12th Batteries specs?

[rideglobally]

I have 2 batteries connected parallel for a 12 volt set up. I am told my batteries are bad. Since I need to replace them, what is the proper battery specifications for a 12th engine? Thank you

 

[bigredmachine]

if you can still read the label there should be a group size listed on the battery

 

[rideglobally]

if you can still read the label there should be a group size listed on the battery

These are not the original batteries. Since I am getting new once I want to make sure I got the correct batteries. Thx

 

[bigredmachine]

makes sense

 

[vipergrhd]

Maybe start with getting dimension of your batteries and how much space you have and start with a small group like a 65 or group 27.

 

[cruiserpilot]

I have 2 batteries connected parallel for a 12 volt set up. I am told my batteries are bad. Since I need to replace them, what is the proper battery specifications for a 12th engine? Thank you

What size have you removed? Normal spec is Series 27 as you have them set up in parallel. In batteries,
bigger is better. Cold cranking amps minimum would be 675. I run Series 31 Interstate in parallel with my 12HT.
Cold Cranking Amps 675 Cranking Amps 845. I don’t know the difference. Unlike 24V systems the batteries don’t have to be matched, but I would only ever buy in pairs. That’s just me. Series 27 batteries are not really any different in cranking specifications, just less reserve.
Where are you at now? I just got back from up North, Negative Rectifier plate on that new 120A alternator
actually broke right in two!!! Weird…..but I drove home for 3 days with no alternator, everything electrical off.
Proof of concept of mechanical 12HT proven!

 

[rideglobally]

I am in Asilah Morocco. Woke up and my batteries dropped to 4.6 volts Weird. I have Optima batteries less than 2 years old. My alternator works now but I been without alternator for almost 1.5 years. I was charging them everyday. That migth have killed them. The bush mechanic says they are ok but I am suspicious. They charge them and started my engine last nite. I will check if there is a significant voltage drop today before I move on.thx

 

[sodafeld1]

Sounds like you have a parasite drain somewhere or your alternator is not doing a full job. Smart Battery chargers like the ctek are good as they have recondition cycles with peak loads for specific periods. It is a much more comprehensive charge than what an alternator does. You should not have to charge the batteries from a separate source everyday and simply is a pia.

Speaking from a 2h and old tractor prospective, the Rule of thumb is as big as what will fit! The more cca, cold crank amps, the easier the engine starts, the starter shall only draw what it needs. Group 27 or 31, sounds about right. There is a myriad of battery choices some swear by caterpillar, some optima..some recommend dual purpose cca and deep cycle combined, like yellow top optima or marine batteries.

I tend to separate my starter battery from my aux battery with a solenoid. Even bypassed my driving lights wiring to run off the aux instead of the starter battery. That way I kind of cheap out on my starter and get something run of the mill with good cca (at least 700+cca), you can get 1000cca) but I spend up on the aux which is a dual purpose, just in case my starter battery dies I can still use my aux to start. At present I have a yellow top which is pretty good so far 3-4 years for my aux. I think batteries use to be better in the past though, would last 8 years+.

Most battery companies would have your engine listed and matching battery, or battery dealer. If you ask which brand ?, that opens a big can of worms. Companies change ownership rapidly.

I can imagine the alternator/regulator trouble you recently had caused battery problems. Probably did stress your batteries.

In my old bj40 my regulator fried at night once, the lights went really bright for awhile then the alternator fried then the batteries stopped charging, then the lights went dimmer progressively as my batteries lost charge and then, they also died...it got expensive for something easily monitored with a cig lighter volt meter, one for each battery. Reg, alternator, batteries$,$,$. I learnt a good lesson from all that.
If you do not monitor alternator charge you risk killing your batteries. They should never get as low as 4.6v, if the battery gets so frequently drained it shall shorten it's life span. Many batteries have a memory, so if left discharged , it remembers the low voltage as being full. You want them fully charged all the time. Constant vigilance!

 

[cruiserpilot]

I am in Asilah Morocco. Woke up and my batteries dropped to 4.6 volts Weird. I have Optima batteries less than 2 years old. My alternator works now but I been without alternator for almost 1.5 years. I was charging them everyday. That migth have killed them. The bush mechanic says they are ok but I am suspicious. They charge them and started my engine last nite. I will check if there is a significant voltage drop today before I move on.thx

Are they lead acid? You’re way outside the world of smart batteries. Just a decent pair of lead acid
batteries. I’ve never liked Optima. Size matters in batteries. Not using an alternator to condition the
batteries with controlled charge and then charging at nights? You should have used deep cycle batteries
designed for that. There is a difference between starting and deep cycle batteries. Mixed use and they
won’t last as long.

