smud said:
Ok will do! Thanks!

I'm not sure what the "sending unit" is...are you by any chance referring to the part on the top of the tank which has some electrical wire connections?
Click to expand...

Yes that would be the one.
 
Jud, I recommend you clean all the ignition switch contacts, replace any broken wires, etc. The flasher appears to have a missing wire it might be the white wire but you need to verify prior to re-connecting.

IMG_7613_zpsopzroo7q.jpg
 
Jud one more thing I noticed the bezel is upside down, you may want to fix that before the bezel mud police get you. BTW the bezel is what's holding the Colorado license plate in place and runs around the headlights.

full


Beware of the Bezel police!

full
 
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i had a 65 years ago that some dealer plowed snow with for 3 years and sold as a 68 .the guy i bought it from sold it because none of the parts he bought fit .welcome to mud
 
bikersmurf said:
I'd also throw a couple feet of medium sized chain into the tank... Attach it to a length of rope, slosh it around to knock loose rust, and pull it out. Wash it out a few times, and let it dry well.

For paint, I'd recomend White for the bezzle, and with for the roof (if you get one).
Click to expand...

That's a great idea. I'll have to try that as well.

Yeah I'll probably stick with white on those parts. We'll see.

Thanks!
 
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