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[seapotato]

I've thought of yanking my A/C a few times now as it would help keep my little motor cooler while towing without that big dirty condenser blocking air flow to the rad. But with the heat this past summer, think I'll be keeping it intact! Will let the motor sweat instead of me, haha.

Nice work on the rebuild Ryan. Nice to see it all come together once you got the right parts.

Still not calling it a rebuild...



In my case, the AC didn't work before I did the left hand swap, and I didn't have any parts to make it work afterwards, so it's not much of a loss.

That bracket takes up a lot of real estate. Though about using it for an air compressor or something, but ...


On another note, any HJ61 people know which of these goes on which side?

Maybe it'll be obvious once I have the engine in place.

Even though my rear main wasn't leaking, and wasn't very old, I figured I'd put the Toyota seal in seeing as one came in the kit.

Quite a bit different from the aftermarket one . Toyota is the top one

Beck Arnley I think, although it does say made in Japan on it. Same part# for all the 80's toyota diesels near as I can tell.

 

[CenTXFJ60]

I’ve wondered about the benefits myself. From reading your thread I think we have a similar thought process. I’d love the additional power personally, but have a great appreciation for the stock setup. Want to keep these 12HT’s on the road as long as possible.

 

[seapotato]

I’ve wondered about the benefits myself. From reading your thread I think we have a similar thought process. I’d love the additional power personally, but have a great appreciation for the stock setup. Want to keep these 12HT’s on the road as long as possible.

You mean from a turbo perspective?

I've had my stock turbo at about 13-14 psi for a year or two. Took the controller out for a day and going back to the stock 7psi sucked


I've been thinking, apparently the Wink wastegate is set at about 13, and it's capable of 20+.

I have some old hvac pneumatic toggle swiches...I could install one of those so that in one position the controller is bypassed and the wastegate opens at the usual13, in the other position, everything goes plaid.

Although considering how I drive I doubt that'd be often. Slow lane getting honked at


And just because I now have to wait for an assistant to help me turn the truck around, I feel like this photo should be in slow motion with a classical soundtrack a'la space odyssey

 

[seapotato]

So much for an assistant.

 

[seapotato]

And now it's in.

Interestingly, I put the thicker frame mount bracket on the driver's side, and I have a lot more clearance between the alternator and the steering box than I did before.

Thicker one was clearly on the old driver's side before, so chalk that up to another thing that should be moved across on a LHD swap I guess.

Or, it was just in wrong before...

 

[bladedog]

Hmmm... Interesting. I have the thicker on the right/passenger side on my 2H. I think it's that way to clock the transmission whatever number of degrees it is (the transmission mount is angled for this as well). Not only is the engine not straight, it's not level either.

 

[seapotato]

Hmmm... Interesting. I have the thicker on the right/passenger side on my 2H. I think it's that way to clock the transmission whatever number of degrees it is (the transmission mount is angled for this as well). Not only is the engine not straight, it's not level either.

Could be it's supposed to go the other way.

I'll try this and see how it works, with the thin one on the driver's side my alternator was 1/4" away from the power steering line, so if it doesn't cause any weirdness under the truck, it's better.

Course it it's also going to mean the exhaust needs a little massaging...

 

[bladedog]

Yep, it's tight between alternator an PS lines... about 1/4".

 

[bladedog]

Check your rad hood as well to see if it fits right with the engine mount shims that way...

 

[seapotato]

Check your rad hood as well to see if it fits right with the engine mount shims that way...

Yeah that's next. I'm going to split the shroud so I'll be having a good look at it.

I suspect it'll be ok, because it's really just rotating the engine, not raising it. The fan is pretty much in the middle so it won't change much.

Famous last words I know...lol


My engine is actually sitting level for the first time ever...still crooked as hell, but not leaning over.

So if the shroud clears I'm really not seeing any downside yet.


That all might be for tomorrow, because there's couch moving in my future and I'm too dirty to get within 50 feet of a s***ty old couch let alone a new one

 

[bladedog]

Sooooo much fun! When I transplanted my 2H I didn't check the fan hood (ie temp install rad, blah blah blah) on tacked in engine mounts... and I should have instead of just going Gung ho and welding them in. Quick fix for the fan blades as I have a split shroud, just had to bend the lower part of the shroud away a bit. But the valve cover... removing it is a game of Jenga cause the engine is about 5mm too far back, and the lip of the valve cover doesn't clear the bracket holding the brake lines on the firewall without a whole sequence of twists and turns

 

[seapotato]

Sooooo much fun! When I transplanted my 2H I didn't check the fan hood (ie temp install rad, blah blah blah) on tacked in engine mounts... and I should have instead of just going Gung ho and welding them in. Quick fix for the fan blades as I have a split shroud, just had to bend the lower part of the shroud away a bit. But the valve cover... removing it is a game of Jenga cause the engine is about 5mm too far back, and the lip of the valve cover doesn't clear the bracket holding the brake lines on the firewall without a whole sequence of twists and turns

That valve cover thing...I know it well.

Getting that thing out is a colossal pain in the girly parts...first time I tried to take it off I didn't think it'd come. Was close to hammer time on the firewall lip

So maybe this will improve that...


I'll find out pretty quickly because I'll need to readjust the valves after a bit.

