1966 FJ40 preservation/build (2 Viewers)

[daner]

Out and about in the hills looking at a few old gold mines.

 

[daner]

Here is a cheap amplifier with blue tooth receiver built in. I cant see why you would need more than this. 4 channel. I like Skar audio marine speakers, good value for the sound, but theyre $120/pair. A more eco option is the Pyle marine speaker lined below.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00WR6ZX4I/ref=sspa_mw_detail_0?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3PAV43I12A2F0&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9kZXRhaWwyp13NParams&th=1

Amazon product ASIN B00022OBNS

Thanks for the link and advice, the amplifier and speakers arrived yesterday and will post pics of “operation invisible stereo”

 

[daner]

My thoughts are out to those who served today. The thought that those young men and women sacrificed the best years of their lives-and often their lives for the greater good should never be taken for granted.

On a less serious note, I”m taking the day to swap parts from two corrugated tops to make one good one.

 

[120mm]

Really digging your jack placement.

What mounts?

 

[daner]

Really digging your jack placement.

What mounts?

Thx-The mounts are just some aluminum angle iron I had, was able to utilize existing holes from a roll bar as I can’t bring myself the drill holes in vintage steel. Unfortunately I will have to find a new location when I install the jump seats.

 

[daner]

One of my all time favorite movie lines is from Anchorman when Ron Burgandy observed that, “boy, that escalated quickly!”

That quote was on my mind when I set out to disassemble the white top to provide the parts for the red top. I envisioned a 2-3 hour project that would provide the necessary parts for the good top and get stuff out of the yard, which would in theory make the wife happy. But, every nut and bolt is resisting efforts with an impact driver, even with the correct JIS bits.

I can’t think of another appropriate Ron Burgandy quote, but yeah, rust.

 

[nuclearlemon]

rule number one to old cruisers....two weeks before doing anything, spend 10 minutes everyday dousing every bolt in kroil/pb blaster/ed's red/whatever your choice of lube is. if you can do it each morning and again each evening, all the better.

 

[daner]

Need help from the early 40 gang: I am installing jump seats, but based on the lack of holes on the upper mounts along the rim where the hardtop mounts, it did not come with seats from the factory. What type of screws attach it to the body? I’m looking at it and see no place to get behind it and put a washer/nut…did Toyota just use a lag bolt on the top mount?

Thanks!

 

[kunzma]

I think those are the wrong seats for your truck. The early seats don't have the strap to fasten to the side wall you show in your picture. Can't help on the bolts because mine have been swapped with newer.

 

[rainingagain]

Here are some old pics from mine. Drivers side though. It's all I could find. I believe they are capture nuts.

I think you have a later model seat. There were a few changes over the years, I think mid-71 to 74-ish from what I've gathered is what you have.

Keep in mind I only know this because I was searching for seat covers. Hopefully someone with more hands on experience can chime in.

 

[EWheeler]

@daner If you want to fasten to the rail, you can use what are called Riv-Nuts. You drill a hole and use a tool to install a female threaded rivet into the hole. The metal deforms and squeezes the factory sheet metal and gives you a threaded hole to secure the seat to.

Here is where I bought mine, see the right table. Pay mind to the 3rd column of the table, you want to match correct metal thickness.

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

Here is the cheaper option for installation:

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

I ended up buying M6, M8, M10, & M12 sizes to have on hand for various things. Most recently used some M6 when I installed a 3spd floor shifter on a truck that came column shift.

 

[daner]

Thanks for the replies and helpful info and suggestions. I suspected they were not the right seats for a 65 but after looking for several years they were the only ones that showed up locally at a price I could afford. I’ll keep my eyes open for the correct ones, but in the meantime, that is what I have to work with. Based on everyone’s input these came out of an early 1970s FJ40, so that is helpful to finding seat covers that will fit these.

 

[daner]

@daner If you want to fasten to the rail, you can use what are called Riv-Nuts. You drill a hole and use a tool to install a female threaded rivet into the hole. The metal deforms and squeezes the factory sheet metal and gives you a threaded hole to secure the seat to.

Here is where I bought mine, see the right table. Pay mind to the 3rd column of the table, you want to match correct metal thickness.

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

Here is the cheaper option for installation:

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

I ended up buying M6, M8, M10, & M12 sizes to have on hand for various things. Most recently used some M6 when I installed a 3spd floor shifter on a truck that came column shift.

Thanks for the link and info, putting together an order.

 

[EWheeler]

Thanks for the link and info, putting together an order.

Admittedly, there is a much cheaper option for installing the riv-nuts than the threaded tool that I linked. Here is a video.

 

[HelloKitty65]

For your search image for back seats look for a more rectangular bottom cushion. Sending a PM.

 

[Roastchestnuts]

Hoping someone else has dealt with this as I have had it on the back burner for a couple of years, but my torpedo bolts that secure the rear doors are in sad condition: one is frozen and broken, while the other is completely missing: Any insight for a reasonable fix would be appreciated! Thanks, Duane View attachment 3020705View attachment 3020706

Did you ever find a solution for this? I am missing my pins all together. Thanks! Gotta love an early corrugated top fj40!

 

[daner]

Did you ever find a solution for this? I am missing my pins all together. Thanks! Gotta love an early corrugated top fj40!

I did not unfortunately, was put on the backburner.

 

[daner]

When your drive on a sunny day finds you sheltering at a Holiday Inn express canopy to get out golf ball sized hail

 

[daner]

Afternoon everyone! The reality of using a nearly 60 year old FJ40 as a daily driver and also in the backcountry caught up: Case in point, after doing a solo crossing of the Black Rock desert, a couple of little things failed, most pressing of which the early 40/25 style hinge pin broke after 250 miles of washboard roads. After soaking the screws in oil was able to pull the hinge and extract the broken pin. I have not had the chance to search the internet to see if a replacement pin is available, but in the meantime heading to hardware store to see if I can find something temporary so I can at least open the hood without tweaking anything.

 

[locklaw]

Afternoon everyone! The reality of using a nearly 60 year old FJ40 as a daily driver and also in the backcountry caught up: Case in point, after doing a solo crossing of the Black Rock desert, a couple of little things failed, most pressing of which the early 40/25 style hinge pin broke after 250 miles of washboard roads. After soaking the screws in oil was able to pull the hinge and extract the broken pin. I have not had the chance to search the internet to see if a replacement pin is available, but in the meantime heading to hardware store to see if I can find something temporary so I can at least open the hood without tweaking anything. View attachment 3424569View attachment 3424570

Congratulations on actually using it. I have rebuilt the older style hinges with a door pin rebuild kit, cut to length and then bashing over the end. A long enough bolt and nylock nut will also do the trick temporarily.