11-12mpg on hwy (stock rig with no additional weight) (1 Viewer)

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If we lose 1 - 3 MPG for roof racks, what must we lose with a much larger Yakima cargo box up there?
I wish I had paid more attention last time I had mine mounted.
Next time I go on a road trip I will take the box and track my MPG.

And while I am an engineer, sadly I’m not an aerospace engineer so I can’t say if the aerodynamic shape of the box makes up for the much larger cross section vs that of cross bars. I would think not, but who knows?

I surprisingly only lose 1 mpg with my Skybox 16, probably because of the closed aerodynamic design compared to a open rack.


Me too, I have almost no impact to mpg with my Yakima Skybox 16
 
Skybox 16

Me 3 ... With the sky box 16 very little difference.

The ARB rack did make a difference, but the Skybox 16 on top very little.
 
I definitely picked up some mileage with the slee skid system. Nothing dramatic, maybe 1.5mpg, but nothing else changed at the same time and it has been consistent over three trips to colorado.
 
Any downside to not running the "Filler plates?" Do they serve a purpose other than just aesthetics?

I've never had the rack off some I'm wondering if there's a difference between the filler plates and the trim piece(s) in front of the rack that run along the rails.
Well, you have to put something in the bolt holes. It might as well be the thing Toyota designed, but i guess you could just use washers or something.
 
I’m pretty sure someone would struggle to measure any difference with the removal of the stock rack. The two bars that are there have the perfect aero profile, with very small frontal area.
 
As someone that works with design of aircraft, it's interesting to look at aftermarket racks that give very little consideration to aero performance. Aero performance is primarily about two things: 1) Frontal area, and the efficiency of that area moving through the air specified by 2) Drag Coefficient. With so many cross bars of brick shape moving through the air and creating a lot of turbulence, it destroys any the factory optimization of airflow around the car. Fairings are not quite it. It may improve noise, and probably some turbulence, but in many cases, it probably further increases aero drag as it increases the frontal area substantially.

I’m pretty sure someone would struggle to measure any difference with the removal of the stock rack. The two bars that are there have the perfect aero profile, with very small frontal area.

Looking closely at the factory cross bars, the designers sure worked hard to minimize drag with a unidirectional teardrop profile cross bar. Meaning it's thicker in profile at the leading edge and tapers more to the rear. I have 4 stock cross bars on mine to give me the functionality of an expo rack while minimizing MPG impacts.
 
Where should I start looking?
Your skinny pedal. That's literally all it is.

Flat ground, 90kph speed limit, cruise control at 100kph, 1.5hr drive, I get 20mpg. And that's on 33's.

120kph on the same road, 14-15mpg.
 
Your skinny pedal. That's literally all it is.

Flat ground, 90kph speed limit, cruise control at 100kph, 1.5hr drive, I get 20mpg. And that's on 33's.

120kph on the same road, 14-15mpg.

Those Canadian units man! Can i have that in non colonial clusterfuck speak please? Lol

Funny enough i use metric for everything aside from temperature. F is far superior for actual ambient feel.
 
Your skinny pedal. That's literally all it is.

Flat ground, 90kph speed limit, cruise control at 100kph, 1.5hr drive, I get 20mpg. And that's on 33's.

120kph on the same road, 14-15mpg.
wait you measure speed in kilometers but gas usage in gallons? I'm so confused.

I'm now going to drink a pint of beer and shoot a 9mm.
 
Green 🍺
 
wait you measure speed in kilometers but gas usage in gallons? I'm so confused.

I'm now going to drink a pint of beer and shoot a 9mm.
No, we measure fuel consumption in L/100km, as does the rest of the civilized world. ;)

I converted it to MPG to keep it in tune with the rest of this thread and make it easier for you barbarians.
 
Funny enough i use metric for everything aside from temperature. F is far superior for actual ambient feel.
Centigrade - dating myself - is the temperature of water. Fahrenheit is the temperature of peolpe and the ambient feel / weather. Kelvin is the temperature of the universe.
 
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What?! That's two weeks in the penalty box for you.

Decimal points in your thermostat would have to disagree!

Edit:
An even better one;
Calories per 100G... Bitch ima eat the whole box.. give it to me straight!
 
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Centigrade - dating myself - is the temperature of water. Fahrenheit is the temperature of peolpe and the ambient feel / weather. Kelvin is the temperature of the universe.

This is actually pretty damn accurate! Never heard that before.
 
This is actually pretty damn accurate! Never heard that before.
Got to give my wife credit for this. She told me this about a week ago and I thought it was spot on.
 
Woaw, interesting to see this thread evolving :)

Thanks for all the suggestions. Here is what I have done so far:

Checked tire pressure, they were at 32-33 so ai put them all on 35psi.

Checked the PCV valve and it was still rattling so I put it back in.

Oil is fresh and the engine running fine. It's my first cruiser so I don't have a good reference point yet but it idles smoothly, revs smoothly and I don't hear any weird sounds or feel excessive vibrations or anything.


Haven't had a chance to inspect the brakes yet but the car coasts fine, I don't feel any particular drag or hear anything rubbing.

Scanned the computer and no permanent or pending codes. But there were some older codes in the system that weren't triggering the SES light. I guess these are inactive?


Will top off tank and do another test to complete empty.

Screenshot_20230317-173405.png
 
Old codes likely from a battery swap, I'd clear them then see if they return.

Your troubleshooting seems pretty solid. What AT tires are you running? Most in your size are LT construction and should be closer to 40psi to maintain the load rating, and I know from experience mileage will increase a bunch as well.
 
Have you erased the codes and then taken it for a drive to see which ones return? Sometimes, codes are triggered by a battery disconnect and are never cleared by the guilty party.
 

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