Builds 1965 FJ45lv build up/resto thread

[cruiserbrett]

Also, I think the seat belt retractors have to be mounted in a direction such that the axis of the spool is facing fore-aft for the catch mechanism to work. theyre pretty sensitive as I found out even tiltled the wrong way, might want to chek the mechanism out before you mount them with the axis side to side.

 

[buckroseau]

hey matt.
in one of the pics a while back i saw the alternator and a possible problem came to mind. i see that you're running the factory gm aluminum acc bracketry on the front of the engine. most of the TBIs had these, although some of the vans had a nice stamped steel unit instead. make sure that you run the factory steel "strutts" in conjunction with the al. brackets. i have sen them brake due to vibration. the strutts get rid of that problem.
if you don't have the strutts or don;t know what i'm talking about, have the dealer fax you the exploded views of the brackets and it'll show the strutts and where they attach.
hope that helps.

I do have the strutts, I just haven't put them on yet, but I was unaware of why they were there. If I have a problem fitting them up I will keep those van steel brackets in mind.

Thanks, Matt

 

[buckroseau]

Also, I think the seat belt retractors have to be mounted in a direction such that the axis of the spool is facing fore-aft for the catch mechanism to work. theyre pretty sensitive as I found out even tiltled the wrong way, might want to chek the mechanism out before you mount them with the axis side to side.

Never thought of that, good call?? When I go home for lunch I will hold them in that position and see if I can get them to catch. I know in the 79 they were facing sideways mounted to the rollbar, 90 degrees to what they are now.

Thanks, Matt

 

[buckroseau]

I don't think I've ever seen this done, but seems like to easy of a solution to my problem.

Basicly cut the stick off just above the pivot point, or bend it above the pivot point. And then make a new stick the same shape, but approx. 6" further forward.

Yes, there is more leverage created at the point of the bend or weld, but you would reinforce that area heavily.

Moves the stick forward, all the linkage stays in tact, everything works the same, right?

Matt

 

[zebrabeefj40]

The hole in the floor would need to get bigger than stock to accomodate the increased throw of the lever do to length. Weld it up and try it. Worst case you get to buy a twin stick set-up from AA or make another linkage.

Nick

 

[buckroseau]

I'm telling ya, x-mas has come early for me this week Look what showed up today.

I went home at noon and took some pics. I also kinda held it up underneath the dash to see how it would fit. that bracket that goes from the firewall to the dash MUST go. There is absolutely no way to get it up there with that there. It still is going to hang out the bottom a bit, but at least you get 3 to 4 inches up there I think.


Also Brett, I went home and swung the retract mech and tugged on the belt. The counter weight in there must be designed to catch at any position. It didn't matter if it was sideways, forward or backwards. A sudden stop with it while pulling on the belt and it caught every time.

Thanks Gary

Matt

 

[buckroseau]

The hole in the floor would need to get bigger than stock to accomodate the increased throw of the lever do to length. Weld it up and try it. Worst case you get to buy a twin stick set-up from AA or make another linkage.

Nick

That's the only thing I could think of that would change or might be a problem. Side to side would be the same, but front to back throw would be increased. I may figure that out before I change it to make sure it fit's inside the cut out/ boot ring. I might end up only lengthing it by approx. 4"?

Matt

 

[Texican]

Basicly cut the stick off just above the pivot point, or bend it above the pivot point. And then make a new stick the same shape, but approx. 6" further forward. Matt

I have tried this, and it don't work very well, since the stick has to move fore and aft, and left and right it tries to pivot around the bent area........now if you can just bend in forward without the 90 and extension that works mo betta......
Also when ya do it like you have pictured the hole and boot have to be larger for room.....

 

[rutbeer]

Yeah, I second that. Relocate the shifter pivot point and do it right. The extra lever throw really is a PITA. I had this problem in my 40 series with the SM420 conversion I had. When in 4low, the shifter was in the way of the passenger knee room and easily knocked out of gear. The stock shifter moves very little when it's engaged.....for a reason.

 

[TJDIV]

you are a dirty pirate hooker.



Mushro just called, he'll middle man sell your LV right now for $60,000.




Awesome work dude.

 

[buckroseau]

Well....I proved without a doubt why I don't make the big bucks tonight. An absolutely retarded move on my part tonight.....not life ending, but basicly a whole evening wasted

Got home and thought I would take a look at that AC unit, figured I would look it over, hold it up and start getting an idea. I looked for about a half hour, measuring, double checking, measuring again.... and then I had a plan. So out comes the grinder, hacked off that bracket from the firewall to the dash. Ground down a couple T nuts on the firewall that I knew I wouldn't need. Used the cut off wheel and cut back the lower edge of the dash lip about a 1/2". Cut the glove compartment to relief it for the AC hose and heater hose. Then I fit it up there, little more tweaking, but fit it up real nice and that I had a good start on this. After a couple hours of screwing around getting this thing in and out, grinding and fitting, getting it closer to where I wanted it.......I realize..............................................WIPER MOTOR AND ASSEMBLY.........ooohhhhhh........repeat after me.......MATT IS AN IDIOT...........

