It sounded like a turbo spooling up. It generally fails after the car has been sitting for a while. I first noticed it after leaving my car at LAX for 4 days.
06/07 Air Induction Pump Failure & Bypass (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter TexasCrane
- Start date
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After doing some research regarding the bypass module, it seems that some users are reporting a P011B error code in warm weather resulting in a CEL. This appears to be mostly on 5.7 motors and using the current eBay seller's plug and play module.
I found out about this after ordering the module. While I don't have any issue with my Air Injection Pump at this time, I wanted to be prepared should the situation arise. Do you presently have any issues with your bypass?
I found out about this after ordering the module. While I don't have any issue with my Air Injection Pump at this time, I wanted to be prepared should the situation arise. Do you presently have any issues with your bypass?
- Thread starter
- #44
No issues so far. And mine was installed in Texas in august, so its been used in some pretty hot weather.
I did have a problem with the valve reactivating this weekend, but I'm pretty sure it's because I left the ignition in the ON position too long when I had to make a late night bathroom run while camping. Did the battery reset yesterday and the problem seems to have resolved. So far and one month later and 1000 miles the module is still functioning well.
What set up are you using diy or plug and play?
Plug and play
I put the AIP bypass on today on my '06 LC. I purchased the plug and play version so it obviously plugged right in. I was having a valve stuck code so installed the block-off plates. That was actually much easier than I anticipated. I also connected the starter relay wire and the most time I spent on the project was getting that routed nicely. Quick tip for pulling that starter relay. I used a couple of those paint can lid openers they give you with a can of paint. They have a nice hook on them so you can grab the undersides of the relay base. Popped right out. I read about the other diy solutions but didn't want to mess with that. I highly recommend this module.
If you used the plug and play why the need to connect a wire to the starter relay?
The bypass module plugs into the air temp / mass air flow sensor. On the non plug and play version you would splice into some wires there. Quoting from the instructions:
The bypass module is triggered whenever the vehicle ignition is first switched to the "ON" position and whenever it senses a 5-12V signal on its starter relay input wire (energized when the starter is engaged). The starter relay wire eliminates the need to crank the engine within 3-5 seconds of turning the ignition "On".
That starter relay wire connection is optional and not a big deal if the engine is usually cranked as soon as the ignition is turned on. I know I frequently don't do this for various reasons so I went ahead and hooked it up. It simply runs to the starter relay in the fuse box.Nice Write Up! Good To Know, Thanks!!
I just ordered mine, after 9 weeks of enjoying my Lx470 it dropped error codes P1441 and P1444 on my lap. Dealer wants $2.7k to fix it, I'm thinking this will be worth every penny of the $200 (I paid for expedited shipping). I hope the install is as easy as everyone says
Vasopressor
SILVER Star
I bought a 2006 LX470 with 117k last week and have heard the vacuum/spool noise on start up twice now. No CEL or codes yet. No limp mode. I just purchased the kit from ebay and will install it as soon as I get it in the mail. Thanks Texascrane and all of you for this thread. You saved me a lot of headaches and a ton of money.
Did everyone install the block off plates with their kit? Do you have to jack the truck, remove the wheel, take off the fender tabs? Or can you access it from the engine bay?
Did everyone install the block off plates with their kit? Do you have to jack the truck, remove the wheel, take off the fender tabs? Or can you access it from the engine bay?
I put the block off plates on my '06 LC. It was no problem. I spent a lot more time coming up with a strategy to get to them them than actually putting them in. It looks more challenging than it turned out to be.
- I used both a 1/4" 10mm deep socket and a 10mm combination wrench.
- I did not have to jack up the truck
- Took the skid plates off
- The passenger side nuts were accessible from the top and bottom.
- On the driver side I removed 5 tabs and one nut from the wheel well to fold the rubber fender apron back. The back of the 5 tabs are exposed from the engine bay so very easy to push the pin and pop out without a removal tool.
- Turned the wheel to the right and was able to get to the nuts from the wheel well and bottom.
- I have a Texas truck with zero rust so once I got to the nuts they came loose surprisingly easy. If that's not the case with yours you might want to hit them with a little PB.
Thanks for this great write up.
I have a few of questions.
Thanks to anyone who can answer!
I have a few of questions.
- Will a mechanic doing a smog check inspection be able to notice the bypass module and block off plates have been installed?
- Can I wait to install the bypass module until the AIP fails?
- If the system fails on a trail in the back country, can I install the bypass module on the trail and do the block off plates when I got back home?
Thanks to anyone who can answer!
Hi, sorry to bring up an old thread, but i just purchased a '06 LX. Is this bypass a mandatory must do mod? Is it reliable long term as I plan to keep my LX for a long time? Is the one on eBay sold by "tmr185" the correct one and are installing the plates a must? Thanks so much for your help.
I don't think I'd consider the bypass mandatory if you aren't having an issue. I have a Tundra with the same 4.7 2UZ-FE and I'm not going to mess with it until I have a problem. I just know that if/when that day comes it's an easy fix.
I purchased the one from hewitt-tech. I wanted the starter relay connection wire.
I think if you are going to install the module you might as well put in the block-off plates. It's easy enough and isolates the system completely.
I purchased the one from hewitt-tech. I wanted the starter relay connection wire.
I think if you are going to install the module you might as well put in the block-off plates. It's easy enough and isolates the system completely.
- Thread starter
- #58
Thanks for this great write up.
I have a few of questions.
- Will a mechanic doing a smog check inspection be able to notice the bypass module and block off plates have been installed?
- Can I wait to install the bypass module until the AIP fails?
- If the system fails on a trail in the back country, can I install the bypass module on the trail and do the block off plates when I got back home?
Thanks to anyone who can answer!
I can't imagine a mechanic noticing either the module or block off plates. They would have to be very familiar with a 100 series and specifically looking for it. Let me put it this way, when I had my truck at Slee, admittedly they weren't looking for it, but they didn't notice it until I pointed it out to them. If you have other stuff going on in the engine bay like a dual battery, compressor, and/or fusebox, it would be virtually impossible to see it.
Yes, you can install the bypass after a failure (that's what most end up doing by default) and yes, you can install the module on the trail and wait until you're home to do the block off plates. That said, if the valves failed and stuck open rather than closed, it's possible that hot exhaust gasses could get through and potentially damage something else if the block off plates aren't installed. Personally, I wouldn't worry about it.
Thanks for you reply. I will probably just wait until it happens. In the mean time, I will purchase the module and have it on standby just in case.
We had an 06 that failed at 85k...fixed the problem the correct way $$$$.
I just purchased the plug and play kit for my remaining 100. $180 is chump change for guaranteed reliability.
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