1" wheel spacers issue LX 570 (5 Viewers)

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Jun 5, 2015
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I have had 1 inch spacers on my LX for over a year and didn't really have any issue that I could attribute to them.

Recently I had a tire rotation and noticed a vibration. This is when I started to get worried.
1. I found that my wheel nuts were loose on all my wheels! What, how could that be my dealer must be incompetent I thought. I tightened all the nuts.
2. Vibration comes and goes still. I try to tighten again, but everything is tight.
3. I wonder if my spacers are loose? So I decided to take the wheels off and tighten the spacers. This is when I found the issue.

It appeared to me that the nuts holding the spacers we're protruding slightly PAST the spacers! Hmm, I thought, that's odd, then I looked at the back side of the the wheels! What I saw was dents shaped like nuts and studs! Issue confirmed!

Now everything made sense. I remembered that shortly after putting my spacers on I had loose wheel nuts also, but I thought it was nothing so I just tighten the nuts and move on. But now, I get a tire rotation and none of the dents match up, so since the mating surface is so compromised, it gets chewed up faster, that's why I noticed the vibration.

My current solution was to remove the spacers since the studs are longer than 1" we cannot use anything shorter than 1.25"!

Now I am wondering if I have damaged my wheels irreparably, test drive seemed ok, but I will be keeping a close eye on them. Also considering new wheels and tires now since I don't like the tucked in look.
 
Spacers are pretty much a no-no. Maybe you can find rims with suitable back spacing to give a wider stance.
 
Spacers are okay if they are well made and monitored..... Slee / BORA and others make high end versions that work well to accomplish specific use /t fit needs . I ran them on my built 200 for 50+K with no issues....

cheap spacers are a disaster waiting for a place to happen. these don't sound like bolt on spacers ? it's tough to get the studs right and the lengths right often - I tried.....

where are you located and can you have dealer install ome studs and forgo the spacers ? why are you using them ?

E
 
They are probably bolt on spacers, the issue is the factory studs are longer than the 1" spacer and stick out past the spacer and are not letting the wheels seat properly.

To run the 1" spacers you would need to swap out the factory studs for shorter studs. The 1.25" spacers seem to clear the studs just fine though and that is a much easier option.
 
I have ran spacers on many vehicles. Like @RS6tofj80 says, spend a couple extra bucks for the quality ones. You only hear about issues with the cheap ebay/ amazon ones. I like to put lock tite on the inner lugs just for piece of mind. I have had to service / remove spacer a few times for services like brakes and wheel hub repacking, They always feel nice and tight when I would like to think the lock tite helps.... like @Ali FJ80 says, 1.25'' seems to be the perfect size on most Toyota / Lexus SUV's.
 
Any chance you can take a pic of the spacer and mounting surface of the wheel?

What wheels are you running?

I run 1" spacer on stock LX wheels. I don't have these issues. If I recall, the wheels have reliefs between the stud position?
 
I have had 1 inch spacers on my LX for over a year and didn't really have any issue that I could attribute to them.

Recently I had a tire rotation and noticed a vibration. This is when I started to get worried.
1. I found that my wheel nuts were loose on all my wheels! What, how could that be my dealer must be incompetent I thought. I tightened all the nuts.
2. Vibration comes and goes still. I try to tighten again, but everything is tight.
3. I wonder if my spacers are loose? So I decided to take the wheels off and tighten the spacers. This is when I found the issue.

It appeared to me that the nuts holding the spacers we're protruding slightly PAST the spacers! Hmm, I thought, that's odd, then I looked at the back side of the the wheels! What I saw was dents shaped like nuts and studs! Issue confirmed!

Now everything made sense. I remembered that shortly after putting my spacers on I had loose wheel nuts also, but I thought it was nothing so I just tighten the nuts and move on. But now, I get a tire rotation and none of the dents match up, so since the mating surface is so compromised, it gets chewed up faster, that's why I noticed the vibration.

My current solution was to remove the spacers since the studs are longer than 1" we cannot use anything shorter than 1.25"!

Now I am wondering if I have damaged my wheels irreparably, test drive seemed ok, but I will be keeping a close eye on them. Also considering new wheels and tires now since I don't like the tucked in look.

What brand spacers?
 
Any chance you can take a pic of the spacer and mounting surface of the wheel?

What wheels are you running?

I run 1" spacer on stock LX wheels. I don't have these issues. If I recall, the wheels have reliefs between the stud position?
I might do it later. I actually don't have any issue with the spacers or the nuts holding them on, (edit: front lug nuts were protruding but so we're the studs) everything was as tight as could be. They are not cheap. The are hub centric. The bolt protrusion wasn't much maybe 1/8 inch at most and it wasn't that obvious to me that the wheels were not seated fully. Because the hub centric ring did protrude into the wheel hub. Once tightened there must have been some millimeter of space left that I couldn't see it through the wheel spokes at an angle. The wheels are stock LX 20 inch for 2013 model.
 
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I would bet at 1 inch they are not hub centric spacers.

relook at your wheel and tire combo. Also what is the reason for the spacers? Tire clearance?

@RS6tofj80 is correct
They are quality billet aluminum hub centric spacers. It's just that the OEM studs are too long and 2 sets of lug nuts were included one of which protrudes past the face of the spacers. Instructions said I needed to use them on the front only. I will post pictures later today.

Reasons: looks, don't like tucked in look. Copy setup used by others.

This is meant to be a PSA.. so others don't fall into the same hole as me.
 
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I have 285/50/20 now. Stock size.

Your thread width is 9.3”. My thread width is 10.1” plus the lugs on the side of the BFG’s make it even wider.
BFG AT/KO2’s in the 305/55/20 thread width is 10.2” only .1” wider. But they are “E” rated.
 
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Your thread width is 9.3”. My thread width is 10.1” plus the lugs on the side of the BFG’s make it even wider.
BFG AT/KO2’s in the 305/55/20 thread width is 10.2” only .1” wider. But they are “E” rated.

Sorry, but this is confusing the issue. People use spacers for a number of reasons, including myself. Just because BFG's run narrow in 305 sizing, doesn't mean that your 285s are wide. My 305/55/20s are 12.3" width. A substantial enough difference that I do need spacers. Consider that with 1" spacers, and my 2.1" wider tires, this puts my sidewalls over 2" farther out than your sidewalls. On each side. Making for an over 4" wider track at the outward facing sidewall.
 
I might do it later. I actually don't have any issue with the spacers or the nuts holding them on, (edit: front lug nuts were protruding but so we're the studs) everything was as tight as could be. They are not cheap. The are hub centric. The bolt protrusion wasn't much maybe 1/8 inch at most and it wasn't that obvious to me that the wheels were not seated fully. Because the hub centric ring did protrude into the wheel hub. Once tightened there must have been some millimeter of space left that I couldn't see it through the wheel spokes at an angle. The wheels are stock LX 20 inch for 2013 model.

This is really interesting. I run stock wheels, and also I believe, the same spacers you have. IIRC, my stock wheels have reliefs built into the face of the wheel hub, such that the stud and nuts don't interfere. I almost wonder if the 2013 wheels don't have this relief built in?

Consider that there are also .75" spacers. The OEM wheel studs aren't shorter there. They most definitely protrude past the spacer. And again, the wheel hub has reliefs where these studs sit.

Thanks for this PSA, definitely something to pay attention to.

BTW, I do blue locktite my wheels spacer nuts since these can't be accessed to torque check. As a matter of practice when I fit new wheel equipment, I will go back and re-torque after ~50 miles and everything takes a set. Especially important on new aluminum spacers or wheels. I applied locktite upon the second torquing.
 
I have .75” Bora spacers and there is no issue with bolts. Rock Warrior wheels have space for bolt protrusions built into them though...as do many wheels.
 
I haven't taken the wheels off to take pictures yet since it's raining here. But here are some of the spacers and nuts. As you can see I just laid them on the spacer and they protrude just a bit. My 2013 wheels definitely don't have cut outs on the backside.

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For comparison here is the back of a 2008 wheel. As you can see the cut out gets closer to the hub ring leaving more room for the nut to protrude. So you might be just fine if you don't have 2013 wheels.

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Sorry, but this is confusing the issue. People use spacers for a number of reasons, including myself. Just because BFG's run narrow in 305 sizing, doesn't mean that your 285s are wide. My 305/55/20s are 12.3" width. A substantial enough difference that I do need spacers. Consider that with 1" spacers, and my 2.1" wider tires, this puts my sidewalls over 2" farther out than your sidewalls. On each side. Making for an over 4" wider track at the outward facing sidewall.

Not Talking section width I’m talking treadwidth your tires are 10.4 inches. When I bought them you convinced me the widest treadwidth was the best thing for stability. If your tires tread width is wider the tires are going to stick out further.
 

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