So...there I am with my head up my ass.....there is no way in hell the way I have it mounted that the wiper motor and the assembly it going to fit in there. So, it all comes back out, I briefly clean up the wiper motor assembly and loosely fit that in there. It was getting late, but I looked it over again briefly and held the unit back up there to get an idea for tomorrow night.

I guess I didn't do anything tonight that didn't need to be done I guess. That center bracket still had to be removed, and the dash lip still had to be cut back a 1/2". But just chaps my hide that I wasted that time....

Anyway, posted a pic of what I had in there, the height is going to be the same, but the AC unit has to move towards the glove compartment quite a bit, about 8 to 10". I had to cut into the glove compartment to make relief's for the hoses and the hose were going to run through there anyway, but now you can kiss the glove compartment good bye. It has to go for sure, I need to cut into it quite a bit, you can see the marks I made in one of the pics. Also the right defrost duct will have to be cut so that is completely horizontal and doesn't have that drop in it, just ain't enough room.

Santa came again tonight, more Lokar stuff.

Matt

 

[buckroseau]

more

 

[buckroseau]

last 3

 

[cabron]

Keep your head up. You may feel bad but you are still teaching thousands of people so much. I'll speak more most when I say that if I had half the skills and resources you have, I'd be had building Ferraris in my garage out of aluminum cans and paper clips

 

[buckroseau]

One other thing. I talked to my body man buddy today about the seat belts, he sees the same pics you guys see.

He thought the 4" x 6" 3/16" steel plate underneath was a bit of over kill. He said a new car has some doubled up sheet metal in most seat belt attachment point on newer stuff.

So for the attachment points through the floor for the rewind mech and the other fixed point I am going to go through o.c. on a rib and then a 1 1/2" x 6" - 1/8" piece of steel with a nut welded to it. I guess that still distributes the load pretty well over the floor sheet metal and it would take a lot to pull that piece through the floor.

He also saw the buckle vice gripped to the seat frame I made, thought that was fine. I told him I was going to bring a 1" leg from the frame to the floor with a 1 1/2" x 6 plate underneath also. He kinda thought that was over kill also. He thought that was a hell of a lot of spot welds to pull out to rip that seat frame out of the floor. So not exactly sure if I'm going to do that or not, kinda thinking I still will do it anyway?

Matt

 

[buckroseau]

Keep your head up. You may feel bad but you are still teaching thousands of people so much. I'll speak more most when I say that if I had half the skills and resources you have, I'd be had building Ferraris in my garage out of aluminum cans and paper clips

Thanks I would like to see a Ferraris built out of aluminum cans and paper clips?? I would imagine it's possible.

I just hate the fact that I pretty much wasted tonight.....I guess I want to get it done and much as anybody and nights like tonight are just going backwards.

I'll probably feel better tomorrow night after I cut up some more chub and get it a little more in the area that it needs to be.

One other thing, ash tray is history also. No way that can be there either. I am going to have to cut the dash around the ash tray area and I am going to continue that dash line that is just to the left of the ashtray. Essentialy lowering to body line above the ashtray down about an inch or so.

Matt

 

[buckroseau]

Mushro just called, he'll middle man sell your LV right now for $60,000.


.

He's going to have to do a little better than that

Matt

 

[lowenbrau]

On the seatbelt quandry, I swapped some 40 series ones for later minitruck ones and gained a couple of inches. I'd rather be belted to the frame that the seat is connected to though. In the case of a side impact it would suck to have the seat/frame forced sideways while the belt is holding you in place. If the question is holding the frame down, answer it.

 

[buckroseau]

On the seatbelt quandry, I swapped some 40 series ones for later minitruck ones and gained a couple of inches. I'd rather be belted to the frame that the seat is connected to though. In the case of a side impact it would suck to have the seat/frame forced sideways while the belt is holding you in place. If the question is holding the frame down, answer it.

Never thought of the side impact, good point. I am planning on bolting the buckle to the seat frame(same frame the seat is bolted to). So in the event of a side impact, it all moves together.

I'm thinking of bringing a 1" x 1" leg (same tubing the seat frame is made out of) directly o.c. on the rear of the seat frame to the floor right behind that U channel that spans the floor. And then bolt this leg to the floor, so the seat frame is bolted to the floor.

Maybe not needed? My buddy might be right, how much more is that small area of bolts going to do than all that metal below it that is spot welded across the entire span of the floor??

Matt

 

[tucker74]

When I replaced the seats in my 40 with Celica seats they had the belt catch integrated into the side of the seat frame. I simply removed them and bolted the LC catches to the same point (I have the same belts you're using from a '79) ...

I don't think you'll need the extra dog leg - the seat frame will provide plenty of support (better than most modern cars).

Tucker