1" Bora Spacer Install (2 Viewers)

[luke27617]

I actually have two of these for sale in classifieds section (for a 200 series, not four - just a pair). On OEM Toyota wheels there isn't enough space in the "pockets" or "voids" or whatever you want to call it for the wheel studs to fit - so you have to slightly shorten the factory studs. Like an 1/8" or less. With aftermarket wheels who knows.

If anyone wants to give them a try be my guest

SOLD - Louisiana: 200 Series Bora wheel spacers - 3/4" Hub Centric 5 bolt pattern - new never used

I have a pair of wheel spacers (two total spacers) for a 200 series Land Cruiser or LX. These are high quality Bora brand hub-centric spacers made to order. These are 3/4" thick, which on OEM Land Cruiser wheels will require a very slight shaving down of the OEM wheel studs. Other wheels may...

forum.ih8mud.com

Thanks for feedback. Definitely don't want to deal with cutting studs. Looks like 1" it is.....

 

[prwillard2]

Why voids warranty? Seems like the right thing to do to keep things secured.

Not sure. Probably liability or something. Putting them on with power tools and to the wrong torque specs also voids the warranty as well.

 

[Mdog97]

This is all very helpful - thank you. I was chatting with a local LC200 driver last night who's been running the 1.25" SpiderTrax for years with his Rock Warriors and 35" AT tires...that news is giving me the confidence to go with these when I swap out for the TRD BBS wheels and mall cruiser Michelins shortly. I definitely like 1" better than 1.25". Off to order from Bora.

Also, good to know in advance that they won't work with my future winter wheels (my current OEM 18").

 

[Mdog97]

Sorry - RIF (Reading Is Fundamental) - just went back and re-read the thread again. Now I'm tracking the differences between 1" and 0.75" - thank you for the correction @Nola622. I think 1", with the ability to run both sets of wheels, is probably the sweet spot for me, so I'll be going with 1".

(You mention in your 3/4" for sale listing that you were going to run them on the front, but now you're running 1" on the front. Are you also running 1" on the rear, or something else?)

Is customwheeloffset.com Pair of Aluminum 1in BORA Spacers - https://www.customwheeloffset.com/store/spacers/26751/pair-of-aluminum-1in-bora-spacers the place to get them, or is there some other place I should go?

Also also, as these come without hardware, what size/type of nuts should I be buying?

 

[dnh1]

I would like spacers but do not want rubbing. I had 1.25 Spidertraxx on a previous LC with BP-51 lift and hated the rubbing in reverse. I would do the 1" Bora if no rubbing, or the .75 without trimming the studs . . . no easy solution unfortunately.

I had a 1987 4Runner back in HS and college. I loved the way the wheels stuck off the side of the truck and the aggressive stance it had. I hate the way the 200 looks like the wheels are tucked underneath. Drives me nuts. Looks like those weird pickups that the utility company drives on railroad tracks . . . but again no easy solution.

 

[indycole]

I recently asked Bora about the threadlocker issue in their instructions. Apparently, a bunch of people put threadlocker on the spacer wheel studs in addition to or in place of putting threadlocker on the hub studs. That'd cause problems for sure. They definitely don't warranty anything if you use threadlocker, but indicated there's no problem using threadlocker as long as you know where it goes.

I tried 1-inch Bora spacers with OEM wheels and 305/70r18s and had quite a bit of rubbing on the UCA. I swapped to Spidertrax 1.25-inch which provides just enough clearance on the UCA for this tire and wheel combination. The Bora spacers were definitely a tighter fit around the hub and wheel. I had to pop the wheels off with a pry bar.

 

[21200]

I just got a 3/4" set in the mail, have yet to install.

Looks great!

 

[prwillard2]

Sorry - RIF (Reading Is Fundamental) - just went back and re-read the thread again. Now I'm tracking the differences between 1" and 0.75" - thank you for the correction @Nola622. I think 1", with the ability to run both sets of wheels, is probably the sweet spot for me, so I'll be going with 1".

(You mention in your 3/4" for sale listing that you were going to run them on the front, but now you're running 1" on the front. Are you also running 1" on the rear, or something else?)

Is customwheeloffset.com Pair of Aluminum 1in BORA Spacers - https://www.customwheeloffset.com/store/spacers/26751/pair-of-aluminum-1in-bora-spacers the place to get them, or is there some other place I should go?

Also also, as these come without hardware, what size/type of nuts should I be buying?

Wheel Adapters, Wheel Spacers, Hub Rings for your car! | Motorsport Tech - https://www.motorsport-tech.com/bora.html
is the place I got mine. They come with all required hardware.

Additionally, they're made by an American company in Reno Nevada, if that means anything to you.

The spacers come "anodized" so they're not raw aluminum.

 

[mcgaskins]

Based on my calculation 0.75" would be ideal. Is there enough room in the back of the wheel for sticking out studs?

I actually have two of these for sale in classifieds section (for a 200 series, not four - just a pair). On OEM Toyota wheels there isn't enough space in the "pockets" or "voids" or whatever you want to call it for the wheel studs to fit - so you have to slightly shorten the factory studs. Like an 1/8" or less. With aftermarket wheels who knows.

If anyone wants to give them a try be my guest

SOLD - Louisiana: 200 Series Bora wheel spacers - 3/4" Hub Centric 5 bolt pattern - new never used

I have a pair of wheel spacers (two total spacers) for a 200 series Land Cruiser or LX. These are high quality Bora brand hub-centric spacers made to order. These are 3/4" thick, which on OEM Land Cruiser wheels will require a very slight shaving down of the OEM wheel studs. Other wheels may...

forum.ih8mud.com

To be clear, the 1" spacers will work with your winter wheels. The 3/4" spacers are the ones that require stud trimming on OEM Toyota wheels.

I would like spacers but do not want rubbing. I had 1.25 Spidertraxx on a previous LC with BP-51 lift and hated the rubbing in reverse. I would do the 1" Bora if no rubbing, or the .75 without trimming the studs . . . no easy solution unfortunately.

I had a 1987 4Runner back in HS and college. I loved the way the wheels stuck off the side of the truck and the aggressive stance it had. I hate the way the 200 looks like the wheels are tucked underneath. Drives me nuts. Looks like those weird pickups that the utility company drives on railroad tracks . . . but again no easy solution.

Here are the 0.75" Bora spacers on a 2016, and they did not require cutting of studs or any modification to fit. They have been on the truck since April 2019 with zero issues, and I would have never installed if they required any modification.

 

[dnh1]

Here are the 0.75" Bora spacers on a 2016, and they did not require cutting of studs or any modification to fit. They have been on the truck since April 2019 with zero issues, and I would have never installed if they required any modification.

I have the BBS TRD 18" wheels (same that come on the Heritage). I wonder if the .75s will work with them? If so, I am 100% in.

 

[prwillard2]

I have the BBS TRD 18" wheels (same that come on the Heritage). I wonder if the .75s will work with them? If so, I am 100% in.

I think they would. Quite a large recess in the BBS wheels.

 

[Mdog97]

Thanks again @Nola622 - just ordered 4 x 1" from the mfr at the link provided. Thanks too @prwillard2 - the first place I had found didn't sell them with hardware, which is why I asked.

 

[prwillard2]

Thanks again @Nola622 - just ordered 4 x 1" from the mfr at the link provided. Thanks too @prwillard2 - the first place I had found didn't sell them with hardware, which is why I asked.

Enjoy! Post up some pics once you get them installed.

 

[TeCKis300]

As with these things, there lots's of considerations and compromises. What works for one may not be the right solution for others because of some variables. I'll try to lay out some variables here:

1) Scrub Radius - Overall Tire Diameter is keyed to wheel offset. Goal is not necessarily to be spot on, but the greater the deviation, the larger the potential impacts.

Tire Diameter vs. Optimal Offset
32.7" 50mm
33.5" 40mm
34.5" 32mm

Most factory 200-series wheels are 60mm offset. Some newer ones are 56mm. Rock warriors are 50mm as they are already dialed in optimally for 285/70R17 (32.7" tires). So one may not want to stack a larger wheel spacer on this.
.75" spacer = +41mm
1" spacer = +35mm
1.25" spacer = +28mm

2) Clearance - Pushing the wheel and tires out help to some extent to make clearance for larger and wider tires. Go too far, and it may create more issues than it solves as the front tire no longer pivots in place, but takes a wide swing as it pivots. Offsets lower than about +30mm start creating significant swing creating more plastic or potentially body mount clearance issues. For really tall tires into the 34" plus range, potentially combined with wide tires, it can start rubbing the UCA and KDSS (for LCs).

