ARCHIVE 100 Series Cat-back Exhaust

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Keep in mind that these trucks make 228hp and 302ft/lbs at crankshaft from the factory. You are going through an automatic transmission, torque converter, center transfer case, driveshaft, rear differential, and larger than stock 33" tires (larger and heavier). The difference in the numbers you're seeing is basically due to all of these factors. The power measured on a dyno is where the tires hit the ground, not at the engine.

One of our shop cars making 500whp through an automatic made approximately 600whp after swapping to a 5speed manual transmission. That gives you a good idea of how much power is lost through just the automatic transmission alone.

36% drivetrain loss is way out of line for a stock rig - those larger tires must weigh a ton. :whoops: the difference should be 18-22%.
 
36% drivetrain loss is way out of line for a stock rig - those larger tires must weigh a ton. :whoops: the difference should be 18-22%.

I think stock tires are like 47 pounds each for Michelin LTX MS...my 33" Nittos are almost 65 pounds each if not mistaken....so with the stock rims that is almost 90 pounds per corner of rotational mass that the driveline has to move. That 20lbs per tire is SIGNIFICANT when it comes to performance and engine load. One of the reasons I put in 4:88 gears...to get back near normal.
 
I think stock tires are like 47 pounds each for Michelin LTX MS...my 33" Nittos are almost 65 pounds each if not mistaken....so with the stock rims that is almost 90 pounds per corner of rotational mass that the driveline has to move. That 20lbs per tire is SIGNIFICANT when it comes to performance and engine load. One of the reasons I put in 4:88 gears...to get back near normal.

Yeah my point is that there is a 16% additional loss because of the tires being used.

When I say 18-22% I'm talking stock.

Other factors in this Dyno run are that it's 2WD - What additional gains or losses would be seen if the truck was run in it's normal config? I think what's been done is a nice basis for tuning the product but I'm not convinced a heavily intake restricted motor like ours is really gaining 18ft-lb TQ and 15HP.

I suggested the OP send me one to test on the 4WD dyno with a truck that we previously used for the DT headers. I think a number of folks here have the headers and would like to see them tested together. Keep in mind I wasn't asking for a free exhaust I was simply interested in donating my time/money to test one and send it back.

Overall I'm sure the exhaust system here adds something to the truck in terms of power and certainly noise.
 
I would definitely like to see a standardized dyno comparo as RobRed suggests in 4wd on the truck/dyno he used for the DT headers.

My interest still hinges on the pricing for the mid pipes though.
 
Are there any pics of the built in silencer/resonator? Also, any idea of the pricing of the mid pipes and cats?
 
why would you want pics of built in resonator? It has to look better than that coffee can underneath the rear... :) Then again why would you want resonator to start with...might as well keep the stock perfectly functioning OEM exhaust if want it just as quiet with resonator in place......
 
why would you want pics of built in resonator? It has to look better than that coffee can underneath the rear... :) Then again why would you want resonator to start with...might as well keep the stock perfectly functioning OEM exhaust if want it just as quiet with resonator in place......

My stock system is extremely rusted
My casts are about to rust off
Resonator because I like it somewhat quiet and once I replace my rusted headers, the system will be too loud without the resonator.
 
okay..mine had no rust so expected yours to be same since newer.... what are casts though?

figure it out. Actually, someone figured it out for you.
 
Yup, and you only have to look at the welds on each product to know the attention to detail and quality...
Thanks for the vote of confidence. For people that know quality fabrication and design it's really a no-brainer. :cheers:

Turbo manifold please :D
We can build a turbo setup for you easily. We'd need your truck here to do the fabrication. We can build it from start to finish including tuning and everything, or we can build it and you can finish it, whatever works for you. If you'd like to discuss shoot me an email baktasht@emspowered.com

If one were to choose your headers, cats and exhaust system, what would they expect as far sound level, tone and resonance?
We have not built headers for the 100-series yet at this point. What I can tell you about is the sound of our exhaust system though. You can look through the many video sound clips I added to the first post in this thread for an idea. We used a Canon 60D DSLR camera with external microphone to get the best possible real world sound quality for you guys. The sound is a very mellow, yet deep sound. It sounds nice and deep at idle but not loud to where it would annoy anyone (wifes, girlfriends, etc...), While driving in the city or highway you get a nice sound as well, it is deeper and more bass than stock but is not loud or overbearing, there is no highway drone with our exhaust and it is something you can stick on a daily driver or on a weekend fun toy. This is all without the silencer. If you want it even quieter you can add the silencer which will quiet it down considerably. With the silencer the exhaust sounds almost the same at idle, but as soon as you hit the gas the sound is much quieter than without the silencer.