 

[CenTXFJ60]

Ryan, my DD is a transplant into a FJ60. Bladedog is correct on which side those motor mount blocks go. And unfortunately the low pressure line sits really close to the Alternator. I once ran the motor when the line was not adjusted correctly and heard all kinds of s*** before I realized the pulley was eating my line. And last time I adjusted the valves I bent the crap out of the lip overhanging from the firewall to remove the valve cover. Good news it’s no longer an issue . I have a Euro 61 (LHD) that I can look at if that would help. I’m traveling this week but can look at it when I get home Friday evening. As you said, if the fan has good clearance and you’re already heating and bending the shifter, then you should be fine.

 

[seapotato]

Haha, all good.

The engine sits better this way.

More room around the alternator and more room between the turbo and steering shaft.

I'll see today, if the tranny mount looks stressed and how it fits in the rad.

Hopefully get the rad in and plumbed today and see what happens when I turn the key...

 

[seapotato]

I picked these up a few weeks ago so I could throw a mechanical gauge on.

There were some good noises...

Was all a little nerve wracking, but I had to laugh when I remembered how many 3b's I've started after they've sat in a field for years and all I did was change the oil and make sure they spun.



Not sure what oil pressure is supposed to be, I didn't check it before I took the engine out, but as it warmed up it went down to about 50.

I didn't really rev it up much because the turbo isn't connected and I don't think the free spinning is a good idea.

Sounds pretty good, but it'll probably smooth out once I deal with the injector leaks.

I need to go see Lloyd and get some injector seats, most of mine as bubbling a bit so I guess they don't like being re used.

Had to anyways because one of the copper washers for the return line phased out of existence while I was removing them. The return lines also need to be more than finger tight apparently...

Rad is only in with a couple bolts and filled with water just for this test run. Also looks like the alternator ****ery is happening sooner than later because the adjustor doesn't travel far enough to tighten the belt. Weird.

Time to root around in the shed, although I might just take the rest of the day off

 

[cruiserpilot]

My Oil Pressure cold at start is close to 90 PSI

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

I picked these up a few weeks ago so I could throw a mechanical gauge on.

There were some good noises...

Was all a little nerve wracking, but I had to laugh when I remembered how many 3b's I've started after they've sat in a field for years and all I did was change the oil and make sure they spun.



Not sure what oil pressure is supposed to be, I didn't check it before I took the engine out, but as it warmed up it went down to about 50.

I didn't really rev it up much because the turbo isn't connected and I don't think the free spinning is a good idea.

Sounds pretty good, but it'll probably smooth out once I deal with the injector leaks.

I need to go see Lloyd and get some injector seats, most of mine as bubbling a bit so I guess they don't like being re used.

Had to anyways because one of the copper washers for the return line phased out of existence while I was removing them. The return lines also need to be more than finger tight apparently...

Rad is only in with a couple bolts and filled with water just for this test run. Also looks like the alternator f***ery is happening sooner than later because the adjustor doesn't travel far enough to tighten the belt. Weird.

Time to root around in the shed, although I might just take the rest of the day off

Awesome man! Glad she runs.

I've learned through experience (on IDI injectors at least) that I have to replace the nozzle crush washer every time I reinstall injectors. Injector body, and copper/aluminum ones at fuel return rail I re-use with good success, but have to overtorque a bit to get them to seal.

Pull dipstick right after shut off and look in sunlight for sparkles? There's bound to be some as it breaks in.

 

[seapotato]

Awesome man! Glad she runs.

I've learned through experience (on IDI injectors at least) that I have to replace the nozzle crush washer every time I reinstall injectors. Injector body, and copper/aluminum ones at fuel return rail I re-use with good success, but have to overtorque a bit to get them to seal.

Pull dipstick right after shut off and look in sunlight for sparkles? There's bound to be some as it breaks in.

Ha, would I want to see the sparkles?

I popped them out and polished them, just the one not sealing now. Was worth a shot.

Don't feel like driving to town today, so maybe tomorrow or next week.

I'll have to get it plated too so I can actually drive the damn thing again.

 

[seapotato]

Just remembered something from ye Olde boat yard days.

I should have annealed the brass to soften it up again.

Bet that's the main reason the old seats don't seal. Brass getting old and hard like my arteries

Maybe tomorrow.

 

[seapotato]

Well annealing seems to have worked. Should have remembered that before, used to do it all the time with copper sheeting.

Heat it up till the colours run then quench. Brass it's just till it glows red then quench.

Saves me a trip to town.

Other than that, attached all the pipes and crap in the engine bay, and finally split the fan shroud.

No clearance issues with fan and shroud with the frame mount blocks on opposite sides.

Doesn't have to eat it's own farts now.

Have the blow by routed down along the frame under the drivers seat with what I'm pretty sure is a washing machine drain hose...

Decent amount of wind coming out of said blow by pipe, hopefully that tapers off as the rings seat. I was pretty damn careful about where the ring gaps went

More breeze than the 3b has, but there are half again as many pistons so....

Took it for a hot lap down the back road, seemed peppier, but that could be because I've been sitting behind a 3b for the last couple months


Now to see if the assistants all vanish again that I need a hand putting the hood back on....