3) Track Width - Fortunately scrub radius and clearance for bigger tires are well aligned here and spacing wheels out can help lateral stability against the raised center of gravity. From both the tire lift, but also any suspension lift. IRS suspensions in front when lifted, put LCAs at a steeper angle which tends to narrow the front track width. IMO, overall lift is best achieved with a combination of tire lift and suspension lift, prioritizing tire size while moderating suspension lift. Tires have great advantages including real lift under the rear axle, something that no amount of suspension lift will change for solid axle. Too much suspension lift also creates suspension geometry issues with ill handling, toe steer, and stability compromises.

4) Wheel compatibility with protruding studs from wheel spacers
While most wheels have pockets for protruding studs with 1" or .75" spacers, not all do. Notably some LX 2013-2015 wheels seem not to have these pockets. I personally would not shorten studs, rather clearance the soft aluminum wheels where they studs protrude. Aluminum is easy to work and clearance.

5) Loctite is A good thing for internal spacer lugs. IMO Loctite is itself a mitigation. Lugs when torqued appropriately, just like wheels lugs, do not back out. Aluminum wheels and aluminum spacers, because of the relatively soft metal, have been known to take a set after initial install. Therefore it's generally recommended to torque again after some nominal (50-100) miles. Some spacer instructions differ, but from my mechanical experience, I would torque twice and apply blue threadlocker to the internal spacer lugs. Also use incrementally (10%) more torque than spec as studs have lots of margin for added torque while too little is inherently more dangerous. I know some spacers like Spidertrax do not call out a second round of torque and prefer to use Loctite red but that may be a procedural accommodation.

 

[Hoosier Daddy]

Wait, hold on...

It sounds like people are saying that the 1" spacers don't require trimming of the studs, but the 0.75" spacers do (when used with wheels that don't have the recesses on the back).

This is actually a problem with the 1" spacers too. With the 1" spacers, there will be some very small amount of lug protrusion. It is small, but large enough to keep a wheel from sitting completely flush onto the spacer, which will in turn lead to the lugs loosening over time.

So please don't buy 1" spacers without a plan for mitigating that issue, whether it be trimming or choosing a wheel with the recesses.

 

[Hoosier Daddy]

It isn't just about the depth of the recesses. It's also about how close the recesses are to the hub.

The point is that if a specific wheel is incompatible with a 0.75" spacer, that same wheel will also have an issue with a 1" spacer.

For reference:

1" wheel spacers issue LX 570

I have had 1 inch spacers on my LX for over a year and didn't really have any issue that I could attribute to them. Recently I had a tire rotation and noticed a vibration. This is when I started to get worried. 1. I found that my wheel nuts were loose on all my wheels! What, how could that be...

forum.ih8mud.com

For reference

 

[gx2lc]

Yes they work! Have seen tons of questions about "what's the thinnest spacer you can run". Most claim it's 1.25". Well, installed my Bora 1" spacers today and they work perfectly. The rear axle seems to have a touch longer studs than the front axle, but given the recess in the BBS HE wheels zero issues with getting these on.

First photo is stock with 275/70R18 Toyo AT3s. Second is with the spacer installed on only the front wheel.

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View attachment 2726714

Thanks for sharing! Any chance you could share a side and 3/4 angle pic with everything mounted? Would love to see how offset + 33s looks. Thanks!!

 

[prwillard2]

Thanks for sharing! Any chance you could share a side and 3/4 angle pic with everything mounted? Would love to see how offset + 33s looks. Thanks!!

Post 4 is the best I have right now. I'll take some more pics on Wednesday. Right now the truck is in the shop getting PPF and window tinting done.

 

[prwillard2]

Thanks for sharing! Any chance you could share a side and 3/4 angle pic with everything mounted? Would love to see how offset + 33s looks. Thanks!!

Unfortunately even after using the heat gun to massage the fender liner, I've got the slightest rub on the drivers side suspension bar (not sure what it's called unfortunately) at full right lock. Once I wear maybe 1/32 off these tires should be good to go.

 

[gx2lc]

Hey thanks a lot for documenting this @prwillard2 very helpful! I’m considering the same setup based off your posts. Is the rubbing your seeing on the stock suspension? I have a 2” Dobinsons lift, I am not sure if that might alter the geometry favorably