100 series sleeping setup? (1 Viewer)

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So I am really interested in dimensions and what kind of materials you used? is it welded or bolted together? Seems super versatile which is what I have been trying to do.

hey guys,
let me know what info you guys would like to know. I can certainly take some measurements to help in any way. will try to find some time and draw it out on paper.
 
Here’s my crude drawing. I used 1” square tubing, 16 gauge. Cut and welded like in the drawing.

For the bottom of each leg, I just used some scrap metal I had to close the tubing on the bottom. As seen in the pic, passenger side only has 2 legs cause I used 2 bolts to connect that side to the driver’s side.

As for the wood, I was able to utilize one sheet of plywood (4x8) and had a little left over. I didn’t take measurements of that but pretty easy to figure out based on the metal frame.

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Some things I would do different if I was going to do it again...I would raise the height maybe another inch and make the fold out piece longer thus making the platform a bit longer. To make this work, you would also need to shorten the length of the platform (guessing from 41.5” to 40”) so it won’t interfere with 2nd row seat and ability to tilt back too much. As is, my rear seats can tilt back one notch.

Hope this helps everyone!

So I am really interested in dimensions and what kind of materials you used? is it welded or bolted together? Seems super versatile which is what I have been trying to do.
 
I don't have much for a formal plan. But here's the basic setup. The side sections were just estimates at the time. You'll have to make a pattern to fit the box into the space properly. I wanted a nice tight fit (I know- who doesn't?) to prevent movement and maximize the usable space. The basic dimensions here will take up about as much as you can side to side, but is about an inch short of the tail gate sill. You'll figure it out. Good luck!

Also- you have to watch the overall width of the folding panels. At the length I have below, they just barely scrape the "C" pillar trim panels on both sides as they unfold/ fold.

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I realize this is a 2 year old post, but I was wondering.. Is there not a ton of stress on the piano hinges where you'd be putting body weight on these extra panels? This design is identical to what I've got in my head but I haven't accounted for additional support in the gap between 2nd row seats and drawer box.
 
I think that will work out pretty well. Just realize you need to scribe the wings of the box that extend from the drawers to the sides of the car and you probably want to make the DS one hinged or removeable so you can still use the storage back there. Surprising amount back there... You may also want to think about putting a small rubber spacer beside the piano hinge so the hinges don't rip the leather on the back of your seats if you toss in your sleep or are a bit rough getting the panels folded down. Otherwise, the locking storage is a good idea and I wish I would have done that to mine. Maybe v2... Think about what you want to store in there and make sure you can get it in the hole :) laptop?
 
I realize this is a 2 year old post, but I was wondering.. Is there not a ton of stress on the piano hinges where you'd be putting body weight on these extra panels? This design is identical to what I've got in my head but I haven't accounted for additional support in the gap between 2nd row seats and drawer box.


I designed it so the hinge between the two fold-out sections is right on the back of the seat cushion when the rear seat is folded down. (I lay a towel down to avoid damaging the leather cover) The weight is fully supported on the back of the seat. Then the front panel lays on the back of the console lid. (on another towel to avoid damage to the leather armrest) The hinge at the box end of the panel is solid, no flex or obvious signs of stress. It's no problem. Plenty of solid support!

.....and now I'm building a new one to accommodate my fridge.
 
I designed it so the hinge between the two fold-out sections is right on the back of the seat cushion when the rear seat is folded down. (I lay a towel down to avoid damaging the leather cover) The weight is fully supported on the back of the seat. Then the front panel lays on the back of the console lid. (on another towel to avoid damage to the leather armrest) The hinge at the box end of the panel is solid, no flex or obvious signs of stress. It's no problem. Plenty of solid support!

.....and now I'm building a new one to accommodate my fridge.
I need to do the same thing... All of these posts are helping me figure out what the heck I want to do with v2
 
I designed it so the hinge between the two fold-out sections is right on the back of the seat cushion when the rear seat is folded down. (I lay a towel down to avoid damaging the leather cover) The weight is fully supported on the back of the seat. Then the front panel lays on the back of the console lid. (on another towel to avoid damage to the leather armrest) The hinge at the box end of the panel is solid, no flex or obvious signs of stress. It's no problem. Plenty of solid support!

.....and now I'm building a new one to accommodate my fridge.

Thank you!

I also really like how you kept the panel facing the 2nd row seats angled. Presumably to retain the recline feature for the back seats? That was something I'd wanted as well... Sometimes you just gotta recline the back seats without going full-bore sleeper mode. I've seen the safe mounted there on a few other builds as well, a nice touch for sensitive or otherwise non-public items.
 
Thank you!

I also really like how you kept the panel facing the 2nd row seats angled. Presumably to retain the recline feature for the back seats? That was something I'd wanted as well... Sometimes you just gotta recline the back seats without going full-bore sleeper mode. I've seen the safe mounted there on a few other builds as well, a nice touch for sensitive or otherwise non-public items.

The second row seats are fixed in place once they're locked down for use (no reclining). But since the backside of those seats are angled as they sit, I angled the box to use all of that space back there.
 
I'm off to a good start on the updated version of my cargo/drawer box. This one will accommodate my Dometic fridge- making it much easier to access. But, I'll no longer be able to sleep inside. It's not much of a problem since I have an rtt. But still, I have no other option now.

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A general question for those who sleep in their trucks...

Back in my on-the-road band gigging days, I occasionally slept in my Ford E150. Plenty of room, but the environment in the van was awful. Either hot, humid and stuffy, or cold and clammy, or, if I left the windows open for some ventilation, still hot but now with mosquitos everywhere or freezing cold (a lot of time in northern NYS/Adirondak area). Nights in that thing were a nightMARE. Never could get the interior of any small (meaning, not large luxocamping BUS or RV) vehicle to be a comfortable climate for sleeping. Ergonomically, sure. Climate-wise, no. I sleep great in a tent, or under the stars, but not in a vehicle. How do YOU do it?
 
Window socks on the 2nd row windows. to keep mosquitos out. I haven't gotten to sleep in mine yet but was thinking of doing a screen across the upper hatch opening to leave it open. Attach with velcro or some snaps, maybe.
 
Custom window screens here (ie. too cheap to buy them).

Rear doors held on by those stretch bands (forgot name of them from Joanne’s fabric).
Rear hatch held in place by magnets.
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Custom window screens here (ie. too cheap to buy them).

Rear doors held on by those stretch bands (forgot name of them from Joanne’s fabric).
Rear hatch held in place by magnets.
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Sleeping with the Hatch open, how do you deal with the door lights that illuminate for at least 60 mins when the hatch is open?
 

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