100 too stiff after OME medium lift

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Wow, after nine years of the 100s being on the road and no shop has be able to determine the correct recipe for each owner/driver? The ride can be everything to everyone with the correct spring rate and dampening.

I just picked up an 07 and after reading through 7 pages, I feel like I have to figure this out for myself. I had planned to simply drop my new rig off at a shop and have them do everything.

Now I'm having second thoughts .....
 
Jcrider48 said:
Wow, after nine years of the 100s being on the road and no shop has be able to determine the correct recipe for each owner/driver? The ride can be everything to everyone with the correct spring rate and dampening.

I just picked up an 07 and after reading through 7 pages, I feel like I have to figure this out for myself. I had planned to simply drop my new rig off at a shop and have them do everything.

Now I'm having second thoughts .....
Click to expand...


9 years? I think you might want to check your math :)

My personal opinion is that there are multiple variables that prevent upgrading the suspension from being just "plug and play".

1) Vehicle "ride" is subjective. What one person calls "sporty" another might consider "overly harsh" or "punishing".

2) The weight range of the 100 series. The "perfect" shock for the 5500 pound stock vehicle might feel "dangerous" on a fully loaded and armored vehicle. The perfect shock for the fully armored and loaded 7000+ pound behemoth might feel like it's filled with concrete on a stock vehicle.

3) Jumping into "lifting" the torsion bar front-end before fully understanding it. The torsion bar front suspension is both a blessing and a curse. It makes it real easy to lift the front end by just turning a few screws, but there are a few caveats. Whether it is "to make room for larger tires" (which you really don't get from just cranking the torsion bars), or to try to get rid of the "stinkbug stance", there tends to be a tendency to "over crank" the front torsion bars for lift. The preload on the torsion bars really only adjusts where the front suspension is "at rest" and it doesn't add any travel to the front suspension. Any "lift" you get from cranking the torsion bars reduces the down travel available in the front suspension. You can recover a little down travel from aftermarket UCAs and longer shocks, but it's not a huge amount. Some also appear to get confused over adding "upgraded" torsion bars. The aftermarket torsion bars tend to have a stiffer spring rate, which is useful for carrying additional weight, but really don't add any lift per se.
 
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jLB said:
9 years? I think you might want to check your math :)

My personal opinion is that there are multiple variables the prevent upgrading the suspension from being just "plug and play".

1) Vehicle "ride" is subjective. What one person calls "sporty" another might consider "overly harsh" or "punishing".

2) The weight range of the 100 series. The "perfect" shock for the 5500 pound stock vehicle might feel "dangerous" on a fully loaded and armored vehicle. The perfect shock for the fully armored and loaded 7000+ pound behemoth might feel like it's filled with concrete on a stock vehicle.

3) Jumping into "lifting" the torsion bar front-end before fully understanding it. The torsion bar front suspension is both a blessing and a curse. It makes it real easy to lift the front end by just turning a few screws, but there are a few caveats. Whether it is "to make room for larger tires" (which you really don't get from just cranking the torsion bars), or to try to get rid of the "stinkbug stance", there tends to be a tendency to "over crank" the front torsion bars for lift. The preload on the torsion bars really only adjusts where the front suspension is "at rest" and it doesn't add any travel to the front suspension. Any "lift" you get from cranking the torsion bars reduces the down travel available in the front suspension. You can recover a little down travel from aftermarket UCAs and longer shocks, but it's not a huge amount. Some also appear to get confused over adding "upgraded" torsion bars. The aftermarket torsion bars tend to have a stiffer spring rate, which is useful for carrying additional weight, but really don't add any lift per se.
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Thanks for the information and math correction, I thought the 100 came out in 99. Shows how new I am with Land Cruisers. I still feel this technology should be figured out by now, which it may be but not fully understood by truck owners. In my opinion there is only one ride setting when all the weight you are carrying is considered. There is a perfect spring rate & shock valving though I doubt everyone will agree on it. Hopefully someone can point me to the right shop to spend 7-$8,000 Thant I will be happy with. If not, I will need to call apon my Trophy Truck buddies to figure all this out.

Again, thanks for the information and any future advice from anyone is welcomed.

Jeff
 
My experience - coming from a 2000 stock 4Runner my new to me 2000 LC with 2.5" OME, slee front bumper, wayn winch, slee skid plates feels more compliant. Currently running Michelin tires which previous owner had inflated high at 40 psi all around. I brought it down to factory recommended 32 psi rear and 29 front and it rides even better.