 

[rideglobally]

Sounds like you have a parasite drain somewhere or your alternator is not doing a full job. Smart Battery chargers like the ctek are good as they have recondition cycles with peak loads for specific periods. It is a much more comprehensive charge than what an alternator does. You should not have to charge the batteries from a separate source everyday and simply is a pia.

Speaking from a 2h and old tractor prospective, the Rule of thumb is as big as what will fit! The more cca, cold crank amps, the easier the engine starts, the starter shall only draw what it needs. Group 27 or 31, sounds about right. There is a myriad of battery choices some swear by caterpillar, some optima..some recommend dual purpose cca and deep cycle combined, like yellow top optima or marine batteries.

I tend to separate my starter battery from my aux battery with a solenoid. Even bypassed my driving lights wiring to run off the aux instead of the starter battery. That way I kind of cheap out on my starter and get something run of the mill with good cca (at least 700+cca), you can get 1000cca) but I spend up on the aux which is a dual purpose, just in case my starter battery dies I can still use my aux to start. At present I have a yellow top which is pretty good so far 3-4 years for my aux. I think batteries use to be better in the past though, would last 8 years+.

Most battery companies would have your engine listed and matching battery, or battery dealer. If you ask which brand ?, that opens a big can of worms. Companies change ownership rapidly.

I can imagine the alternator/regulator trouble you recently had caused battery problems. Probably did stress your batteries.

In my old bj40 my regulator fried at night once, the lights went really bright for awhile then the alternator fried then the batteries stopped charging, then the lights went dimmer progressively as my batteries lost charge and then, they also died...it got expensive for something easily monitored with a cig lighter volt meter, one for each battery. Reg, alternator, batteries$,$,$. I learnt a good lesson from all that.
If you do not monitor alternator charge you risk killing your batteries. They should never get as low as 4.6v, if the battery gets so frequently drained it shall shorten it's life span. Many batteries have a memory, so if left discharged , it remembers the low voltage as being full. You want them fully charged all the time. Constant vigilance!

Wow! This set up is above my pay grade. But sounds good thx for the battery advice. Currently my batteries seems to be doing good. I will go for 31 if I end up changing them.

 

[rideglobally]

Are they lead acid? You’re way outside the world of smart batteries. Just a decent pair of lead acid
batteries. I’ve never liked Optima. Size matters in batteries. Not using an alternator to condition the
batteries with controlled charge and then charging at nights? You should have used deep cycle batteries
designed for that. There is a difference between starting and deep cycle batteries. Mixed use and they
won’t last as long.

Thx sorry to hear about your alternator.

 

[cruiserpilot]

Thx sorry to hear about your alternator.

Ah, it's getting fixed. How a rectifier plate can actually break at the bend to the stud connection is unbelievable.
Life goes on. Person could never carry a spare one of those, right? But I will be making sure i have spare regulators
at least for future. But it kept those giant FYRLYT MOFO12000's running all night, so that's all that matters.

 

[sodafeld1]

Are they lead acid? You’re way outside the world of smart batteries. Just a decent pair of lead acid
batteries. I’ve never liked Optima. Size matters in batteries. Not using an alternator to condition the
batteries with controlled charge and then charging at nights? You should have used deep cycle batteries
designed for that. There is a difference between starting and deep cycle batteries. Mixed use and they
won’t last as long.

smart charger not smart batteries. Smart chargers work on lead acid batteries which are better at reconditioning lead batteries than old style trickle chargers.
There is dual purpose lead batteries which are start (cca) combined with deep cycle.

 

[cruiserpilot]

Ah, should have read it better. I use smart chargers, got a bunch of CTek. They are great!
There are dual purpose, but I believe selection is limited in Morocco? Maybe?

 

[sodafeld1]

Ah, should have read it better. I use smart chargers, got a bunch of CTek. They are great!
There are dual purpose, but I believe selection is limited in Morocco? Maybe?

I reckon Morocco would have marine batteries. You would be even more buggered at sea without batteries. ctek is good

 

[rideglobally]

smart charger not smart batteries. Smart chargers work on lead acid batteries which are better at reconditioning lead batteries than old style trickle chargers.
There is dual purpose lead batteries which are start (cca) combined with deep cycle.

Maybe difficult to get her but I will look into it when I am in the big city. Thx