<-- (2 Viewers)

[cruiserpilot]

You know factory Toyota belts for the 12HT are available at Toyota. At a reasonable
price no less.

 

[seapotato]

You know factory Toyota belts for the 12HT are available at Toyota. At a reasonable
price no less.

These are as good or better. Industrial belts run 24/7 for a couple years before wearing out. For a truck that runs less than 2 hours a day, that's a long time.
I see no reason to go out of my way for whatever belt company Toyota rebrands..

Point is, I had the correct factory belt and it didn't fit right.

Now I know why

 

[cruiserpilot]

I just looked at the label. Didn’t recognize it

 

[seapotato]

I just looked at the label. Didn’t recognize it

Yeah it's just a generic belt. Nothing special. Been using them on my cruisers since the 90's. B42 is all that matters and easier to remember than the Toyota number.

I've had real Toyota ones from time to time too, but I don't think they lasted any longer, so I haven't really worried about it.

I don't think they work very hard on these things.



Found a cricket in the bottom drawer I didn't remember I had.

Had to dig to find an actual tension number. Really was just curious how close my thumb got it.
Not very close apparently.

Toyota want 125lbs , I was nowhere near that... barely 50 when I ran out of adjustment. That'd do it.

Probably the reason the old one was chirping a bit when cold was because I couldn't get it tight enough.

 

[cruiserpilot]

That’s a cool tool. I’ve always been concerned that I overtighten fan belts. I’ve been
told it’s very hard to do that but isn’t a measurement of deflection also a means of
correct tension?

 

[stevebradford]

Both you all’s are nuts, anal retentive, obsessive or some other type of undiagnosed disability. I replace belts daily, just tight enough it doesn’t slip is the goal that way there’s not excess load on bearings.

Also Seapotato is right Toyota doesn’t make belts. They rebrand some other industrial manufacturers belts, all other brand belts I have used have been great and lasted years.

Cool tool by the way, never seen one before.

 

[seapotato]

Both you all’s are nuts, anal retentive, obsessive or some other type of undiagnosed disability. I replace belts daily, just tight enough it doesn’t slip is the goal that way there’s not excess load on bearings.

Also Seapotato is right Toyota doesn’t make belts. They rebrand some other industrial manufacturers belts, all other brand belts I have used have been great and lasted years.

Cool tool by the way, never seen one before.
View attachment 2804215

Haha, I've never used it before either. Not even sure where it came from. I sure as hell didn't buy it..

I always just made them tight enough to stop flapping, but then found this thing and it got me curious. Felt the need to calibrate my thumb.

I change a billion or so belts at work too.

Roll em in and maybe someone else did the thinking.

 

[seapotato]

That’s a cool tool. I’ve always been concerned that I overtighten fan belts. I’ve been
told it’s very hard to do that but isn’t a measurement of deflection also a means of
correct tension?

Yeah that's pretty much how this thing works. Can borrow it sometime if you want to calibrate your thumb

Interestingly, Toyota calls a new belt one that's run for 5 minutes or less. After 5 minutes its used.

I was surprised how tight 125lbs was. Maybe because there's 3 sheaves involved. Less belt to sheave interaction when the 360 is divided by 3.


And now that's more thought than I've ever given a fan belt in 20 odd years

 

[cruiserpilot]

Well, neither one of you works on nor should you work on airplanes. Cause I can tell you it is important and it is measureable as I’ve actually helped in the past. But then again you’re standing on earth when your belts fail.

 

[stevebradford]

Agreed! my job is also too far above the earth for my liking, where humans were meant to be on 4wheels, not in a flying tin can (speaking of my job, not at all yours)

 

[stevebradford]

Since we like talking about belts so much. There’s a old automotive trick some of you probably already know to get rid of belt chirping.

After doing millions of laps pulleys get polished like a mirror on the belt contact zone. When the belt wears smooth and compresses in the v grove they chirp together. Belt dressing is for beginners, you also can very carefully use a wire brush to rough up the belt, this will only temporarily stop the chirp. The best way to deal with it is to use a fine sandpaper and dress the polished pulleys contact surface where the v belt rides so it’s no longer smooth like a mirror.

 

[seapotato]

At my work a lot of the sheaves are original 1964 equipment and have been running 24/7 ever since. You can feel the grooves in them with your finger.

The belts stick slightly in the grooves so they get pulled in past where they should loose contact. Makes them flap like crazy, especially when the two sheaves are 4 feet apart like the bigger ex fans.

