ARCHIVE 100 Series 1" Body Lift

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

The other problem that I had was the steering shaft was very close to the body where it passes through the firewall. The intermediate shaft would rub the body plate and rattle really bad. It felt like something was loose in the front end. If you look under the hood, you can see where the intermediate shaft passes through the body plate and fire wall. If you're getting a rattle like feeling in your steering, this is the culprit. You can actually see on mine where it was grooving the steering shaft.

Back to work, I pulled back the soft rubber boot at the floor, released the spring clamp and loosened the bolts of the body plate. The soft rubber boot sits directly below the hard plastic boot you just cut. It's velcroed to the floor.



You have to pull all this stuff ^^ back and out of the way to file the body plate down. Remove the gold bolts, loosen that gold clamp and fight your way in there.
(See FSM pics)

Then I used a Dremel tool with a side-cut bit and made the hole wider for the steering shaft to pass through. Now, the steering should be back to normal after the spacer and the rattle is gone from the wheel/floorboard. Done..... I only wish this job was as quick and easy as typing it up!


Under the hood.....but the work has to be done from under the steering wheel behind the pedals.


FSM pics....
The red arrow points to the shaft that passes through the body and hole cover. The hole cover is metal and that's what needs to be ground out and widened.

The red circle around the LOWER COVER on the other page shows the boot that needs to be cut to access the nuts/bolts to install the spacers.

001 - Copy (2).webp


001 (2).webp
 
Last edited:
Nice post Stan!

I also added a piece of dense foam pipe insulation to help keep dust from getting past where the steering shaft passes through the firewall. Up until doing this several months ago I could see a bit more of Utah's red dust and Nevada's white dust getting past than I wanted ;)
 
Nice post Stan!

I also added a piece of dense foam pipe insulation to help keep dust from getting past where the steering shaft passes through the firewall. Up until doing this several months ago I could see a bit more of Utah's red dust and Nevada's white dust getting past than I wanted ;)

That's a great idea! I happened to be at Lowes this afternoon buying more Halloween lights and picked up a piece of pipe foam to give this a try. Anything that cuts down dust is worth a shot. I've got Moab dust that I can never get rid of.
 
Has anyone done the lift with stock front and rear bumpers?

can they be adjusted to fit?

Wildsmith did it a while back. It looked very clean. Nick (2000UZJ) cut and raised his stock rear bumper as well.

It's not an adjustment, but rather a cut and refit.
 
Phil, if you do this post up.
 
2'' with all the pieces please

What are your plans for a 2" body lift? X2 on the post up when you do it. There's a lot of work involved, it will be interesting to see how you tackle it.

Steering will be an issue for sure and also figuring out how to lower the radiator enough. The transfer case extender (that's and easy fix) and I think you'll need to do something with the a/c lines too. It's a serious project.

What type of bumpers do you have?
 
What are your plans for a 2" body lift? X2 on the post up when you do it. There's a lot of work involved, it will be interesting to see how you tackle it.

Steering will be an issue for sure and also figuring out how to lower the radiator enough. The transfer case extender (that's and easy fix) and I think you'll need to do something with the a/c lines too. It's a serious project.

What type of bumpers do you have?
hi,as it being a ifs front not much room to move easy to lift the body to suit 35 also need to fit my homemade winch gigglepin type as where i go everybody seems to be running at least 35s to 37 ruts are to deep for 32/33 end up with to much damage.
 
hi,as it being a ifs front not much room to move easy to lift the body to suit 35 also need to fit my homemade winch gigglepin type as where i go everybody seems to be running at least 35s to 37 ruts are to deep for 32/33 end up with to much damage.

I do not rub with 35 MT's and a 1" body lift. 37's would be different and you'll have a few more things to remove/relocate to fit those. Looking forward to seeing how you go about it. Post up some pics and a report along the way. 37's and 2"BL will be a huge project and I'm sure lots of other folks would like to see it too.
 
Never know until you're elbow deep in trouble but IIRC to get 37's on a 100 I calc'd ~3". As long as you're this deep might as well raise the engine/tranny/t-case to make up some or all the BL difference and get more between the front and rear wheels belly clearance.

Looking forward to watching this one from the bleachers :D
 
are these ever going to be back in stock?
 
are these ever going to be back in stock?
idk my brothers lx needs one it would be much appreciated, but it isn't hard to make your own kit, particularly if you only do a half inch
 
Super easy to build yourself. However, you don't save any $ doing it yourself. That makes the kit nice.
 
I agree, hope is not lost in either circumstance is all I'm saying:D
lets hope my body lift goes smoothly this weekend and I will post up if anyone still needs a diy
 
Part of the benefit of buying the duider kit is the steering shaft extension.
Otherwise I'd just make my own.
 
and the radiator lowering brackets...
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom