100 Series Rust Rating?
- Thread starter hankk
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
OP - nice truck - looks like we're cousins! Mine is a 2000 with 150k so we're in the same boat.
Hope you don't mind me jumping in as I have a similar question and am definitely ahead of you rust wise from what I can tell.
@delz05 - I'm in Boston too and since you seem to have some specific expertise here, curious what you think about mine. Of course happy to hear anyone else's opinion too.
My rig lived in the DC area with a single owner until I bought it in 2019 with 110k miles. Everyone that ever looked at it said they thought the rust was negligible and everything was in great shape for the age.
Moved to Boston with it 3 years ago and immediately had it waxoyled per a recommendation from a buddy up here who is also into keeping old trucks on the road. Yesterday, in the process of putting on new tires and brakes all around, was able to get a good look underneath for the first time in a while. The guy at the shop said nothing crazy for what cars look like around here but there is one spot that looks kind of gnarly to me. I'd like to put another 100k on this truck if possible, so if there is something I can/should do I'd like to.
@whitec13 - you mention the "standard hole developing in rear crossmember" - is this what you're talking about? It appears to be a lot worse on left than right.
Aaaaand here are the front brakes that got replaced. Big yikes. Rears weren't so bad.
Hope you don't mind me jumping in as I have a similar question and am definitely ahead of you rust wise from what I can tell.
@delz05 - I'm in Boston too and since you seem to have some specific expertise here, curious what you think about mine. Of course happy to hear anyone else's opinion too.
My rig lived in the DC area with a single owner until I bought it in 2019 with 110k miles. Everyone that ever looked at it said they thought the rust was negligible and everything was in great shape for the age.
Moved to Boston with it 3 years ago and immediately had it waxoyled per a recommendation from a buddy up here who is also into keeping old trucks on the road. Yesterday, in the process of putting on new tires and brakes all around, was able to get a good look underneath for the first time in a while. The guy at the shop said nothing crazy for what cars look like around here but there is one spot that looks kind of gnarly to me. I'd like to put another 100k on this truck if possible, so if there is something I can/should do I'd like to.
@whitec13 - you mention the "standard hole developing in rear crossmember" - is this what you're talking about? It appears to be a lot worse on left than right.
Aaaaand here are the front brakes that got replaced. Big yikes. Rears weren't so bad.
Yes sir, even excellent examples out west have this on occasion. Just a bad design that created a festering pocket. Frames have never been Toyota’s strong suit
The left side of that cross member (above spare) can easily be repaired, but you may run into some additional work where it attaches to the frame. A very common repair needed on these trucks. Looks like you will need calipers, rotors and pads as well. Looks like the pads are getting hung up on the slide pins due to corrosion. If you go this route, take some time to paint the calipers. It slows down the oxidation significantly.
Highly recommend at least a Woolwax application to slow down the oxidation build up that is attacking your frame and suspension. Drop the exhaust, pull out the shocks (replace if rusted through and leaking) and as many components as possible in order to clean and prep for application. The more time and effort you put in, the better the result!
As a fellow Marylander that bought a model year 2000 with similar rust, I can tell you that if you do not treat it and remove or convert all of the rust
you see, as well as liberally apply fluid film or wool wax, in 4 to 5 years you will not want to invest one penny in the truck anymore. In fact, I went and bought a second completely rust free 100 series from NC due to this exact issue. Just treating with fluid film will not be enough for Md. Considering it’s shape so far I would private message the guy up in Boston that replied above and see what it takes to get your car professionally done. Rust is like cancer, you treat it or cut it out or it spreads every single day you don’t. Do not delay your cancer treatment. It’s raining and misty today, it’s feeding that rust, drive it and the flecks of rust land on other areas, then that is the catalyst for that area to rust. YES, there are states where people put up with rust, but that’s stupid and you don’t have to if you act today. The brine on Md roads is sticky and if you don’t wash your undercarriage regularly with a salt remover, every time it is humid, or wet, that salt instantly corrodes everything. Better to have an oily underbody that mechanics with soft hands complain about than a vehicle with every nut and bolt and brake line, and frame that will rot.
It’s definitely a different opinion based on region- I’d consider that way too much rust but like you said it depends on where you live
