1964 FJ45 LB “RB1” Project (1 Viewer)

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Do you have a pn for those rubber hangers? And did u use bar stock for the hooks that go into them? I could goto a junkyard and pull a bunch but sometimes ups is easier. Want to utilize the same hanging system on a smaller scale. Looks way better than any exhaust shop could do.

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Do you have a pn for those rubber hangers? And did u use bar stock for the hooks that go into them? I could goto a junkyard and pull a bunch but sometimes ups is easier. Want to utilize the same hanging system on a smaller scale. Looks way better than any exhaust shop could do.

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Bought the rubber isolators and the j hooks from summit racing. Was going to just use bar stock and bend my own j hooks but for the price of these, it was not worth it. Rubber isolator #35119 and j hook WLK-35005

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Funny Mike, most people would just open the packages and discard them. But you have the fore thought to take pics of them, install the parts , and post pictures of awesome workmanship! Then, someone asks the question about the parts you used and Bam, you have the pics to document everything! Very nice work!
 
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Funny Mike, most people would just open the packages and discard them. But you have the fore thought to take pics of them, install the parts , and post pictures of awesome workmanship! Then, someone asks the question about the parts you used and Bam, you have the pics to document everything! Very nice work!

Well, actually, I had some extras because I ordered too many. I was cleaning up some stuff yesterday and ran across the extra ones so the timing of the question was perfect for me to look really organized. :)
 
Got a few things done over the last couple weeks:
Gas tank mounted to bed.
Hole cut in bed for filling tank.
Fuel supply line run from tank to pump.
Tank vent valve mounted and vent line run.
Fabbed up a battery tray. Painted and mounted.
Fabbed up a coolant overflow tank mount.
Made a bracket to hold the ebrake cable away from exhaust.
Started on a txfr skid plate.

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it's great to see an update on here. i had been reading your build without an account on ih8mud expecting to see a finished product given the starting date of this thread. when i finally got to the end of the thread and saw there was still more work to be done i figured i had to sign up and subscribe! awesome work.
 
it's great to see an update on here. i had been reading your build without an account on ih8mud expecting to see a finished product given the starting date of this thread. when i finally got to the end of the thread and saw there was still more work to be done i figured i had to sign up and subscribe! awesome work.

Thanks and Welcome to mud!
This has been a long build. Much longer than I ever imagined.
Maybe this is the year...
 
I sure hope so my friend I am looking for a ride in this rig, great work as usual mike, and BTW have mine just about ready brake's have been a challenge your parts worked just fine it was the other issues that has kept me from finish. Best
 
Maiden run yesterday so cool to drive, just need to do the final adjustments on the rear brakes shoes and off to the scales to get a weight on it, then the final registration Ya Hoo...
 
Front spring solid mount point for shackle reversal.

Mike, truck looks great. Funny how one tiny mod or cleanup can turn into a naked frame. Question for you.... I did my SOA and SR using stock perches up front and Dom thru the frame at 42.5" center to center. I extended my frame horns 1 3/4" and using 1" longer shackles everything is mocked up with Saginaw box in place. I used stock shackles in rear and currently have full spring pack. After looking at the forward slope with the bed on it kinda seemed steeper than I wanted, (not sure yet) plus my Saginaw box is resting against the perch. Today I put 1" blocks b/w the fame and the front perches to see how it looks. It now has 1 degree of forward slope and decent clearance from the Saginaw box. In looking at your perches it seems like they are about an inch taller than the stock ones? How does your truck sit. I used my iPhone level (which is amazingly accurate and great for checking pinion angles etc..) checking my aprons, door sills and bed rails I have 1 degree of forward slope on all.

What I don't know is how it will react with bed load. That's the next test. If you have any notes on your perches I may fab up a pair to try it and see.

Thanks, Don

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Mike, truck looks great. Funny how one tiny mod or cleanup can turn into a naked frame. Question for you.... I did my SOA and SR using stock perches up front and Dom thru the frame at 42.5" center to center. I extended my frame horns 1 3/4" and using 1" longer shackles everything is mocked up with Saginaw box in place. I used stock shackles in rear and currently have full spring pack. After looking at the forward slope with the bed on it kinda seemed steeper than I wanted, (not sure yet) plus my Saginaw box is resting against the perch. Today I put 1" blocks b/w the fame and the front perches to see how it looks. It now has 1 degree of forward slope and decent clearance from the Saginaw box. In looking at your perches it seems like they are about an inch taller than the stock ones? How does your truck sit. I used my iPhone level (which is amazingly accurate and great for checking pinion angles etc..) checking my aprons, door sills and bed rails I have 1 degree of forward slope on all.