Looong ass belts. But as I said, 2 pulleys so each sees 180 degrees of contact (or thereabouts) so lots of grip.



I dunno tho. I think if I worked on airplanes there'd be a lot less of them in the sky.

 

[stevebradford]

Like one of my idlers, if only I knew someone with a lathe to cut it down a bit..

 

[bikersmurf]

View attachment 2805021

Like one of my idlers, if only I knew someone with a lathe to cut it down a bit..

Drill press and a single cut file. Or add in an angle grinder with sandpaper or a flap disc. It’s not rocket science…

 

[seapotato]

Drill press and a single cut file. Or add in an angle grinder with sandpaper or a flap disc. It’s not rocket science…

Yeah, but this is way more fun. Now has a chuck that's under a hundred years old and considerably less worn out.

This was me checking runout... not bad for something that might have made parts for the Titanic.

 

[seapotato]

Got tired of snooping ****ers peering into the back of the cruiser.

So I decided to make use of something that's been in the shed since I owned an 80... 2010 maybe?


Pattern

Have I mentioned starboard is good s***?

Screwed into the flange that holds the panels, so if I decide I don't like this thing it'll be easy to make it go away without extra visible holes.

Those straps for holding the seats folded that no one EVER uses worked ok.

Fits ok considering it was made for an 80.

 

[seapotato]

So this was a revolting development.

Got most of the way to work a couple days ago, and the temperature gauge started doing uncool things with the smell of antifreeze.

Water puking out of the upper rad hose ( or so I thought)

When I pulled the hose off, the upper nipple was half full of green goo, so apparently there's been some electrolysis going on.

Outlet pipe didn't look like that 2 months ago when I installed the rad after it was rebuilt, so this happened pretty quickly.

Anyways, sleeved it with some brass and soldered and now it doesn't leak.

Kindof annoying, tank looks ok inside, so I'm hoping it just started chewing on the smaller brass piece, but still probably took a few years off it's life expectancy.

Found this site where they suggest a test with a multimeter between battery negative and the rad fluid to check for voltage.

Curious to see what number I get.

Guessing it won't be zero.

Northern Radiator | Electrolysis 101

www.northernradiator.com

Some time later....







Site above says anything over .3v is too much, safe to say I rang that bell.

Engine was still hot when I got home this morning, so I didn't pull the rad cap to dip the contact, but I figure that's close enough.

When I pulled the ground off the battery, that jumped to 24v.

I added another main ground from the engine to the frame, this time from where the battery neg attaches.

Better but still too much.

Didn't get a zero until I added this little one to the battery hold down.

This was all done in a bit of a hurry this morning when I got home from work, because I didn't have a lot of time, but this weekend I'll be crawling around and freshening up every ground I can find.

Guessing it's a combo of the main ground losing contact, and that the truck has been underwater for the past month commuting in a freaking monsoon. Everything got soaked.


I'm curious to do that same test to the other truck and see what I get.
With all the rusty cruisers I've had with dodgy wiring over the years, you'd think this would have happened before.


I think this is a check I'm going to start doing more often when I have the hood up, because that electrolysis happened in less than two months, and there were no symptoms until water started pissing out.

 

[bcsteel]

Thanks for that. Simple check and easy fix. I’ll be looking at this tomorrow morning.

 

[seapotato]

Thanks for that. Simple check and easy fix. I’ll be looking at this tomorrow morning.

Yeah, kinda crazy how fast it went. They say to dip the + probe in the fluid, I haven't tried that but I'd be curious if it made a difference.

One of the things I didn't really think about when I flipped the harness, the main ground went to the other side of the engine, but I didn't move the strap from the frame to the block. Didn't seem like a big deal at the time.

New paint on the engine, and then the paint on the rad probably played a part too.

Rad is mounted with rubber isolators everywhere, but I don't remember seeing any ground straps when I took it apart?

Oh well. Hopefully I got it in time before the whole thing looks like a frenchman's underwear.

 

[seapotato]

Found the culprit. Engine to frame ground cracked. This basically conspired to nuke my rad. Or at least try to.

Didn't get a picture, I was too busy slamming the piece of s*** into the metal bin.

Think I'll add a second just to spread the love.

I think I have 3 off the lump in the 40. Checked voltage off it's rad and got a magnificent zero.

Apparently I should have paid more attention in the 60.

Meh. s*** happens.


Decided the patch was solid enough to warrant actual antifreeze today.