Great and timely, I'm about to start on my 71. I need to replace everything under the doors on both sides. I was thinking it would be easier to remove the tub to do this. Any tips to seal underside? We still salt here in winter.
1/4 Panel patch with limited tools
- Thread starter Toyrod
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I would not take the body off until after you have fixed the rust and replaced all the panels that you are going to. A tip I learned from a old car restoration guru - do all the panel work with all 4 tires on the ground. If you do the work torn down or even up in the air on a lift, things don't fit as well when you get back together. This way, you can open and close doors, check for fit at the seams and then when your all done. Tear it down, media blast, prime, paint and re-assemble.
Unlike many people, I don't think bedliner used for undercoating is smart, unless it's an aluminum or fiberglass truck. With steel, I think this holds in moisture and causes more rust. Even if the coating does not blister or crack, the water will works it's way down from the top and be trapped in the seams.
I would also weld up some braces across the front doors, from side to side and from the top of the tub in the back and down to the rear bumper. This will hold it all in the right spacing while your cutting it out.
-Stumbaugh
Unlike many people, I don't think bedliner used for undercoating is smart, unless it's an aluminum or fiberglass truck. With steel, I think this holds in moisture and causes more rust. Even if the coating does not blister or crack, the water will works it's way down from the top and be trapped in the seams.
I would also weld up some braces across the front doors, from side to side and from the top of the tub in the back and down to the rear bumper. This will hold it all in the right spacing while your cutting it out.
-Stumbaugh
A bench clamped, hand cranked beader works well for creating panels in your shop.
Typically you will get one or more die sets when purchasing. Made sure you order the bead forming rolls.
These things really never die so look for them to be forsale from time to time used.
Typically you will get one or more die sets when purchasing. Made sure you order the bead forming rolls.
These things really never die so look for them to be forsale from time to time used.
FishNinJay
SILVER Star
This post is awesome!
Makes me want to learn to weld...
On that note.. is welding hard? How do you learn?
Where do you get the metal? (I have a good source for the cereal box cardboard
)
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Here is what $1400.00 gets you. Simple solution for the less aggressive. btw, I think $1,400 was a bargin. The new bumper was not included.
Could you post how you addressed making the rear sill. Pretty, please! I don't want to buy one from CCOT for $400.
This post is awesome!
Makes me want to learn to weld...
On that note.. is welding hard? How do you learn?
Where do you get the metal? (I have a good source for the cereal box cardboard
Learning to weld was the SINGLE, MOST IMPORTANT cost saving skill there is in this hobby/ obsession. I have literally saved THOUSANDS OF DOLLARS...YES...THOUSANDS by learning to weld.
How I learned. A buddy of mine had a 110v lincoln mig sitting around. I asked if I could borrow it. Started hitting up steel fab places (fence makers, sheet metal shops etc.) and asked if I could pick through their scrap bins...100% of them were more than happy to let you take some steel especially if you let them know you are learning to weld.
Id get home from work at night and just start burning some steel each night for about an hour. I invested in a 4.5 in angle grinder with a wire wheel and some cut off wheels to maximize the steel I had by cutting it apart, and the wire wheel for steel prep.
In 2 mos, I was doing my SOA on my FJ62. It SOOOOPER EASY! You just gotta do it. Post some pics in the "tools" section here on mud and folks will give you guidance. SERIOUSLY!!!!! Learn how to weld! It will be the BEST thing you could do for yourself. Its AMAZING to me how you could be in this past time and afford it without welding skills.
- Thread starter
- #50
On the early (Pre 75/ambulance door) FJ40s the sill is easily duplicated by any metal shop. You have a piece bent in the shape of a channel with the same outside dimension as the original. 18 gauge cold rolled will work. Then you have the inner piece bent out of 16 gauge to duplicate the original dimension. When the inner piece fits inside of the outer piece, it should have enough room to slip in the 16 or 18 gauge flat sheet metal strip that you will use to patch the floor. The outer piece will be long enough to fit in the rear opening and the inside piece will extend 4-6 inches into each quarter panel. The original was shaped to the curve of the rounded quarter panel. I have been leaving that dirt/rust collector portion out.
On the 75 up FJ40s, the piece has more complicated lines. If you need to replace the entire sill on those years, you may be money and time ahead to buy a stamped replacement.
FishNinJay
SILVER Star
Where do you buy this "16 gauge cold rolled steel"?
Luckily, I don't see much rust cancer yet, but looking to the future...
(besides, it looks kind of fun.. and I need to make a skid plate sometime soon.. what better excuse to learn-n-practice, right?!)
- Thread starter
- #52
Your local metal supplier. The same one that has angle iron, pipe, tubing, etc. If they don't have it, they can tell you where to find it locally.sd
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Check out this for rear sill. I wish I had. $165.00. https://forum.ih8mud.com/merchandis...eries-misc-metal-fabrication.html#post5565800
Here is how I did my rear sill.
The whole tail gate area was eaten away. so I replaced the whole shebang. Although, its not stock. Ill be building my own tail gate...
Mine is a wheeler, and not a show piece.
The whole tail gate area was eaten away. so I replaced the whole shebang. Although, its not stock. Ill be building my own tail gate...
Mine is a wheeler, and not a show piece.
Those pics bring back bad memories.
How come?
The nasty rust!?
There was a friggin PEPSI can used as backing in one of the rust holes and literally 1/2 in thick of bondo.
I rebuilt the whole cargo area. Floor, fender wells rear quarters in addition to the sill/ tail gate.
I knew what I was getting into. I got the rig for 1700.00. Price was the big thing for me for what I was gonna build it into.
Its been a great experience, but a LOT OF FAWKING WORK!
- Thread starter
- #57
Mode than I started with
The rust doesn't look that bad.
Some PO put fiberglass over my tub floor. It folded up like paper when I threw it out. There was NOTHING salvageable in the rear tub (other than the top rail).
Good thread
The rust doesn't look that bad.
Some PO put fiberglass over my tub floor. It folded up like paper when I threw it out. There was NOTHING salvageable in the rear tub (other than the top rail).
Good thread
twoturtlesracing
Slowwly but surely...
Awesome thread!
HAHA!
YEAH!
Fortunately enough I have the ability to do the work myself. The whole repair only cost around a hundred bucks (or a little more).
I just cant imagine having to take your rig in to have DONE and the expense THAT would cost to have someone else do it. Welding is SOOOOO easy to learn and yet so many people on here seem to think there is some mystery to it and avoid it like the plague. That is the ONLY way I can afford to partake in this WONDERFUL hobby. I have more time than I do money...that is a fact.
Here is how it ended up for those interested.
