Builds 100's Cousin (twice removed) (1 Viewer)

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Because I’m making an equal change in tire diameter.
Yes, I understand it is far from necessary only running 32’s.

A 32” x 4.30 is a perfect match to the stock 30.5” x 4.10 gearing and happens to be what Toyota uses on gen 2’s.

I also don’t want the truck to feel sluggish with larger tires.

I don’t want to effect the factory gearing, especially the ability to crawl and tow. Basically, I believe it’s the right way to do it. And it will suit my needs well.
 
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In other news, I made a trade.
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I found 4.30's for the rear but strangely enough not for the front...

I'm still in the researching phase and a long way out from making the upgrade, the goal is to do rims & tires at the same time as the gear swap.

The Sequoia is finally ready for daily driver duty though. Since that's the case I can now focus my time on dialing in my Tundra and get that sold.
 
A little info I'm going to post here for future reference. Taken from Erik's Toyota Differential info

Rear Differential:
All 2wd and 4wd T100's, '00-06 Tundra's, and ?? Sequoia's use a newer/stronger 8" 2-pinion diff. Tacoma 4x4's and Tacoma PreRunner's that don't come with the electric locker (aka "non-TRD), as well as V6 Tacoma 4x2's also came with this diff.
This diff commonly and mistakenly called an 8.4" or 8.25" diff, possibly to imply its extra strength. The ring gear actually measures 8". The extra strength of this diff comes from the bearing cap/truss and large diameter pinion gear shaft.
LSD's available is the TRD/Kazuma clutch-type 3-pinion LSD, the OEM 4-pinion Tundra TRD LSD, and the Detroit Trutrac.
Lockers available are the Powertrax "Lock-right," "No-Slip," ARB Air Locker, Detroit Softlocker.
This diff cannot be fitted to an older style 8" axle because it uses a larger diameter mounting bolt pattern and because more space inside the housing necessary to accommodate the large bearing cap. The different bolt pattern also makes it very impractical to swap in an electric locking Toyota diff (the whole mounting flange would have to be re-done using a special jig).
  • Carrier bearing truss and newer housing adds significant strength over V6 and 4cyl diffs
  • Uses V6 carrier bearings, larger pinion bearings
  • Uses shims for backlash adjustment instead of threaded adjusters
  • Twelve 12mm Ring gear bolts
  • 10mm axle housing studs with 14mm nuts
  • 30 splilne axles
  • 30 spline pinion
* 4Runners do NOT use this diff at all. Late-model 4Runners still use the V6 8" diff above.
** This diff is NOT swappable with V6, 4cyl, high-pinion, or electric locking diffs. This diff cannot be fitted to an older style 8" axle because it uses a larger diameter mounting bolt pattern and because more space inside the housing necessary to accommodate the large bearing cap.


Front Differential:
'95-03 Tacoma, '00-04 Tundra, ?? Sequoia's, and 96-02 4Runners have a high-pinion 7.5" IFS front diff offset to the drivers side. The high-pinion design is used so that the rack and pinion steering and anti-sway bar on these vehicles can run under the front driveshaft. The housing is a unique bolt-together design. The carrier inside is exactly the same as the '86-95 IFS diffs, so LSD's and lockers for it are also the same. However, since this is a high-pinion diff, the gears for it are different (reverse-cut) than the earlier diff. There is an ADD and non-ADD version of this diff as well.
These diffs use different gear sets than the earlier IFS diff because of the high-pinion design.
  • Driver's side
  • High pinion
  • 27 spline axles
  • Bolt-together "clamshell" housing design.

 
Ok, so as I mentioned I’d like to do gears and rims/tires at the same time. I took a closer look at my current Michelin’s and they don’t have the 18-20 months left in them that I first thought but they should easily get me through this coming fall. I’ll defintely want fresh tread for winter.

Anyway, wheels. I’ve got some wheels stashed away but I want to get them painted that dark graphite looking colour that some Sequoias came with, from what I’ve learned it’s called “dark hyper silver”. I asked the parts guy at the dealership and he said that Toyota didn’t share their wheel paint codes. Strange. So I’m not exactly sure how to get this done, only thing I can think of is tracking down a wheel with good original paint and having a paint store attempt to match it. I’d like powdercoat or maybe even plasti dip but I doubt if the colour can be matched. Any novel ideas?
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I've seen plastic dip peeling on more than one vehicle recently.

Yeah, that wouldn't fly with me and I doubt the color could be matched accurately anyway. I'm on the lookout for a local painter. I'm still not sure how to get the color right short of buying an original paint wheel and having it matched.
 
