- Thread starter
- #201
Thanks. I was trying to get as much done as possible. I tore my rotator cuff all the way through and need surgery. Tomorrow is the day, so that will slow me down for several months it appears. It's always something.
Builds 1958 project Sundune (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Indygbd
- Start date
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I feel for you. I’m having my rotator cuff repaired 1 week from tomorrow!
- Thread starter
- #203
I will give you some pointers.
middlecalf
SILVER Star
@Indygbd hope your feeling better and able to get back to this build.
@tahoe40/45 isn’t this switch on cityracer’s site for brake pressure, not engine oil pressure? Has anyone used this for an engine oil pressure switch? I’m using a Beck/Arnley switch (201-04052) which works in that with no pressure (ignition switch on) the idiot light is on and when running the light is off. But after the engine is fully warmed up and running at low rpms the light flickers on and off, and when the engine has been driven a fair bit it even lights up when up to 2k rpms. I’m running 7qts of 10-w30 Shell Rotella T4. Can’t find the pressure specs for the Beck/Arnley switch, was hoping to find something that would have a lower low pressure threshold. I can tolerate the light flickering at idle, but it’s annoying at 2k rpms
. Funny that Toyota went from oil pressure gauge (25) to idiot light (early 40) back to oil pressure.
Nice collection of parts!! Cant wait to see them all bolted on.
I saw your oil presser sensor and was wondering if your gage cluster has a idiot light or gage for the oil pressure? If you have the light your going to need this.
OEM Brake Pressure Warning Switch for Land Cruiser FJ40 FJ45 FJ55
OEM brake pressure warning switch that fits on the bottom of the master cylinder for '71 to '80 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40, FJ45, FJ55. Part number 84390-30011. Price is for 1 switch.www.cityracerllc.com
@tahoe40/45 isn’t this switch on cityracer’s site for brake pressure, not engine oil pressure? Has anyone used this for an engine oil pressure switch? I’m using a Beck/Arnley switch (201-04052) which works in that with no pressure (ignition switch on) the idiot light is on and when running the light is off. But after the engine is fully warmed up and running at low rpms the light flickers on and off, and when the engine has been driven a fair bit it even lights up when up to 2k rpms. I’m running 7qts of 10-w30 Shell Rotella T4. Can’t find the pressure specs for the Beck/Arnley switch, was hoping to find something that would have a lower low pressure threshold. I can tolerate the light flickering at idle, but it’s annoying at 2k rpms
. Funny that Toyota went from oil pressure gauge (25) to idiot light (early 40) back to oil pressure.
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tahoe40/45
SILVER Star
Yes switch is officially a brake pressure switch, i cant remember where i got the idea to use that switch, but seems to work. I have one on my 1960 FJ25 with a rebuilt engine and light never comes on. I also have one on my 1963 FJ45 that has a leaky engine, and when i get low on oil it comes on. Not saying that it works officially correct. But does give me some info on oil situation. I'll try to find out where i got the idea and let you know.@Indygbd hope your feeling better and able to get back to this build.
@tahoe40/45 isn’t this switch on cityracer’s site for brake pressure, not engine oil pressure? Has anyone used this for an engine oil pressure switch? I’m using a Beck/Arnley switch (201-04052) which works in that with no pressure (ignition switch on) the idiot light is on and when running the light is off. But after the engine is fully warmed up and running at low rpms the light flickers on and off, and when the engine has been driven a fair bit it even lights up when up to 2k rpms. I’m running 7qts of 10-w30 Shell Rotella T4. Can’t find the pressure specs for the Beck/Arnley switch, was hoping to find something that would have a higher low pressure threshold. I can tolerate the light flickering at idle, but it’s annoying at 2k rpms
EDIT: correct part number for oil pressure switch 83530-60030
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middlecalf
SILVER Star
Thanks @tahoe40/45 !
middlecalf
SILVER Star
The Toyota switch from cityracer doesn’t work, or it needs a lot more pressure to turn off than my rig puts out (ran it to 2000 rpm). Light comes on with ignition but doesn’t go out when running. I have a mechanical gauge that maybe I’ll plum in and see what it says for pressure, but it must generate some pressure as the Beck/Arnley switch goes off almost immediately when running.
scoobiedubes
SILVER Star
This seems to be about the most difficult 20 series part to find. Going to look awfully nice under that dash!
The FA90 ones seem easy enough to find - Nippon Denso Flasher 12V NOS 61300-037-0 FA90 58200 | eBay - https://www.ebay.com/itm/394347913973. I suspect with the correct wattage bulbs it could be made to work until the elusive one is found. At least it is the closest thing to correct beside the original RS20 type
- Thread starter
- #211
Great option however it it would probably flash very slow or fast compared to what it should. Plus what fun would that be? You have to track down the correct parts. That’s one of the most enjoyable parts of restoring a vehicle.
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scoobiedubes
SILVER Star
Curious does yours have the embossed RK number below that decal? I’ve never seen a new one, wonder if they all had a sticker at some point like that.
I agree fully that the fun lies in finding the correct part. However, no sense in not having anything work or using a generic part when the FA90 one is not very expensive in the greater scheme. 10 minutes to swop out to the correct one once found.
If you compare the watt ratings on both, only dash indicator bulbs need to be dropped from 15w to 6w and function should be normal.
- Thread starter
- #214
I have not pulled the cover to check yet. My guess is that the embossed one was original in the late 50’s. Then they made a newer version with decal. I will let you know.
Very nice.
scoobiedubes
SILVER Star
Those are beauties!