100 too stiff after OME medium lift

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If you are just using it on the street and not loading the truck that should be fine. Remember tires will play a big part in "stock ride quality".
I plan on taking it off road as well but it will be on the pavement 80% of the time.
 

HFDPNL, so i saw your post and that's exactly why i am questioning the part numbers. You mention your brothers set up is basically what i am doing and everything is good. Does he take it off road much?

The member who reviews the shock in that thread right after your post, mentions that he loses .5" of extension compared to his AHC stock shock. Would i get that back from these different part numbers i mentioned in the previous post? I cant find the actual specs to compare the shocks, just curious if these would fit "better" on a lifted 100.
 
He does take it off road, but I don't think he really flexes it out, so as to check the extension. Mostly just bad roads and across open fields, accessing hunting locations, no rock crawling. It doesn't ride like the shocks are unreasonably restrictive in the rear, and the fronts are set to the recommended amount of droop, and we weren't limited on lift, even though the length of the shock limits the droop(initially).

The AHC had already been removed before we installed the Foxes, so I can't compare to that, but one of the Bilsteins he had on there since the AHC had snapped because it was too short.

Maybe you can find someone with several different shocks out of the box to measure full length at extension. You could also call Fox and see what they say.

I will say that with my original OME rear shocks, the limit of travel would keep the springs tight in their perches. Once I switched to the ICONs, which gave me more travel, the 860s were loose until I added spacers. As far as the front, the ICONs have more extension than even my TC upper arms will allow, so I'm looking at possibly switching to the Nitrogear arms.
 
I called fox to answer my own question. Part numbers would be for a 105 or 80. Completely different shock. Next size up in the 2.0 is 4 inches longer! Thanks for the help HFDPNL!
 
After a LOT of reading in here I think I'm going to go with either spacers or 865s in the rear with cranked OEM t bars and new OEM shocks. Hopefully this nets 1.5 lift with close to stock ride quality.

This is the setup (865 Rear, not spacers) I have on my '06. I have a Slee Blueberry up front with about 8 revolutions on the T-Bar Bolts. Droop is still in spec. Front is about 1/2" lower than the rear, but that drives nicer than when the stance is level. Very happy with it, but I am on road 95% of the time...still haven't tried to really flex it offroad.
 
Im going to do an alignment and was thinking of doing the T bars prior. Im completely stock with 285's. Whats the suggested droop i should have?
 
50mm
 
50mm is the lower limit

70mm is safe/ample

I installed TBs and shocks- no rear springs yet. I've got about 100mm of droop right now- measuring 20" from fender lip to the hub center. It just a tad higher than stock- with bens bumper and a 12.5k winch. Stance is 1/2- 3/4" lower up front than rear. I haven't cranked the TBs up very much since the rear height is stock. Rides very well.
 
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If you want a soft ride, go with Fox 2.0's on all 4 corners. I'm running Slee heavies plus OME torsion bars and my rig is comfy.
Any chance you would clarify Fox 2.0's (are those the shocks?) ... Slee heavies (again, not sure what those are) ... and Old Man Emu torsion bars? I'm new to this but definitely want a comfy ride after I lift it a bit. Thanks!
 
Any chance you would clarify Fox 2.0's (are those the shocks?) ... Slee heavies (again, not sure what those are) ... and Old Man Emu torsion bars? I'm new to this but definitely want a comfy ride after I lift it a bit. Thanks!
Fox 2.0's are the shocks
Slee heavies are the springs (see wngrog post above) Slee Off Road is the vendor
Old Man Emu (OME) is the manufacturer's name, their torsion bars have a heavier cargo capacity than stock but if your front end is not heavier than stock (no bumper? no winch?) they might render a stiffer ride
 
I installed a TJM heavy kit with torsion bars and their matching XGS Gold shocks. even with a not fully built truck (no sliders, bumpers, or dual batteries yet-but I do have drawers, rack, and RTT) the ride is great. it's stiff and hits hard on certain roads, but 80% of the time it is just fine, feels more stable, and is super drivable.

My wife doesn't not like hard riding trucks, and she has given her seal of approval to the ride of the TJMs.

hey i cant find the lift kit you are referring to anywhere advertised by TJM. was this something you pieced together or did TJM previously offer a kit for the 100 series that i am not seeing ?

any links to what you bought would be super helpful. thanks /eric
 
I’d like some opinions on an upcoming purchase.

Bought a 2000 LC this summer (never been out of NW FL, in great shape), just rolled over 200k. Full fluid baseline, all big PM jobs, 285 KO2s. TT sway links front & rear, hatch and hood struts etc..

I want to buy an ARB front (no winch) in the next month or so. As far as I know the coils/shocks are all original. I assume that at some point in the near future those will need to be addressed, but no issues screaming ‘look at me’ right now.

When I get the bumper, I’d like to do some sort of lift, either coil spacers or an OME or similar to even it out. Again, I am not having any issues out of the suspension as it is, but also know that won't always be the case.

I’ve read a good bit about the stiffness some of you guys have named in this thread.

Considering the mileage, age, and all-original nature of the suspension, my question/solicitation of opinions boils down to:
  1. Just get spacers with the bumper install, t-bars cranked, leveled, tuned, aligned
  2. Pull the trigger on that OME medium 1.5 from Slee
  3. Replace OEM shocks/coils when I do the spacers
  4. Some other combo of parts
Thanks, and let me know if I can clarify what I am asking!
 
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I’d like some opinions on an upcoming purchase.

Bought a 2000 LC this summer (never been out of NW FL, in great shape), just rolled over 200k. Full fluid baseline, all big PM jobs, 285 KO2s. TT sway links front & rear, hatch and hood struts etc..

I want to buy an ARB front (no winch) in the next month or so. As far as I know the coils/shocks are all original. I assume that at some point in the near future those will need to be addressed, but no issues screaming ‘look at me’ right now.

I will not be performing this work myself.

When I get the bumper, I’d like to do some sort of lift, either coil spacers or an OME or similar to even it out. Again, I am not having any issues out of the suspension as it is, but also know that won't always be the case.

Money (to an extent) isn’t the big issue (although at the divorce proceedings I am sure an attorney will name IH8MUD as a reason). This truck now spends 90% of its time as a DD on highway (eventually becoming a 3rd vehicle), and offroad I’m only do whatever is close by (lower Bama, NW FL), mostly using it to get into the woods to hunt and late-night rides on some land—nothing serious and attempting to stay away from mud as much as I can.

I’ve read a good bit about the stiffness some of you guys have named in this thread.

Considering the mileage, age, and all-original nature of the suspension, my question/solicitation of opinions boils down to:
  1. Just get spacers with the bumper install, t-bars cranked, leveled, tuned, aligned
  2. Pull the trigger on that OME medium 1.5 from Slee
  3. Replace OEM shocks/coils when I do the spacers
  4. Some other combo of parts
Thanks, and let me know if I can clarify what I am asking!

I would give IronMan and Tough dog a hard look. I do not mind my OME because it is tried and true. But if time wasn't an issue on replacing my suspension thats the route I would have taken.
 
I run 285’s with OME 1.5” 2865 medium. I will be installing OEM shocks at some point.

I’m in Florida and my setup gets me thru 95% of what I encounter. The rest requires a more capable vehicle. And I don’t have a need for that 5%.
 
Has anyone used Bilstein 5165's? I found some that were slightly longer than the Fox 2.0. I am not sure what the valving numbers mean but they seem like the might be a good solution for something in between OME and Icon.
 
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