Look forward to seeing what you get (Diversion 180?
) and what you do with it.As usual - beautiful work.
1964 FJ45 LB “RB1” Project (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter miker
- Start date
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Look forward to seeing what you get (Diversion 180?
) and what you do with it.As usual - beautiful work.
- Thread starter
- #342
Look forward to seeing what you get (Diversion 180?
As usual - beautiful work.
Thanks Gus.
I've been very happy with Miller so that's my first choice. The Diversion 180 is one I'm considering if I buy new. Also looking around the used market. But I'm not in a hurry, this project is in super slow mo...
Awl_TEQ
Supporting Vendor
If imitation is the sincerest form of flattery then prepare to be flattered.
I have one x-brace that is a tad rusty and I need a good way to secure the cage to the frame. Your solution is better than what I had in mind. Getting rid of the factory "bench" across the back of the cab sure simplifies the cage anchoring. I am also enlarging the tranny/doghouse cut rearward 7" to allow my Toybox to fit and your setup will help stiffen the floor.
I don't want the tank in the cab so I will likely remove my filler neck and patch the cab corner smooth. On second thought, I'll just weld the holes shut and leave the notch in the cab there.
Are you welding through all those holes in the plate into the floor?
I have one x-brace that is a tad rusty and I need a good way to secure the cage to the frame. Your solution is better than what I had in mind. Getting rid of the factory "bench" across the back of the cab sure simplifies the cage anchoring. I am also enlarging the tranny/doghouse cut rearward 7" to allow my Toybox to fit and your setup will help stiffen the floor.
I don't want the tank in the cab so I will likely remove my filler neck and patch the cab corner smooth. On second thought, I'll just weld the holes shut and leave the notch in the cab there.
Are you welding through all those holes in the plate into the floor?
- Thread starter
- #344
From you, a comlpement to be sure.
I too had to enlarge (lengthen) the floor cutout. I've removed a section of the under floor bracing and one of the next things is to add back some supports under the floor. One issue there is that the clearance from floor to t-case is mightly small so I need to do some more figuring...
I also may add back a smaller bench between the vertical supports, probably 2" high and 2" deep to match the other supports. Basically, it will look like a smaller "bench".
I was going to leave mine as well, however if you drop a line straight down from the inner lip of the cab's corner to the gas filler area, you will see that the filler area protrudes into the cab further than this inner lip. In my case, the rear bar I bent up (57-3/4" outside to outside IIRC) now contacts the gas filler area. So, I will need to do something. There is so little room in the cab that I don't want to bend up a narrower bar. Therefore, the filler will need to be modified or removed. If I do end up with a tank in the cab then I wanted to keep the gas filler in this same area.
Once the cage is complete, its my intent that it can still be removed/reinstalled for paint, etc. I did not want to make it permanent or have to cut it out.
Yes, already done it. I think I over did it with the number of holes.
I thought about bolting and using a body panel adhesive instead of welding but I was afraid I would not get it all together in time before the adhesive set up. As well, I've never used the body adhesive before so I decided to weld. The whitish stuff at the back wall is "fast n firm" body sealant. I ran a bead then laid down the plate. It will take some welding heat once its set up.By the way, the holes are drilled through the plate and the floor. Then I'm welding onto the 2x4 under the cab and filling the hole in the plate. I'm also planning to add another "L" piece to the back side of the cab that will attach the 2x4 to the cab. Pictures of this later.
I sprayed all hidden areas with SEM "copper weld" to help prevent corrosion between the panels. Once the fab is done, any exposed copper weld will be sanded off and I'll use the epoxy primer I've used on the other body areas. Then seal remaining seams with the fast n firm before final paint.
I plan to shoot both sides of the floor with a sound control material or a bed liner.
- Thread starter
- #345
I have the floor plate welded through to the under cab rear support and body mount support.
To weld in the corner supports, I first bent up some sheet to make a 90 angle and then shaped that piece in the stretcher to match the curve of the corner support.
To weld in the corner supports, I first bent up some sheet to make a 90 angle and then shaped that piece in the stretcher to match the curve of the corner support.
- Thread starter
- #346
Next, I positioned and then welded this to the floor.
- Thread starter
- #347
Now I positioned the corner support and welded it in. I made a device to help hold the corner support where I wanted it while welding.
- Thread starter
- #348
Fully welded and cleaned up.
- Thread starter
- #349
Next I started to lay out the new floor bracing for under the cab where I removed part of the original. I had to remove this in order to enlarge the drivetrain opening. I drew out the new opening on cardboard and then layed down the piece I cut out. I using 1.5" square thinwall to make a new floor support. I'm marking where I'll cut the new metal and the original support so that I can graft it back together.
- Thread starter
- #350
Original support is cut and now fitting 1.5" square. I also added small pieces where I cut the original and will be welding it back together. This will allow the piece to be slipped into what's still on the cab instead of just having a butt fit/weld.
Wow, that looks great.
Nice and clean.
Nice and clean.
Awl_TEQ
Supporting Vendor
DITTO!
Thanks for the photos and play by play. When I can't work on mine I can at least look at yours.
Thanks for the photos and play by play. When I can't work on mine I can at least look at yours.
- Thread starter
- #354
Have the new floor braces welded in. Here's the opening in the floor. Several inches inches longer than stock to accomodate the longer drive train.
- Thread starter
- #355
A coouple shots from the underside.
- Thread starter
- #356
Transmission cover will need to be stretched to cover the new opening. Hate to cut this one up. Thinking about making a whole new one but have not decided yet.
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Haven't checked into this thread in a LONG time. Your approach to 'solving' the rollbar issue may become the 'standard' for 45 owners, making you the PIONEER!
Very Mike.
On the trans tunnel cover, since you have to build/modify, I urge you to consider inverting the forward section on the driver's side, getting the vertical drop to start more or less alongside the transmission. This should yield 3 or 4" of foot space in that overly crowded area between the gas pedal and the hump.
I WILL make that mod to my 45 one of these days.
Best
Mark A.
Very
Mike.On the trans tunnel cover, since you have to build/modify, I urge you to consider inverting the forward section on the driver's side, getting the vertical drop to start more or less alongside the transmission. This should yield 3 or 4" of foot space in that overly crowded area between the gas pedal and the hump.
I WILL make that mod to my 45 one of these days.
Best
Mark A.
That, is some great fab work.
Thank you for showing us less qualified builders some insights.
Thank you for showing us less qualified builders some insights.
- Thread starter
- #360
Thanks Mark. I went through dozens of designs in my head and on paper before deciding on this one. I think it turned out good although not quite finished yet. I still need to add the rear wall bracing.Haven't checked into this thread in a LONG time. Your approach to 'solving' the rollbar issue may become the 'standard' for 45 owners, making you the PIONEER!
Very
On the trans tunnel cover, since you have to build/modify, I urge you to consider inverting the forward section on the driver's side, getting the vertical drop to start more or less alongside the transmission. This should yield 3 or 4" of foot space in that overly crowded area between the gas pedal and the hump.
I WILL make that mod to my 45 one of these days.
This is another reason why I'm considering making a new one. THe new one will be as flat to the floor and the firewall as possible to give the most leg room. Modifying the old one would be easier than making a new one but hey, why do it the easy way.