Things I want to see:
plot version without smoothing - just to see the effect it has overall.
Sound clips of the truck on the highway at 2500-3000 RPM (Drone?)
The dyno graphs I posted have smoothing at 1 already (the lowest smoothing factor), which is notated on the Dynojet graphs at the top-right corner of every graph.

There are several video sound clips in the first post in this thread. Take a look at the one labeled "inside cabin, driving", here are the links again for your reference:
Inside cabin, not moving:
http://youtu.be/U0FqkjAetyU
Inside cabin, driving:
http://youtu.be/pyFgRDtPAeI
Front of vehicle, 10ft away:
http://youtu.be/LEW4GNSPMfc
Front of vehicle, 15ft away:
http://youtu.be/Ziwx_67ope8
Behind vehicle, variable distance:
http://youtu.be/95hoIvzzXT0
Behind vehicle, 8ft away:
http://youtu.be/5ScrVKy88pk
Behind vehicle, 12ft away:
http://youtu.be/cJc2xBxMM-o
Behind vehicle, 18ft away:
http://youtu.be/-eKoVAeFwqk

36% drivetrain loss is way out of line for a stock rig - those larger tires must weigh a ton. :whoops: the difference should be 18-22%.
It's hard to relay 14 years of experience in 1 post, so I'll leave it at this... Read the details in the post I made that included the dyno graph. I posted in detail how the dyno runs were done, and that explains exactly why the numbers are what they are. Tire weight is a small issue, tire size (diameter) is what changes the HP/TQ numbers more, basically has the same effect as changing your gear ratio. Disconnecting the front driveshaft and putting it in 2WD mode does not decrease your HP, it increases it. 2nd gear reads lower HP/TQ than 3rd gear, dynos were done in 2nd gear because 2nd gear is the only gear you can keep the Land Cruiser in without having it upshift/downshift from idle all the way to redline. Automatic transmissions kill a lot of power, a LOT. There's a lot more that can be said here, but basically, the numbers are totally normal. If you're not happy, sell your truck or go to a "DynoMite" or some other type of dyno that will give you false numbers that are calculated to show whatever the dyno operator wants them to show. The Dynojet is the USA standard for measuring horsepower for comparison and leaves no room for "fixing" the numbers.

pricing on the midpipe?
Highflow mid-pipes added to website and ready for orders:
http://www.emspowered.com/storefront/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=61_119_199_200

I suggested the OP send me one to test on the 4WD dyno with a truck that we previously used for the DT headers. I think a number of folks here have the headers and would like to see them tested together. Keep in mind I wasn't asking for a free exhaust I was simply interested in donating my time/money to test one and send it back.
We tested them together with the headers on the same truck. The gains were minimal and we are not going to post them until we have time to spend on proper header design for these engines. If you'd like to discuss and see those graphs send me an email baktasht@emspowered.com. That information is not for general public consumption until we get some more time to look into header design for this engine.

Are there any pics of the built in silencer/resonator? Also, any idea of the pricing of the mid pipes and cats?
why would you want pics of built in resonator? It has to look better than that coffee can underneath the rear... :) Then again why would you want resonator to start with...might as well keep the stock perfectly functioning OEM exhaust if want it just as quiet with resonator in place......
Our silencer/resonator units are built INTO the tailpipe. It is not visible from the outside. I can take some photos of our hand built resonator/silencers before they are installed for you if you'd like.
 
Thanks for getting the mid pipe pricing up on the site, this is looking promising. I have a question on the cats though- you offer no cats, 1 cat, or 2 cats per pipe... and 2 pipes per truck obviously. Do I need 1 cat or 2 cats per midpipe? My #1 goal is being able to pass emissions and not having CEL codes, #2 goal is the performance upgrade. thanks! :beer:
 
Thanks for getting the mid pipe pricing up on the site, this is looking promising. I have a question on the cats though- you offer no cats, 1 cat, or 2 cats per pipe... and 2 pipes per truck obviously. Do I need 1 cat or 2 cats per midpipe? My #1 goal is being able to pass emissions and not having CEL codes, #2 goal is the performance upgrade. thanks! :beer:
The way we build the mid-pipes your factory ECU/computer will stay happy with either a 1 or 2 cats per mid-pipe. It may also do fine with no cats at all (we haven't had a chance to test with no cats on a factory ECU/computer yet on the 100-series).