What I don't know is how it will react with bed load. That's the next test. If you have any notes on your perches I may fab up a pair to try it and see.

Thanks, Don

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Sorry I meant your hangers. Little too tired last night when I wrote this and realized I interchanged "perches" everywhere I meant to say "spring hangers".

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Hey Don, thanks for the clarification. I made the front spring hangers. No drawings. Just measured and the.center of the spring eye to bottom of frame is 3". I believe that is longer/lower than a stock solid point hanger for rear of front spring. I found that anything tucked up closer to the frame and I had steering box clearence Issues.
Can't say for sure yet on the front to rear slope because I don't have all the weight on it yet but so far looks pretty good. The rear sitting a bit higher than the front. Can always adjust later by adding a leaf if necessary. Im using fj55 springs in the rear so that could make some difference. Shackles are 4.5" from hole to hole.
 
I've got some more stuff completed:
-run the diff vent lines
-made hard heater lines from firewall to heater
-modified the defroster ducts so I can lower the windshield
-made defroster connectors for the heater (these are no longer avail from toyota)
-mount and cut choke cable to length, fabbed up a choke bracket
-made rr diff/txfr breather mount
-mounted brake booster, MC, and prop valve.
-made remainder of brake lines
-mounted up the powersteering box and hoses
-filled engine, rr diff, ft diff, txfr, toybox, ps and trans with proper oils/lubes
-lubed drivelines
-painted skidplate, mounted it

A lot more to do but I think I'm close to blowing it apart and adding some paint to the lower cab...
 
My defrost vents are in the getting cut in half stage as well. Weird design

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If anyone can help, I need some measurements from a windshield frame. Need to know where the windshield wiper arm posts that go through the frame are located. This is on a the wiper setup with single motor on top of frame that operates both driver and passenger wiper arms. One driven by the motor and other by the push\pull cable.
I need to drill holes in the frame. Don't have this type w/w frame to measure. Thanks.
 
If anyone can help, I need some measurements from a windshield frame. Need to know where the windshield wiper arm posts that go through the frame are located. This is on a the wiper setup with single motor on top of frame that operates both driver and passenger wiper arms. One driven by the motor and other by the push\pull cable.

I need to drill holes in the frame. Don't have this type w/w frame to measure. Thanks.

Get some measurements from an FJ40. Then when I was transferring them to the FJ45 window frame, noticed an issue. :frown: The removable hardtop latches are going to be right in the way of where the ww motor mounts, especially on the drivers side. I may be able to slide the motor assembly to the passenger side, but not sure yet without some more mock-up.

So, did Toyota have the combination of the Removable Hardtop cab, with quick release latches on the window frame, and the single windshield wiper motor setup? Again, I'm referring to the single ww motor that mounts to the top of the window frame and then drives the other windshield wiper via the push pull cable? :confused:

If anyone has this setup, I'd really appreciate some measurements and pictures.
Thanks!
 
Get some measurements from an FJ40. Then when I was transferring them to the FJ45 window frame, noticed an issue. :frown: The removable hardtop latches are going to be right in the way of where the ww motor mounts, especially on the drivers side. I may be able to slide the motor assembly to the passenger side, but not sure yet without some more mock-up.

So, did Toyota have the combination of the Removable Hardtop cab, with quick release latches on the window frame, and the single windshield wiper motor setup? Again, I'm referring to the single ww motor that mounts to the top of the window frame and then drives the other windshield wiper via the push pull cable? :confused:

If anyone has this setup, I'd really appreciate some measurements and pictures.
Thanks!

None of the US versions would have that set-up as they all came with the two individual WW motors on driver and passenger sides. Although I imagine that post '68 non USA FJ45s had a similiar setup to what you are looking for.
 
Mudrak has the wiper setup you are trying to do.can't remember if he has flap in frame or not tho.

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