- Thread starter
- #301
Just a few more. One of some of the small parts I've been cleaning up getting ready for paint. and a couple of the cab top.
1964 FJ45 LB “RB1” Project
- Thread starter miker
- Start date
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Awl_TEQ
Supporting Vendor
Looking awesome Mike... I can't wait til mine is in primer. I find once a guy sprays the primer it finally looks like something is completed. Must be cause it's all one color and no rust, nice and clean.
Mike,
Any update on the project - looking forward to seeing more of your great work.
Do you have any advice on forming the main rear sill structure (the straight part) on an FJ40 and what kind of brake, etc. (machine) would be required. The main beam/curved horns (on my 78) seem to be 14 ga (with the 18 ga cover skin under the doors). I'm trying to use what I can from the old sill - weld the curved horns to a new structure, use old brackets, etc. Could these 2 channel parts, with their little 90 degree step, be formed on a standard 48" hand brake, or would it require something more special? Thanks for any feedback and please excuse my ignorance when it comes to sheet metal work. i thought you might be a good person to ask.
Gus
Any update on the project - looking forward to seeing more of your great work.
Do you have any advice on forming the main rear sill structure (the straight part) on an FJ40 and what kind of brake, etc. (machine) would be required. The main beam/curved horns (on my 78) seem to be 14 ga (with the 18 ga cover skin under the doors). I'm trying to use what I can from the old sill - weld the curved horns to a new structure, use old brackets, etc. Could these 2 channel parts, with their little 90 degree step, be formed on a standard 48" hand brake, or would it require something more special? Thanks for any feedback and please excuse my ignorance when it comes to sheet metal work. i thought you might be a good person to ask.
Gus
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- Thread starter
- #304
Hi Gus,
No progress on the 45 since the last post. My 40 needed a new engine so I spent time and money on that. Also been doing a little bit of wheeling. I hope to get back to the 45 sometime this month.
I've never made a rear sill but do know that many others have made them from 2x2 square tube. I think however, these were earlier tubs without the edge relief or step like your '78.
I have the bender I made for fabbing parts for the 45. It is long enough but the issue would be how close together the bends are for the steps in that piece as well as the thickness (14ga).
You could make the 14ga sill from a piece of square stock and another piece of flat strap or rectangle if you can find the right dimensions. Then cover the 2 piece sill with the bed patch piece. I can't tell how far down the bed patch piece goes from your picture but if it does not cover the seam of a 2 piece sill then you could use an auto body seam sealer at the joint.
If you want to make the drive, you are welcome to use my bender. It will do the 18ga but again, the 14ga is another matter depending on how long of a piece you need.
The 3 bends for the step would probably have to be done a little at a time in order to avoid interference with the bed of the bender.
I can't picture how this could be done on a brake. Not saying it isn't possible, I just can't picture how to do it in my head without interference.
I think making the sill from two pieces of sheet might also work. See picture below.
You might also want to ask Awl_TEQ. Kevin is a master at fabbing metal.
No progress on the 45 since the last post. My 40 needed a new engine so I spent time and money on that. Also been doing a little bit of wheeling. I hope to get back to the 45 sometime this month.
I've never made a rear sill but do know that many others have made them from 2x2 square tube. I think however, these were earlier tubs without the edge relief or step like your '78.
I have the bender I made for fabbing parts for the 45. It is long enough but the issue would be how close together the bends are for the steps in that piece as well as the thickness (14ga).
You could make the 14ga sill from a piece of square stock and another piece of flat strap or rectangle if you can find the right dimensions. Then cover the 2 piece sill with the bed patch piece. I can't tell how far down the bed patch piece goes from your picture but if it does not cover the seam of a 2 piece sill then you could use an auto body seam sealer at the joint.
If you want to make the drive, you are welcome to use my bender. It will do the 18ga but again, the 14ga is another matter depending on how long of a piece you need.
The 3 bends for the step would probably have to be done a little at a time in order to avoid interference with the bed of the bender.
I can't picture how this could be done on a brake. Not saying it isn't possible, I just can't picture how to do it in my head without interference.
I think making the sill from two pieces of sheet might also work. See picture below.
You might also want to ask Awl_TEQ. Kevin is a master at fabbing metal.
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Awl_TEQ
Supporting Vendor
Good to see this thread moving again - albeit in a lateral direction 
Gus, I can certainly make that profile with the step in 14 ga. I don't have a 40 handy so I can't measure one up. If you give me some dimensions I can check the clearances on my press and figure out the bend sequence to make sure. I would need the outside length of each face in the profile as well as the length you want it.
You can PM me or post in my "I can make" thread.
Kevin
Gus, I can certainly make that profile with the step in 14 ga. I don't have a 40 handy so I can't measure one up. If you give me some dimensions I can check the clearances on my press and figure out the bend sequence to make sure. I would need the outside length of each face in the profile as well as the length you want it.
You can PM me or post in my "I can make" thread.
Kevin
Awl_TEQ
Supporting Vendor
I just went and looked again - you have all the dims I would need.
Thanks Mike for all your help - look forward to seeing the 45 start up again. Sounds like you've been able to relax a little anyway which is always good.
I thought about welding 14 ga flats with simple bends too - although my design was not as clean and simple as yours.
I'm trying to stay as close to stock as possible, so Awl_TEQ sounds like a good way to go - much appreciated contact info.
Thanks again,
Gus
Kevin,
Can you PM (or I can PM you my email, etc.) me with an estimate of cost for the 14 ga piece with an 18 ga cover. I can work up some more detailed drawings, cross cut scan the original @ 100%, etc. Off the top of my head I think the length is around 41" (ambulance doors width area) - I need to double check that and everything else.
Any way you could make that little "indent" where the bottom door latch goes?
Shipping would be to Bay Area, CA 94065.
Thanks,
Gus
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Miker,
I have a '65 long bed like yours. Did toyota use lead based paint in '65. How did you strip the paint off of yours? I ask rather than search because my computer is horribly slow.
How do you decide whether to strip paint of paint over. I Know parts of my truch have 2 coats at least.
Nice work, thanks for any input.
Martin
I have a '65 long bed like yours. Did toyota use lead based paint in '65. How did you strip the paint off of yours? I ask rather than search because my computer is horribly slow.
How do you decide whether to strip paint of paint over. I Know parts of my truch have 2 coats at least.
Nice work, thanks for any input.
Martin
- Thread starter
- #310
I would guess that it does contain lead since its 45 years old. I stripped parts a number of ways using both chemical and mechanical. I also paid to have some media blasting done. When I stripped using mechanical methods I generally used a respirator. I had a lot of rust spots on my truck so that's why I decided to strip it to bare metal.
Paying someone to media clast the parts is a really a good way to go as long as they are experienced in stripping body panels or cars. For the time, and money I spent on materials, as well as the mess it made stripping some of the parts, it probably would have been quicker and cheaper in the long run to just hire out all the paint and rust removal.
Paying someone to media clast the parts is a really a good way to go as long as they are experienced in stripping body panels or cars. For the time, and money I spent on materials, as well as the mess it made stripping some of the parts, it probably would have been quicker and cheaper in the long run to just hire out all the paint and rust removal.
- Thread starter
- #311
Long time since last post...
...and I haven't made too much progress.
-debated (myself) on the opening for the drive train and finally decided on how deep I needed to go into the floor of teh cab. I wanted the drivetrain to be as high as possible to avoid a low skidplate. Seemed like a good thing with a longer wheelbase.
-the opening still needs to be finished with some welding and grinding.
-a floor brace needs to be fabbed up and welded on the uderside of the cab.
-extra holes need to be welded up and ground down.
-tunnel cover will need to be extended to cover the larger opening.
-nuts will need to be placed under the cab floor for the longer cover.
The drive train is SBC, 700r4, Toybox, Land Cruiser 1-piece case. I will go with an orion. Using a stock case for fitment.
Pictures show front motor mounts. Frame scab plates 3/16" have been welded on. Using large Ford truck motor mounts #2050. These have a steel locator on the bottom so they are "locked" into the frame mounts. Its about a 1-1/8" hole. Under the frame mounts are additional rubber donuts. Using 5/8" bolts and nylocks. Need to buy some shorter bolts, these are too long. Extra material will be cut off the piece that bolts to the motor.
Right now, mounts are clamped into place. Deciding if I will weld, bolt, or do both.
Pictures also show transfer case mount in process. This is a heavyduty Marlin mount on the Toybox and I'm building a cross-member. Probably use spring bushing mounts on the frame for a little more flex. I didn't really like how low the mount will be but its just a bit lower than the botton of the transfercase and I know the orion is a pinch deeper than the stock case I'm using for mockup so it should be fine and not unnecessarily low.
...and I haven't made too much progress.
-debated (myself) on the opening for the drive train and finally decided on how deep I needed to go into the floor of teh cab. I wanted the drivetrain to be as high as possible to avoid a low skidplate. Seemed like a good thing with a longer wheelbase.
