Solid-state Replacement for Mech. Voltage regulator (1 Viewer)

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bsevans

bsevans

Focus on the Journey
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Jun 9, 2005
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Ever burned up an alternator diode or had a weak electrical system due to the voltage regulator or maybe even had your vehicle parked while you went hiking or to work only to come back and have a dead battery because the contacts on the regulator had welded together and drained your battery. We'll I've experienced them all. If you are still using the factory alternator you might want to get one of these. I got it at the alternator/starter motor rebuild shop. My alternator had a burned out diode and they wanted to check my voltage regulator. I took both that I owned and they were both bad. I ran this one for a number of years without incident and no ammeter gauge bounce until I stepped up to a 200 amp alternator with internal voltage regulator.
TRANSPO
IN569
12V-227
Voltage Regulator 06.jpg
Voltage Regulator 08.jpg
Voltage Regulator 05.jpg
 
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Conversely, I had a vehicle (a Ford) that would burn out a transister regulator within a few hours. But the old mechanical style would last for a couple of years. Never did find out why.
 
Brian in Oregon said:
Conversely, I had a vehicle (a Ford) that would burn out a transister regulator within a few hours. But the old mechanical style would last for a couple of years. Never did find out why.
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I hear you. This unit ran flawlessly for the 2-3 years I used it until installing the 200amp alternator. There is something to be said for not having that arcing mechanical contact. However, if it is the cause of problems in the field, a solid-state unit is not repairable but you can take your Swiss army knife and file the contacts, readjust the gap and probably have enough to make it home. Even though I'm a mechanical engineer, I'll take that solid-state device thank you.
 
Does that solid state VR plug into the factory harness?

Over on Pirate someone posted that they found a solid state VR at NAPA that fit FJs. I think it plugged into the factory harness.
 
4x4Poet said:
Does that solid state VR plug into the factory harness?

Over on Pirate someone posted that they found a solid state VR at NAPA that fit FJs. I think it plugged into the factory harness.
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That connector you see in the photo is identical to the one on the mechanical voltage regulator as far as interface to the harness is concerned. The only thing different is that some of the mechanical voltage regulators I've gone through had a clear plastic sleeve around the connector to enhance the water resistance.
 
4x4Poet said:
Over on Pirate someone posted that they found a solid state VR at NAPA that fit FJs. I think it plugged into the factory harness.
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IIRC, it was Texican who posted about a generic Dodge SS regulator at NAPA for $15 or something like that. I imagine that you would have to swap connectors.
 
Pin_Head said:
IIRC, it was Texican who posted about a generic Dodge SS regulator at NAPA for $15 or something like that. I imagine that you would have to swap connectors.
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That's what I used and yes you do have to change out some connectors. It did not make any difference in my needle-bounce, so maybe it is not the same as BSevans used:confused:

Ed
 
Degnol said:
That's what I used and yes you do have to change out some connectors. It did not make any difference in my needle-bounce, so maybe it is not the same as BSevans used:confused:

Ed
Click to expand...

Maybe the regulator is not the reason for your amp needle flickering. It could also be intermittent flickering of something sinking current, or intermittent contact of the alternator field brushes.
 
Pin_Head said:
Maybe the regulator is not the reason for your amp needle flickering. It could also be intermittent flickering of something sinking current, or intermittent contact of the alternator field brushes.
Click to expand...

I did have it tested at an auto electric shop, but that may be something that would not show up? Anyway, I am getting ready to swap in a newer, tested unit. Hope that makes a difference. At idle it does not flicker until I turn on anything, blinker, lights, horn, etc. Even with the "steady" pull of the headlights, the thing bounces and bangs both stops.

Ed
 
Degnol, please post the results of the swap. I have the same problem on my '72. There is slight flutter of amp needle at idle, but turning on lights causes it to go crazy. Changed out regulator with the NAPA part---store here sure hadnt heard it was only $15 part though, over $40!
 
It could also be a wonky ground connection between the alternator and regulator. My amp meter keeps time to my blinkers, but it hardly moves far. If your is banging on both of the bump stops you really have something there.
 
I ran the chrysler solid state regulator that is in the tech links for about a year.

Alternator went out and took the reg with it. Put in another mechanical VR and didn't notice much difference between the solid state and a new mechanical.
 
This VR was purchased 2-3 years ago at the alternator shop for under $15. I do not know how many different harness connector styles Toyota used over the life span of the FJ. This VR has the same bolt pattern and the same harness connector. It is the same shop I went to recently when I decided it was time to switch to a gear reduction starter. The rebuilt GR starter was under $90 with a core exchange that I had picked up for cheap. This GR starter was rebuilt by the same house that MAF sells for $125. I think it pays to look at local shops for the support you need. I find that on average, the local shops are more than competitive with nationwide parts stores. When I had the factory alternator go out, the local alternator shop rebuilt it replacing bearings and diodes etc, and supplying the solid-state VR for less than a rebuilt alternator was at the AutoZone, PEP Boys and of course MAF & SOR.
 
I just got off the phone with two alternator shops here in Tucson. They both have solid state voltage regulators on the shelf that are plug compatible. They show two Transpo VR that are interchangeable - IN551 and IN569. The cost is $22. They also said that they can special order SS VR for LandCruisers back to the late 60s. So my question is, why would you not buy one that is plug compatible with a cruiser as opposed to buying one meant for another vehicle and change out the connectors with questionable results?
 
PabloCruise said:
I did not know they were plug n play!

Even better!

I just ASSumed that you had to splice your connector on - thanks...

What year Cruiser was your application?
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Did you not look at the photos in post #1?
I just ASSumed you could read my signature; 8/78
 
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