Sent from my iPhone
 
re_guderian said:
it has been, which is why the 200 series doesn't use torsion bars...
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I guess my bar is low for comfort coming from a 56 Power Wagon, a 88 Grand Wagoneer (4" lift) and a 2001 Excursion all with leafs front and back. Even unloaded with my Slee installed OME 1.5" lift, my LX470 is so much less jarring on the road and off. Seems to go pretty much where I need to. Looking forward to my BIOR skid plates, make me a bit more adventurous off road (there's a granite rock hiding behind every sage brush here), should smooth out the ride a bit too.
 
chuckscap said:
I guess my bar is low for comfort coming from a 56 Power Wagon, a 88 Grand Wagoneer (4" lift) and a 2001 Excursion all with leafs front and back. Even unloaded with my Slee installed OME 1.5" lift, my LX470 is so much less jarring on the road and off. Seems to go pretty much where I need to. Looking forward to my BIOR skid plates, make me a bit more adventurous off road (there's a granite rock hiding behind every sage brush here), should smooth out the ride a bit too.
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Yeah, way too low. FWIW, I had an FJ60 with an add-a-leaf lift. Felt like mid-1800's suspension tech...
 
@ jcrider48 there is no "perfect-one-size-fits-all" suspension. Talk to your Trophy Truck buddies about that and you'll see what I mean. Even between professional drivers, some will prefer different settings on a similar vehicle, depending on their "personal feel", the terrain they will be traversing, etc. The "right" suspension will always be a compromise between all the things you want to do with your truck and is totally dependent on what you like and expect your truck to perform.

One of the benefits you have from owning a truck model that's been for 16 years on the road is that there will surely be some folks that have set their own trucks as they see fit and you might have a chance to test drive different settings before deciding on what's best for you. And by all means, DO take advantage of your Trophy Truck buddies' knowledge and let us know what you come up to.
 
I just picked up an 02' LC and getting a 2.5" lift was one of the first things on my list to do. I will be building the truck out with some armor (ARB bumpers, swing out, drawers) and will be carrying my family of 5 around so I was looking into the Slee Medium Lift. One thing I love about the truck is the ride and I don't think I'm willing to give up to much of it. I wouldn't mind a slightly stiffer ride but spill-my-coffee harshness is a no go. I know ride quality is a subjective thing but all evidence/feedback thus far has convinced me to look into other options for shocks.

Are there any other complete kits out there without the OME shocks?
 
@shanester I'm currently in a very similar situation as you describe. Just got my 100 and was about to put the suspension kit that has worked well on my two prior 80 Series, just thought I'd go the same "OME route"... But stumbled on this two threads and after reading the info on them and the comments on ICON Shocks vs OME, I'm leaning towards this kit:
Super Deluxe Suspension Package

My doubt at this point is if the price difference in Stage 1 vs Stage 2 shocks is worth it for my intended use. I mean: I've always had shocks with out the cooling canister and they've worked ok on thousands of miles of dirt roads with a loaded 80 Series, is it that much of a difference? (I'm sure the Stage 2 are better, but how much better to justify the extra $775 when there are other things I want to put on the Cruiser).

shanester said:
I just picked up an 02' LC and getting a 2.5" lift was one of the first things on my list to do. I will be building the truck out with some armor (ARB bumpers, swing out, drawers) and will be carrying my family of 5 around so I was looking into the Slee Medium Lift. One thing I love about the truck is the ride and I don't think I'm willing to give up to much of it. I wouldn't mind a slightly stiffer ride but spill-my-coffee harshness is a no go. I know ride quality is a subjective thing but all evidence/feedback thus far has convinced me to look into other options for shocks.

Are there any other complete kits out there without the OME shocks?
Click to expand...
 
Spend the money on good shocks that can be re-valved. King, Fox, Icon, ect. Might take a few tries to get them valved how you like but that is not a big deal. I have riden in a 100 with all OME lift and thought the ride was harsh. Really disliked OME shocks on my 60 and 80. Went Bilsteins on the 60 and Fox on the 80 and was much happier. I will be going with a top end shock when I get to lifting my new 100.

Cheers
 
SS100 said:
@shanester I'm currently in a very similar situation as you describe. Just got my 100 and was about to put the suspension kit that has worked well on my two prior 80 Series, just thought I'd go the same "OME route"... But stumbled on this two threads and after reading the info on them and the comments on ICON Shocks vs OME, I'm leaning towards this kit:
Super Deluxe Suspension Package

My doubt at this point is if the price difference in Stage 1 vs Stage 2 shocks is worth it for my intended use. I mean: I've always had shocks with out the cooling canister and they've worked ok on thousands of miles of dirt roads with a loaded 80 Series, is it that much of a difference? (I'm sure the Stage 2 are better, but how much better to justify the extra $775 when there are other things I want to put on the Cruiser).
Click to expand...

Wow, that's a pricey kit. I'm the type of guy who obsesses over stuff like this so I will most likely go with Stage 2.

SNLC said:
Spend the money on good shocks that can be re-valved. King, Fox, Icon, ect. Might take a few tries to get them valved how you like but that is not a big deal. I have riden in a 100 with all OME lift and thought the ride was harsh. Really disliked OME shocks on my 60 and 80. Went Bilsteins on the 60 and Fox on the 80 and was much happier. I will be going with a top end shock when I get to lifting my new 100.

