1964 FJ45 LB “RB1” Project

[miker]

As usual Mike, you are the man.

Thanks Kelly.
Any progress on your 45?

 

[Living in the Past]

Anyone have a trick or advice for getting the boot over the shifter? This is the stock boot and Toyota pickup TC shifter. Seems like the boot will probably tear if I try to stretch it over the shifter...

Not using pickup TC shifter but a 60 series transmission shifter (same two piece). I've asked the same question in the 60 series forum with no real answer. I know the shifter is a two peice that is epoxy glued together. Maybe Toyota installed the boot before mating the two pieces at the factory but how do you do it now?

Nice build by the way.

 

[JohnnyC]

you can try softening the rubber by warming it up...as well as the mentioned lube

looking good BTW

 

[miker]

Thanks guys, before realizing the boot was going to be a potential install issue, I was considering cutting the fat part of the shifter lever off and making something new. Maybe this is another reason to go that route and make a removable top lever.

But heating the boot in hot water may work, along with some soap or other lube. Might just give that a try before making any mods to the lever.

 

[2fpower]

Heat is the way to go.

 

[miker]

heat and lube, its on. no problems.

 

[miker]

have the Orion assembled as much as possible short of final install into the chassis.

 

[miker]

BTW, had to hand sand the step washers to get the proper clearance. Too tight without sanding them. Too loose for my taste with the stock washers. Sanded the step washers to just get to the minimum clearance spec.

 

[miker]

discovered something I wan't aware of (no surprise there)...there ARE different speedometer drive gears. In my pile of t-case parts I had about a half dozen drive gears and all were 6x17 except for one which had no ledgible marks but was much smaller diameter than the others. I need to search here on mud and see what info there is on these drive and driven gears. I have a problen on my 40 where it keeps stripping out the driven gear (nylon) and perhpas this is the reason. It may have the smaller diameter drive gear installed in it.

update: looks like all the speedo drive and driven gear info was posted by IDave here:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/131975-speedo-correction.html

makes me think even more that my 40 has the smaller drive gear, the 6x18. I've put 6x17 driven gears into it and they quickly get chewed up...

 

[miker]

bought material to build a body cart. Have it all cut up. just need to weld it up. plan to put the lower cab on it so I can have only the frame on the rotisserie until I get the frame painted and the chassis assembled to the 4 wheels.

 

[Gusb]

bought material to build a body cart. Have it all cut up. just need to weld it up. plan to put the lower cab on it so I can have only the frame on the rotisserie until I get the frame painted and the chassis assembled to the 4 wheels.

Nice work!

Can't wait to see the body cart - please post a few pictures when you get the chance.

 

[miker]

Nice work!

Can't wait to see the body cart - please post a few pictures when you get the chance.

Will look just like this one.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-906702/

No need to come up with a new design.
Making it from 2x2 and 1.5x1.5 square with .188 wall. Total cost about $150.

 

[miker]

Have the body cart finished. Decided to go ahead and modify the cab's firewall to better accept the gas pedal and mounting bracket. It's easier to do that with the cab on the rotisserie, so I'll finish up the firewall mods, get the gas pedal mounted and check clearances before taking the body off the frame and mounting it on the cart. Made quite a bit of progress on the firewall. Didn't take any pics during the process but will snap one after I get it finished.

 

[47coeman]

Mike
Had a feeling that you jumped on that cart build, looking forward to seeing the cart as well as the firewall improvements in the near future.

 

[miker]

Have the firewall modified where the gas pedal will attach. Not too many pics, but one in progress and one finished. I think I ended up with cutting and patching together about 4 pieces to get what I wanted. Most pieces are original metal and one about 2" x 3" is new:

 

[miker]

Like usual, once I start something, I get deeper and deeper. To that end, I've now patched or changed a number of things on the forewall in order to clean up the look and potentially avoid futue issues. The captive nuts that are circled in blue tend to trap crud, rust, and then cause the bolts to snap off or teh nut to twist in teh holder. So, removed these and then welded a nut directly to the floor/firewall. The ones circled in red I won't be using and these I've shaved and then welded up the holes. I have a few more items on the forewall and dash to deal with, but might as well get these done now before removing the cab from the frame. I'll post up some pics later of the "progress" ???

 

[miker]

and the body cart, half hiding behind everything else on the floor of the garage.

 

[miker]

trying to keep this build going. Have the firewall holes patched and caltured nuts removed and new nuts welded on. shot on some surfacer.

pulled the cab off the frame. finished welding the frame, including stitch welding the frame, welding between each rivet to hopfully give the frame some additional rigidity. Lower cab is on the cart, and the frame is ready for final cleaning the paint. "final cleaning" most likely being media blasted. But now that the weather has turned colder, I seem to be about 3 weeks too late to get this painted before the winter sets in. we'll how it goes with the weather and my time...

 

[miker]

a few of the stitch welding on the frame.

 

[KT40]

As usual Mike, looks awesome!!
Put me in line for the rental of the body cart!
This way you can make your $$ back and then some.