1” Body Lift, +/- OEM strut spacer, stock wheels +/- spacers and 285/70 18

[shelby95]

I know this topic has been discussed as nauseam, but wanted to ask about this specific set up: 1” Body Lift, +/- OEM strut spacer, stock wheels +/- spacers and 285/70 18 or 285/75 18.

TeCKis300, bloc among others have suggested that a suspension lift may be more than I need and that a body lift may better meet my needs/wants of larger tires for a bit more ground clearance.

Thanks.

 

[shelby95]

2013 LC 200

 

[TeCKis300]

You're on the right track. Creating lift with a combined approach is the ticket. Easy button is to dial suspension lift to the max, but that won't come close to how much better it can be tuned in this manner. It's going to take a bit more effort but this would be my recipe for a high performing LC.

285/70R18 (+1.1" lift)
Excellent choice at 33.7" tall and will still play nice with KDSS. This is going to be the only mod that actually creates more lift under the rear axle. Gearing and braking will still be good, and won't require re-gearing like a taller tire will need. This will create more approach, departure, and breakover as it's not only taller, but the faces of the tire will be further forward and aft. All that rubber will add to suspension and articulation capability when aired down, with more compliance, traction, while making all holes and obstacles smaller.

1" body lift (+1" lift)
Best kind of lift bar none with almost zero drivability and handling compromises. You can tuck the front and rear bumpers up a matching amount to create better approach and departure. There's a good chance you can shim up sliders if you're headed that way too.

+35mm Effective Offset
Either aftermarket wheels or use a 1" spacer with stock +60mm wheels. This will keep suspension geometry and scrub radius just about perfect for the 33.7" tires. Increasing track width for sidehill stability. Less bump steer. While making everything fit easier and with more clearance (than with lower offsets). Sure, you can do +25 offset or a 1.25" spacer, but keeping great suspension geometry is king IMO.

Suspension Lift (+1.25" lift)
While I'm a proponent of less suspension lift, some lift is still good. Add the fact that aftermarket shocks are typically longer adding travel. The stock 200-series keeps most of its travel in droop (5.5") with only about 3.5" in compression. For fast Baja type running, having some more compression travel is beneficial while the added shock stroke maintains down-travel. So something like a 1-1.5" lift is perfect, keeping all goodness of geometry, and reaping benefits elsewhere. IMO, the ticket is Bilstein's with great all around tuning and a slightly sportier digressive valving. It comes with multiple perch positions on the front shock body so a mild lift with the stock springs is possible. Pair that with a mild 20mm spacer lift in the rear. While everyone else is chasing stiff spring rates, the stock tender springs are going to be so good and slinky in the rough stuff. Paired with that digressive shock for better control of the larger wheel/tire and better overall vehicle stability. Sure, if you're going to add gear with lots of installed overlanding weight, you might need more spring, but less is more IMO.

Overall, that's going to stack up nicely to an aesthetically pleasing 3.3" total lift. Even better is that it'll seriously perform in all conditions with factory like drivability and little compromise.

Back on weight, in the words Colin Chapman - Simplify, then add lightness. No less true a principle to off-roading... for performance, capability, durability, just about everything. I'll pay more for gear that is simpler and lighter where possible.

Bonus
Add Durobumps all around if you like high speed running. Will make for plusher and controlled hard hits and g-outs.

 

[shelby95]

Wow. About as succinct as they come. Thank you. To be fair, my proposed set up was based on an aggregate of info from you and a few others that put me on the “right track.” Truly appreciate it.

 

[shelby95]

And thumbs up to the Chapman reference, his words ring true in the air cooled world, too.

 

[Heckraiser]

I fit 285/75r18 (35x11) on a completely stock truck. no sensor lift, no body lift, nothing. Just pushed the front wheelwell plastics forward about an inch, removed front mudflap and bent back the little mudflap bracket. This was running a 1" spacer on stock tundra wheels. This was an LX570, so no KDSS to deal with.

Since you've got a LC, there is some merit with going with a 285/70r18 instead, but for offroad, I think bigger tires really are worth the effort. Maybe a KDSS relocation bracket will get you there (in combination with the above-mentioned clearance mods).

People think of suspension lift and tires together, but that's kind of the old way of thinking. In reality, it shouldn't matter what kind of suspension you run for any given tire size. If it rubs on stock suspension, it will also rub with a suspension lift, once you get on the trail and flex it out. That isn't to say there isn't any benefit to suspension lifts--many of them feature much better damping and spring rates for specific driving styles or heavy loads. And the additional clearance at the front skidplate and belly are also important if you're getting into the rocks. But when it comes to fitting larger tires, you should really be thinking about what will fit when fully compressed and on the bumpstops--suspension really doesn't factor in. This is where a body lift has some advantages--its the only type of lift that actually increases tire clearance at full compression (at the fenders at least, not necessarily against the frame, body mount or swaybar).

If you do decide to go with a body lift, BudBuilt sells a 200 slider that is already designed for 1" body lift, so it will look right and give you more clearance at the rockers. Unfortunately, not compatible with my Lexus

 

[Supra Turbo]

You're on the right track. Creating lift with a combined approach is the ticket. Easy button is to dial suspension lift to the max, but that won't come close to how much better it can be tuned in this manner. It's going to take a bit more effort but this would be my recipe for a high performing LC.

