1-800-Radiator Assistance

[96FZJ80]

I've been blissfully ignorant watching my dash temp gauge sit unwavering in the middle. About a month ago on a 3 hour mostly highway drive the a/c stopped blowing cold air. Turned it off and tried it again 5-10 minutes later and had cold air again. On the 3 hour drive home several days later it did it again. This time took longer but eventually came back on. So I'm thinking I need an a/c service and /or charge. So I start reading here and now I'm thinking head gasket. Just kidding. Now I'm thinking it may have cut out due to temp. I'm away from the truck for a few months but doing my research and trying to get my ducks in a row. Have ordered an ultragauge to install when I get home and thinking about the radiator. New thermostat and hoses have been installed recently at a dealership so I'm confident in those parts. New radiator was installed about 4 years ago at a shop that I'm not so confident in. Invoice just says "radiator" and no other info. Called a few times trying to get them to check records and tell me what it is. Finally was told they got it from 1-800-radiator (I thought they were being smart-a55es) and p/n is 1-4804. That's all they know. The cap looks very generic so not sure if it's releasing at the proper pressure or not. I do get coolant in the reservoir when hot. I looked at all the parts I could see on the radiator and found a number but turns out that number has nothing to do with the radiator. So I googled 1-800-radiator and turns out you have to register in order to see anything. And you have to call them in order to register. I'm out of the country so calling them is inconvenient at BEST. So, the point of this thread... Can anyone help me out with some info on this radiator?

 

[flintknapper]

Your radiator is not likely the culprit IMO. Installing the ultra-gauge would be a good move though. It will allow you to monitor your coolant temps (among other things). As you know, the A/C will cut out once coolant temps reach about 220-226°F.

Your factory dash gauge has a big 'dead spot' in it and would not have moved enough for you to notice, so at this juncture we can't be sure the A/C cut out for coolant temp reasons.

Things to check:

1. Coolant level.
2. Radiator Cap.
3. Fan clutch (needs to be properly operating regardless your speed).
4. A/C charge if low will cause your evaporator to freeze up (Possibly the TXV as well).


I'd be looking at your fan clutch and A/C charge first.

 

[96FZJ80]

Thanks. My plan is to get the gauge installed so I can see a little more of what's going on with the temp. A/C acting up might have nothing to do with it.

Take it in for a A/C checkup.

I've always felt like the coolant level has been a bit low but that's been serviced at the dealership and I gotta assume they know what they're doing. Have 0 complaints about anything they've done for me..

I'm suspect of the cap and need to just replace that as it's cheap enough and removes a variable.

The fan clutch needs closer examination - really no data on that yet..

So the cap first, a/c service, then fan clutch.

But I'd really like to get some specs on the radiator just so I know what it is.

 

[96FZJ80]

@flintknapper. Rereading as it was a little past my bedtime last night when reading and replying before.

Is there a reason why you recommend the fan clutch before the charge? I know little to nothing about this stuff and while not afraid to swing a wrench, if it involves gauges, sst's, more than a few hours of my time (I have precious little time at home) will be taking it in to get done. In my mind getting the ultragauge hooked up and replacing the cap are things that should have been done already. So first on the list. The shop "a/c service" which I assume includes a charge if needed would be next. And if the temps are good via the new gauge and a/c still not performing up to snuff then move on to the fan clutch (which to me sounds like the bigger /costlier step).

Am I going about this wrong? Or over simplifying?

 

[flintknapper]

@flintknapper. Rereading as it was a little past my bedtime last night when reading and replying before.

Is there a reason why you recommend the fan clutch before the charge? I know little to nothing about this stuff and while not afraid to swing a wrench, if it involves gauges, sst's, more than a few hours of my time (I have precious little time at home) will be taking it in to get done. In my mind getting the ultragauge hooked up and replacing the cap are things that should have been done already. So first on the list. The shop "a/c service" which I assume includes a charge if needed would be next. And if the temps are good via the new gauge and a/c still not performing up to snuff then move on to the fan clutch (which to me sounds like the bigger /costlier step).

Am I going about this wrong? Or over simplifying?

My thought is that IF you suspect the cooling system...it would be the more important issue to check out.

Checking the fan clutch is an easy thing to do. Even changing the fan clutch (if it needs it) is well within the abilities of most folks. It is just a matter of making sure your cooling system is working well for all around peace of mind AND it 'can' be the cause of your A/C system shutting down, although the symptoms you describe point to a low refrigerant charge and your evaporator freezing up.

IF your A/C system is low on refrigerant then obviously you have a leak somewhere. It might be a slow leak that only requires topping off the system (once a year) or could be more serious.

IF your fan clutch is weak...with the engine running you can take a rolled up magazine or newspaper and SLOWLY press it against the fan blade. IF the fan blade slows appreciably or stops...your fan clutch is weak and needs to be replaced or modified with a higher CST silicone fluid. Many of us in hot climates run a modified fan clutch.

I run 20K CST fluid in a blue hub fan clutch on my 80 series. If you live/drive in Houston then we share the same weather conditions (I'm about 2 hrs. North). Not a bad thing to do...just to know your entire cooling system is up to the task. (radiator, cap, T-stat, Fluid level, fan clutch, hoses) all need to be in good working order.

Of course, checking your A/C system pressures is not difficult either...but if you are not familiar with how to do it and don't have a set of manifold gauges, then taking it to someone will be your best bet. You mentioned you do not have the luxury of getting to spend much time at home...so with 'home time' at a premium it would be best for you check the 'easy' stuff and farm the rest out.

 

[96FZJ80]

Great stuff. Will follow when I get home.

Can't get better than free advice from someone that knows what they're talking about and in the same climate. Love this place!

 

[ChaseTruck]

For what it's worth:
1. Not all radiator caps are created equally; Toyota cap may not deliver on an aftermarket radiator.
2. When our '93 lived in Baton Rouge, a blue fan clutch with 25k fluid and a new Koyo aluminum radiator was sufficient to keep the thing cool, highest temp I recall (aftermarket gauge) was 208°F.
3. Moved the '93 to Phoenix this spring; it didn't take long for cooling problems to creep up. The blue fan clutch has 50k fluid now, and per @Tools R Us/ @inkpot advice, we exchanged the (5-year-old....) Koyo 1918 radiator for a TYC, and the truck is doing much better.

 

[96FZJ80]

For what it's worth:
1. Not all radiator caps are created equally; Toyota cap may not deliver on an aftermarket radiator.
2. When our '93 lived in Baton Rouge, a blue fan clutch with 25k fluid and a new Koyo aluminum radiator was sufficient to keep the thing cool, highest temp I recall (aftermarket gauge) was 208°F.
3. Moved the '93 to Phoenix this spring; it didn't take long for cooling problems to creep up. The blue fan clutch has 50k fluid now, and per @Tools R Us/ @inkpot advice, we exchanged the (5-year-old....) Koyo 1918 radiator for a TYC, and the truck is doing much better.

I may be stating the obscenely obvious but I think that cooling system performance has got to be majorly affected by climactic conditions. I do read most of the threads and posts on the subject here but finding what works for your situation or experience from someone in your own neighborhood is the most valuable.

What is the relief pressure on the TYC cap?

 

[DSRTRDR]

just for clarification: ChaseTruck and I own the same vehicles

we didn't measure the pressure, sorry

oddly enough, the OEM cap fits best on the TYC radiator

and, our 80 isn't just "doing much better", it's DOING MUCH BETTER - like staying in the mid 180s temperatures in 110 degrees in the Phoenix area, and not going over 195 even when running 10 miles on constant uphill