As far as passing emissions tests you will pass the "sniffer" portion of the emissions tests fine with a single cat per mid-pipe in most cases (as long as your vehicle is running properly). Depending on what county and location you live in the inspector may fail you on the "visual" inspection if they don't see 2 cats per mid-pipe (this depends mainly on the local laws in your county and sometimes how picky the inspector is).
 
The way we build the mid-pipes your factory ECU/computer will stay happy with either a 1 or 2 cats per mid-pipe. It may also do fine with no cats at all (we haven't had a chance to test with no cats on a factory ECU/computer yet on the 100-series).

As far as passing emissions tests you will pass the "sniffer" portion of the emissions tests fine with a single cat per mid-pipe in most cases (as long as your vehicle is running properly). Depending on what county and location you live in the inspector may fail you on the "visual" inspection if they don't see 2 cats per mid-pipe (this depends mainly on the local laws in your county and sometimes how picky the inspector is).

I don't really see why its much of an issue. Once you have removed the OEM mid pipe, just keep it around. Then every 1-2 years you need to do the inspection, swap it for the day, get the inspection, then swap it back. Swapping out the midpipe would take less than 20 minutes if you have new bolts that have antisieze on em.
 
Layonnn said:
I don't really see why its much of an issue. Once you have removed the OEM mid pipe, just keep it around. Then every 1-2 years you need to do the inspection, swap it for the day, get the inspection, then swap it back. Swapping out the midpipe would take less than 20 minutes if you have new bolts that have antisieze on em.

Except that I was hoping to sell my stock exhaust setup to help fund the upgrade. And I already have skid plates that require removal to change the oil, I don't want another mod that requires being undone, even if it's only once a year or two.
 
baktasht said:
The way we build the mid-pipes your factory ECU/computer will stay happy with either a 1 or 2 cats per mid-pipe. It may also do fine with no cats at all (we haven't had a chance to test with no cats on a factory ECU/computer yet on the 100-series).

As far as passing emissions tests you will pass the "sniffer" portion of the emissions tests fine with a single cat per mid-pipe in most cases (as long as your vehicle is running properly). Depending on what county and location you live in the inspector may fail you on the "visual" inspection if they don't see 2 cats per mid-pipe (this depends mainly on the local laws in your county and sometimes how picky the inspector is).

Ok thanks- any performance difference to be expected with 2cats per pipe compared to one? The cost is pretty close, so leaning towards going all in here just to be on the safe side. I am guessing that Denver emissions regulations are right up there just behind California, in terms of scrutiny... I have certainly had some memorable times over there. Perhaps it's tougher here since we're a mile closer to the ozone layer than most of the country... I dunno I continue to aim for those sniffer vans on on ramps so I never have to go back.
 
Will adding the hi flow cats alter the exhaust sound? If so, how?
 
Ok thanks- any performance difference to be expected with 2cats per pipe compared to one? The cost is pretty close, so leaning towards going all in here just to be on the safe side. I am guessing that Denver emissions regulations are right up there just behind California, in terms of scrutiny... I have certainly had some memorable times over there. Perhaps it's tougher here since we're a mile closer to the ozone layer than most of the country... I dunno I continue to aim for those sniffer vans on on ramps so I never have to go back.
There is no performance difference between one or two high flow cats in the system on a stock truck. If you have a supercharger bolted on you will notice a 2-3% drop in power when adding the second high flow catalytic converter typically.

Will adding the hi flow cats alter the exhaust sound? If so, how?
The volume is not really different with a any of the high flow cat configurations on the mid-pipes, but the tone of the exhaust changes slightly. It is ever so slightly more "deep" sounding with the dual cats. But it is very hard to distinguish the difference unless you have both setups side by side and listening to both. They sound almost the same since the pipe diameter, bends, pipe length are still the same.
 

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