285/70R18 (+1.1" lift)
Excellent choice at 33.7" tall and will still play nice with KDSS. This is going to be the only mod that actually creates more lift under the rear axle. Gearing and braking will still be good, and won't require re-gearing like a taller tire will need. This will create more approach, departure, and breakover as it's not only taller, but the faces of the tire will be further forward and aft. All that rubber will add to suspension and articulation capability when aired down, with more compliance, traction, while making all holes and obstacles smaller.

1" body lift (+1" lift)
Best kind of lift bar none with almost zero drivability and handling compromises. You can tuck the front and rear bumpers up a matching amount to create better approach and departure. There's a good chance you can shim up sliders if you're headed that way too.

+35mm Effective Offset
Either aftermarket wheels or use a 1" spacer with stock +60mm wheels. This will keep suspension geometry and scrub radius just about perfect for the 33.7" tires. Increasing track width for sidehill stability. Less bump steer. While making everything fit easier and with more clearance (than with lower offsets). Sure, you can do +25 offset or a 1.25" spacer, but keeping great suspension geometry is king IMO.

Suspension Lift (+1.25" lift)
While I'm a proponent of less suspension lift, some lift is still good. Add the fact that aftermarket shocks are typically longer adding travel. The stock 200-series keeps most of its travel in droop (5.5") with only about 3.5" in compression. For fast Baja type running, having some more compression travel is beneficial while the added shock stroke maintains down-travel. So something like a 1-1.5" lift is perfect, keeping all goodness of geometry, and reaping benefits elsewhere. IMO, the ticket is Bilstein's with great all around tuning and a slightly sportier digressive valving. It comes with multiple perch positions on the front shock body so a mild lift with the stock springs is possible. Pair that with a mild 20mm spacer lift in the rear. While everyone else is chasing stiff spring rates, the stock tender springs are going to be so good and slinky in the rough stuff. Paired with that digressive shock for better control of the larger wheel/tire and better overall vehicle stability. Sure, if you're going to add gear with lots of installed overlanding weight, you might need more spring, but less is more IMO.

Overall, that's going to stack up nicely to an aesthetically pleasing 3.3" total lift. Even better is that it'll seriously perform in all conditions with factory like drivability and little compromise.

Back on weight, in the words Colin Chapman - Simplify, then add lightness. No less true a principle to off-roading... for performance, capability, durability, just about everything. I'll pay more for gear that is simpler and lighter where possible.

Bonus
Add Durobumps all around if you like high speed running. Will make for plusher and controlled hard hits and g-outs.

Nice, thanks for the detailed breakdown. Regarding the suspension lift, are you saying to use Bilsteins with factory LC springs?

I currently have Eibachs (which have slightly stiffer springs rates than stock) and E load KO2s in 285/65/18.

Wouldn't mind getting a more supple ride back of factory LC while still having the lift. The vehicle is never loaded and in current setup, a bit rough on my bad back.

Thanks Teck.

 

[DesertDoc]

I have gone part of the way down this road a like the outcome a lot. OEM spacer in the front, 1'rear spacers, kept the OEM coil and added OME nitrochargers. give 1"lift, retains rake, retains soft spring feel and good handing, while dampening the body roll and nose dive on road, and stiffer and more controlled off road without being harsh on road. I am mostly on road or in desert terrain. No big rocks to clamber over.

Very interested in the idea now of upsizing the tires to 285/70R18 to give another inch lift and 1'wheelspacer to kept geometry right bring back down CoG.

@TeCKis300 do you know if this wheel size will fit just with the spacers? Or does it also require the body lift? Otherwise can go 285/65/R18 but a full 1'more would be good in our undulating desert terrain. Car is otherwise stock 2017 without added weight of metal bumpers etc. I also believe the lighter the better.

 

[TeCKis300]

I have gone part of the way down this road a like the outcome a lot. OEM spacer in the front, 1'rear spacers, kept the OEM coil and added OME nitrochargers. give 1"lift, retains rake, retains soft spring feel and good handing, while dampening the body roll and nose dive on road, and stiffer and more controlled off road without being harsh on road. I am mostly on road or in desert terrain. No big rocks to clamber over.

Very interested in the idea now of upsizing the tires to 285/70R18 to give another inch lift and 1'wheelspacer to kept geometry right bring back down CoG.

@TeCKis300 do you know if this wheel size will fit just with the spacers? Or does it also require the body lift? Otherwise can go 285/65/R18 but a full 1'more would be good in our undulating desert terrain. Car is otherwise stock 2017 without added weight of metal bumpers etc. I also believe the lighter the better.

A 285/70R18 is generally regarded as the largest drop in size for the LC. A 1" spacer IMO is the ticket, and will work better than a 1.25" spacer for geometry and clearance. No body lift or significant work required. It'll even fit as a spare.

Mcgaskins did a great build writeup centered around this size.

As some of you may know, I had a 2014 that was built in the past, but I really liked the 2016 refresh and wanted to give the 8 speed a try to see if it worked better off road. Some pics of the 14:

I found a decent deal on a 2016 in brandywine/terra in Minnesota and had it shipped to Colorado and was pleased to find brand new Blizzaks on it with a decent set of OEM tires in the back along with the original mats and Weathertechs!

I edited this post to help be more succinct for those searching in the future. Here are pics from when it was stock and just arrived in Denver, the midpoint of the build (suspension, sliders, tires, drawers) and the endpoint of the build (bumpers, winch, snorkel, etc.). Read on for more details and the thought process behind it.