ARCHIVE 100 Series Coil Over Conversion Kit

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Don't you only require rake if you plan to load up the back of the vehicle with weight. If you don't haul anything, you can go with softer springs that also don't have any rake.

In theory yes but these 100s NEED at least 3/4in of rake to drive properly. Many have leveled and states the truck wanders bad thats why you see rake on almost every truck
 
So that's approximately 9" of total wheel travel, and over 3" of droop from static ride height to full droop while still maintaining a great stance?
With torsion bars you are limited to ~21.5-22" from center of hub to bottom of fender to maintain the minimum 2" of droop on the suspension. Torsion bars (especially the ones used on 100s) are linear by nature, so the the more you crank them, the more you load them up which causes unwanted effects on and off road.

Web wheeling aside, if you are looking for good trail manners and customization that coilovers offer, this is a great kit to consider. The only concern I have is utilizing the shock tower as a coilover mount. The shock tower was only meant to dampen the vehicle and not carry the weight of the vehicle. I will say that the shock tower mount is a super beefy piece that actually wraps around the frame and carries the weight of the motor, so there may not even be a concern here.
 
In theory yes but these 100s NEED at least 3/4in of rake to drive properly. Many have leveled and states the truck wanders bad thats why you see rake on almost every truck

Thank you for the correction. I was under informed. Even after a wheel alignment this is the case? In thinking about it, 3/4" of rake would be almost impossible to discern from level so that wouldn't be an issue anyway.
 
So that's approximately 9" of total wheel travel, and over 3" of droop from static ride height to full droop while still maintaining a great stance?
With torsion bars you are limited to ~21.5-22" from center of hub to bottom of fender to maintain the minimum 2" of droop on the suspension. Torsion bars (especially the ones used on 100s) are linear by nature, so the the more you crank them, the more you load them up which causes unwanted effects on and off road.

Web wheeling aside, if you are looking for good trail manners and customization that coilovers offer, this is a great kit to consider. The only concern I have is utilizing the shock tower as a coilover mount. The shock tower was only meant to dampen the vehicle and not carry the weight of the vehicle. I will say that the shock tower mount is a super beefy piece that actually wraps around the frame and carries the weight of the motor, so there may not even be a concern here.

I'm still surprised no one has introduced a variable rate torsion bar to solve this problem. To me, that'd be a pretty simple solution.
 
I'm still surprised no one has introduced a variable rate torsion bar to solve this problem. To me, that'd be a pretty simple solution.

You would need to taper the bar. Tapering causes a weak point, and there's a lot of twisting (torsional....hence the name) forces on that bar. I'm not entirely sure I would want that
 
You would need to taper the bar. Tapering causes a weak point, and there's a lot of twisting (torsional....hence the name) forces on that bar. I'm not entirely sure I would want that

I disagree, I think that it would be pretty straight forward to design around the weak point. They'd need to take into account rotational displacements and stress and size the diameters, taper, and material properties. I haven't put pen to paper, but I've been thinking about this for a while and it seems reasonable.

Maybe too expensive to machine the taper, you may not get enough progression to make it worth it, idk
 
In theory yes but these 100s NEED at least 3/4in of rake to drive properly. Many have leveled and states the truck wanders bad thats why you see rake on almost every truck
The 100 doesn't require rake. When folks "level" their 100, they raise the front suspension and that causes changes in handling and bumpsteer characteristics. As an experiment, throw weight over the rear axle to drop it down 1". Then go for a drive.
 
The 100 doesn't require rake. When folks "level" their 100, they raise the front suspension and that causes changes in handling and bumpsteer characteristics. As an experiment, throw weight over the rear axle to drop it down 1". Then go for a drive.
Exactly. I was just about to post about this. When most guys level out the truck without aftermarket UCAs they run out of caster adjustment. Get a set of SPC UCAs (or other brand) and you will have no problem with how the truck drives with a level stance.
 
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If I'm not mistaken, axleshafts take advantage of this principal, i.e. the thinner OD tapered section can deflect to take shock loading.

Lets FEA this for funsies next time we hang out haha @Somebodyelse5

I disagree, I think that it would be pretty straight forward to design around the weak point. They'd need to take into account rotational displacements and stress and size the diameters, taper, and material properties. I haven't put pen to paper, but I've been thinking about this for a while and it seems reasonable.

Maybe too expensive to machine the taper, you may not get enough progression to make it worth it, idk
 
If I'm not mistaken, axleshafts take advantage of this principal, i.e. the thinner OD tapered section can deflect to take shock loading.

Lets FEA this for funsies next time we hang out haha @Somebodyelse5

FEA and Funsies don't typically go together :) But ok, I have Abaqus, let's give it a go.
 
The shock tower was only meant to dampen the vehicle and not carry the weight of the vehicle. I will say that the shock tower mount is a super beefy piece that actually wraps around the frame and carries the weight of the motor, so there may not even be a concern here.

I don't completely disagree, but on an AHC equipped vehicle, the "shock mounts" do take more force than just what is required to dampen the vehicle.
 
As said before, coilover and coil over for torsion bars assist has been used for years in europe and the frame mounts haven't been a issue, LC100 frames mount, expecially for the front are way bigger then anything else on the market, even compare to more modern 4wd with coil overs from factory.
 
Very interesting setup. If the buy it wasn't so high I would have considered it before purchasing my setup. Either way, interested in seeing the progress.
 
Installed my coil over kit last week and will take it out this weekend for a shakedown. First impressions are positive. However, if you think this is something you and a buddy are gonna do in your driveway with set of sockets and a six pack on a Saturday you'd be mistaken. Welding and fabrication are required. No instructions so you're pretty much on your own. I'll post more details as I learn more myself.
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It looks like you have around 3" of upward shock travel. Do you think if you could make your upper shock tower mount higher, you would get more travel out of it?
 
It looks like you have around 3" of upward shock travel. Do you think if you could make your upper shock tower mount higher, you would get more travel out of it?

I don't think so, the body pan (idk what you call the location where the factory bump stop is mounted) will run into the LCA and seems to be the limiter.
 
Installed my coil over kit last week and will take it out this weekend for a shakedown. First impressions are positive. However, if you think this is something you and a buddy are gonna do in your driveway with set of sockets and a six pack on a Saturday you'd be mistaken. Welding and fabrication are required. No instructions so you're pretty much on your own. I'll post more details as I learn more myself.View attachment 1812398View attachment 1812399View attachment 1812400View attachment 1812401
Dude!!! You and I were just drooling over that setup at HIH and you have it now! I want to ride in your rig and check it out.
 
Thought I'd post some pics and observations of my coil over conversion that I recently finished on my 100 series. First off, it's not an easy task. Drilling out the spindle for the sleeve to mount the lower uniball was a pain. Mostly because it's tapered to begin with and you're only increasing the diameter by 1/8 of an inch. Second, the turn stops are way too long and need to be cut down by at least 3/4 of an inch to gain the turning radius of stock. As I mentioned in my prior post there are no instructions and my calls to KOR were never returned so I was on my own with the install. Thankful for Aaron who had installed a kit prior and he talked me through some questions I had. Now that I've had it on for a few weeks, I must say that getting rid of the torsion bars and sway bar is an improvement in ride and handling. Is it worth it? Tough call. If you've already put on aftermarket shocks and UCA's I'd say leave it as is. But if you've got to have the best front suspension you can get, this is probably the way to go. There's a reason all the current Toyota four wheel drive vehicles have coil overs.
 

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