No progress this week, doing a little winter camping road trip with a buddy of mine from Belgium :)
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I’ve been coming down from the high of last weeks road trip. It was really something special on a lot of different levels. My buddy from Belgium had never seen anything like the PNW coast anywhere in Europe. His mind was totally blown.
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The weather finally feels like it’s turning the corner here so I decided to tackle my rear shocks today. Luckily they looked to have been replaced within the last couple years so rust wasn’t an issue and they came out without too much fuss. Getting the Bilstein 4600’s in was a little more of a hassle, a 22mm or 7/8” ratcheting wrench for the top nyloc nuts would have made the job LOADS easier but I couldn’t find one locally, so was forced to struggle through with just my standard wrenches. Even though the old shocks didn’t look bad I did a quick driveway compression test and noticed that the left side shock was pretty well blown out already. Glad I made the change, the truck is really starting to feel a lot tighter now.
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In other news while I was gone my rear hatch handle decided to give up along with the rear wiper. So it looks like a metal handle, new cable and a latch mech(?) is in my near future. I also want to adjust the hatch to close a little tighter, I can hear it banging around a little when I hit bumps. Anything in particular I should look at with the rear wiper?

I’m still trying to find a painter to match the dark hyper grey for my wheels and I *think* Just Differentials will have me covered for 4.30’s. I’m seriously considering a rear LSD as well, all of the lockers I’ve researched either have bad street manners or cost as much as my truck did.
 
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The weather finally feels like it’s turning the corner here so I decided to tackle my rear shocks today. Luckily they looked to have been replaced within the last couple years so rust wasn’t an issue and they came out without too much fuss. Getting the Bilstein 4600’s in was a little more of a hassle, a 22mm or 7/8” ratcheting wrench for the top nyloc nuts would have made the job LOADS easier but I couldn’t find one locally, so was forced to struggle through with just my standard wrenches. Even though the old shocks didn’t look bad I did a quick driveway compression test and noticed that the left side shock was pretty well blown out already. Glad I made the change, the truck is really starting to feel a lot tighter now.
View attachment 1928935View attachment 1928936

In other news while I was gone my rear hatch handle decided to give up along with the rear wiper. So it looks like a metal handle, new cable and a latch mech(?) is in my near future. I also want to adjust the hatch to close a little tighter, I can hear it banging around a little when I hit bumps. Anything in particular I should look at with the rear wiper?

I’m still trying to find a painter to match the dark hyper grey for my wheels and I *think* Just Differentials will have me covered for 4.30’s. I’m seriously considering a rear LSD as well, all of the lockers I’ve researched either have bad street manners or cost as much as my truck did.
Just the wiper, or also sprayer and window?
 
I really need switch gears and focus on dialing in the old Tundra so I can send it down the road. You know, fixing all the nagging little things that my lazy ass has put off for years. First up, instrument lights. The O/D light has never worked under my ownership, the D light and fuel gauge lights went out years ago. I’ve found the part number for the D and O/D (83120-60020) but not the fuel warning light. It’s quite a bit larger than the others. The fan switch light is also out on the Tundra, the Sequoia also has dead bulbs for the temperature and the fan knobs. If anyone has part numbers I’d love to hear them... So I’m nipping it in the bud and taking care of all of them at once.
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Window works, sprayer is also non-operational.
Maybe your rear ecu module. Try turning the key to on and hold the window up for 10 seconds. You should heard a click from the dash from the computer resetting. Then cycle the window, wiper, and sprayer. Worked for me, hopefully that simple for you.
 
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Maybe your rear ecu module. Try turning the key to on and hold the window up for 10 seconds. You should heard a click from the dash from the computer resetting. Then cycle the window, wiper, and sprayer. Worked for me, hopefully that simple for you.

You sir, are a legend. Fixed it!

I also found the part number for the fuel warning bulb, 90010-06003. Just need to figure out the part number for the HVAC control bulbs now.

As long as I'm making a Toyota parts order I might as well get a new rear hatch cable and... is it the actuator or the lock that should be replaced at the same time? I assume the lock mech? Gotta love those detailed drawings 🙄

Or the actuator:
 
Ok, so I just ordered the D, O/D, and fuel warning bulbs for the Tundra and a new rear hatch lock for the Sequoia. It comes with a new cable so that's cool. The hatch handle feels like it is ok, so I'll see if the new lock will help it live another day.

For my hyper grey wheel paint dilemma I went to tundrasolutions.com and a member there turned me on to this stuff.
With a black base coat it might be just what I need. It's definitely the closest match I've found so far, seems very promising.
 
Not too much to report, helped a good friend change the oil in his Scion yesterday and I replaced the tail gate handle on the Tundra. $11.06 shipped for an eBay handle makes it very hard to justify $97.79+ shipping for an original Toyota part, especially when I’ll be selling it. The lock cylinder fits in there a little loose but other than that the quality is ok, it does the job it’s supposed to. Very simple task, maybe 15-20 minutes.
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I haven’t driven the Sequoia or the Tundra an inch this week :) The weather in Seattle turned pretty damn beautiful and I’ve been feeling pretty fat so I’ve been riding my old custom fixed gear all week. Did just short of 100 miles in 5 days, really good start to the riding season for me, feeling a lot less fat!
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