-the opening still needs to be finished with some welding and grinding.
-a floor brace needs to be fabbed up and welded on the uderside of the cab.
-extra holes need to be welded up and ground down.
-tunnel cover will need to be extended to cover the larger opening.
-nuts will need to be placed under the cab floor for the longer cover.
The drive train is SBC, 700r4, Toybox, Land Cruiser 1-piece case. I will go with an orion. Using a stock case for fitment.
Pictures show front motor mounts. Frame scab plates 3/16" have been welded on. Using large Ford truck motor mounts #2050. These have a steel locator on the bottom so they are "locked" into the frame mounts. Its about a 1-1/8" hole. Under the frame mounts are additional rubber donuts. Using 5/8" bolts and nylocks. Need to buy some shorter bolts, these are too long. Extra material will be cut off the piece that bolts to the motor.
Right now, mounts are clamped into place. Deciding if I will weld, bolt, or do both.
Pictures also show transfer case mount in process. This is a heavyduty Marlin mount on the Toybox and I'm building a cross-member. Probably use spring bushing mounts on the frame for a little more flex. I didn't really like how low the mount will be but its just a bit lower than the botton of the transfercase and I know the orion is a pinch deeper than the stock case I'm using for mockup so it should be fine and not unnecessarily low.
- Thread starter
- #312
Drivetrain opening...
- Thread starter
- #313
Transfercase x-member (in progress)...
73fj
Tho at sumbitch in ayer!
Wow! Super impressive, especially your homemade press brake. You do very nice work.
subscribed 
Been following for a while now. I know you have a lot left, but I can't wait to see its first drive
- Thread starter
- #317
I finished the crossmember using the rectangle tube but then didn't like how low it hung below the Toybox so I built a new one this time eliminating the lower-half of the mount and incorporating this into the crossmember. What this does is keep the crossmember up as high as the mount and also eliminate any bolt heads or hardware protruding out the bottom. I used springs bushings at the frame to mount it. I may need to clearance the crossmember for some additional transfer case clearance to allow for movement of the drive train but I think this design might work better than the first one I started.
I also spent some time on building a shifter for the t-case. I used the stock t-case linkage parts I had laying around from a '76 or so cruiser, and then fabbed up a few brackets to mount the t-case shifter to the toybox/adapter. The toybox shifter will come out the top of the toybox, this shifter is not installed in the pictures but you can see the top loader hole.
I picked up a bender for a price hat I could not refuse and have started work on the roll cage. Tubing is 1-3/4" .120 wall. I have the A and B pillars bend up and in their approximate positions in the cab. next is to figure out what seats I will use so I can determine where to integrate the seat mounts into the cage as well as the side bars, and rear cross bar. I plan to have four spreaders across the top of the cage connecting A to B pillars, and a spreader in the A pillar below the windshield as well as a spreader in the B pillar for seat belt mounts. For the cab's shelf/box at the lower rear cab floor where I removed the front panel, I have a plan on how to strenghten this area and at the same time have the cage tied into the frame. I have not started that yet, but the B pillar hoop will be bolted to the floor as shown and not on top of the shelf. Eventually, the entire step/shelf will be removed as it will not be needed.
Pictures of cross-member:
I also spent some time on building a shifter for the t-case. I used the stock t-case linkage parts I had laying around from a '76 or so cruiser, and then fabbed up a few brackets to mount the t-case shifter to the toybox/adapter. The toybox shifter will come out the top of the toybox, this shifter is not installed in the pictures but you can see the top loader hole.
I picked up a bender for a price hat I could not refuse and have started work on the roll cage. Tubing is 1-3/4" .120 wall. I have the A and B pillars bend up and in their approximate positions in the cab. next is to figure out what seats I will use so I can determine where to integrate the seat mounts into the cage as well as the side bars, and rear cross bar. I plan to have four spreaders across the top of the cage connecting A to B pillars, and a spreader in the A pillar below the windshield as well as a spreader in the B pillar for seat belt mounts. For the cab's shelf/box at the lower rear cab floor where I removed the front panel, I have a plan on how to strenghten this area and at the same time have the cage tied into the frame. I have not started that yet, but the B pillar hoop will be bolted to the floor as shown and not on top of the shelf. Eventually, the entire step/shelf will be removed as it will not be needed.
Pictures of cross-member:
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- Thread starter
- #318
A poor picture of the shifter linkage and mount: 
- Thread starter
- #319
Finally, a few of the beginning of the in-cab roll cage:
Nice, Mike!!