Cheers
Click to expand...

I agree with spending the money and not having to worry about it again. Looks like I'll be getting spendy for my first mod.
 
Has anyone measured the stock OEM shock length extended/compressed vs the OME Sport shocks? If they were comparable in length they would be a nice inexpensive solution to the harsh ride. Othewise it's Icons for me. Mike's installing as set of skid plates on my LX470 Friday, I''ll ses how the ride softens or not on the ride back home. I'll take pics and post them too.
 
SS100 said:
@ jcrider48 there is no "perfect-one-size-fits-all" suspension. Talk to your Trophy Truck buddies about that and you'll see what I mean. Even between professional drivers, some will prefer different settings on a similar vehicle, depending on their "personal feel", the terrain they will be traversing, etc. The "right" suspension will always be a compromise between all the things you want to do with your truck and is totally dependent on what you like and expect your truck to perform.

One of the benefits you have from owning a truck model that's been for 16 years on the road is that there will surely be some folks that have set their own trucks as they see fit and you might have a chance to test drive different settings before deciding on what's best for you. And by all means, DO take advantage of your Trophy Truck buddies' knowledge and let us know what you come up to.
Click to expand...


I spoke with 3 guys and one of them was King Shocks. Believe it of not, there is an ideal setting, but some people might prefer a little softer or a little firmer. When you move outside the ideal setting you're giving up something on either end of the spectrum. This is less noticeable on race vehicles with a lot of wheel travel and competition. The Land Cruiser doesn't have much wheel travel to work with so the ideal setting is a very short spectrum. Go out out the ideal setting and you'll notice what you're giving up.


I have a couple of dilemmas.

I don't have the tools or patience to buy the parts and do the install myself.

Removal of my AHC, Slee seems to have all the experience doing this very cleanly. I can't have them do this without adding new springs and shocks. After all my research, my opinion is Slee has it figured out. They will likely get my business but they don't work directly with King shocks, so this is another dilemma since I'm a proponent of King and their service.

Just Differential looks to be another player with the land cruiser but to far from me and I'm not sure if they can remove AHC. They use Icon shocks but I'm not sure how Icon's service is.

The race truck builders around me frown on working on factory vehicles. They say why hell would you want to do anything with a land cruiser. They don't see the value or purpose. Heck, I couldn't even show up in the desert with the LC without having everybody harass me.
I do have a close friend that will put bypass shocks on the back but the front will not fit anything bigger then a 2.5" smooth body King or Icon unless you fabricate longer bigger A-arms. then you'll be able to fit a coilover shock and change the game. I already have a big desert truck with big A-arms that won't fit on jeep trails so this isn't an option to consider. The 100 is wide enough as it is.

It seems that there are some unhappy people with their OME springs and shocks, hence my original post. I would have thought there was already a great spring and shock package ready to go with happy cruisers.
 
I just want to get rid of my clunking front suspension. Seems to be when the suspension unloads and only on drivers side. I wouldn't mind the firm ride if it were more quiet. Drives me nuts and can't figure out what to do about it.
 
Update: I actually just took mine off road for the first time since installation and I have to say, it's on road ride is much improved. Maybe it's up in my brain, but is it possible since it was never fully articulated/compressed that it wasn't broken in? I've done over 3,000 miles now since it's been installed and re-aligned.
 
Coming from jeeps I was very dissatisfied with the wandering and softness the original factory shocks had with 190k on them. After cranking the torsion bars 1" and adding the OME shocks I love the way this truck rides. Is it rougher than factory, probably, but I want a tight ride over a soft one. YMMV
 
Guess I got lucky. Had Slee do my OME and level it so no stink bug. Run BFG AT/KOs 33's at 38 psi. My rig is light no extra gear and no 3rd row seats only Slee step sliders and factory bumpers. Feels like a truck. I did not like how my 2011 LX570 even on sport setting felt like I was driving a Rolls Royce, but it did handle great and you could drive it all day and not be tired. It's all about what you like ;)
 
REDrum said:
Shoot Brian an e-mail, his site list being out of stock but he may have some being shipped in soon. I'm going to put a set on the 96 FZJ80 next year.

Koni 90 Series Shocks
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Has anyone put these adjustable Koni 90 Raids on a 100 series here? They're pricey but seems like a good well designed HD option if you don't want to run a reservoir shock on lifts below 2".
 
At some point i will be going with 1.5" lift. With all the negative reviews im fairly confident i wont like the OME. I had Bielsteins before and really liked them. I have read that the travel is not the best but i live in FL and should be fine. The on road handling was great and i feel it is a good compromise or middle ground shock. You get a good sporty feeling, tight suspension and good control around corners. When loaded with family or gear it handled great and the ride was even more comfortable. They also had a good ability to absorb the trail rides.
 
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