Solid-state Replacement for Mech. Voltage regulator (1 Viewer)

[FJ40Jim]

Dunno if it is mentioned in this thread, but the 79-87 2F alternator is a solid state internal regulator model that drops in the standard 2F mounting bracket.
Also makes a few more amps than standard 75-78 alt.

And the whole thing is less than $50 from Rockauto.

 

[gwalt584]

You just ordered and haven't received it yet, correct? Oddly enough, I ordered one several months back and received the standard points-type regulator. Since it's going on a truck that I'm going to sell, I didn't raise a stink about it, but I was disappointed none the less.

The W095-10 that I purchased from them for my '78 several years ago is solid-state and works like a charm.

You may want to verify that they are sending you the electronic regulator, if that's what you're after.

Well, we talked about it being SS. He even commented that he did not think a points type was available any longer. That is all that my local NAPA store sells is the points type. I will call back and verify.
Thanks
Gary

 

[gwalt584]

Dunno if it is mentioned in this thread, but the 79-87 2F alternator is a solid state internal regulator model that drops in the standard 2F mounting bracket.
Also makes a few more amps than standard 75-78 alt.

And the whole thing is less than $50 from Rockauto.

Good to know, I purchased a Bosch Alternator when I did the rebuild in 2010.
So, what is done to the external VR, unplug and connect which wires?
Thanks
Gary

 

[FJ40Jim]

Good to know, I purchased a Bosch Alternator when I did the rebuild in 2010.
So, what is done to the external VR, unplug and connect which wires?
Thanks
Gary

Discard the VR.
In the 3 pin plug at the VR, connect together the BY (Ign+) and WG(field) wires.
Connect the WG wire to the IGN spade on the back of the SS alternator.
Now when the key is switched on, +12V ign power will go from the BY to the WG wire to the IGN terminal on the alternator, which tells the alt that it is time to charge.

 

[SouthBostonFJ40]

Discard the VR.
In the 3 pin plug at the VR, connect together the BY (Ign+) and WG(field) wires.
Connect the WG wire to the IGN spade on the back of the SS alternator.
Now when the key is switched on, +12V ign power will go from the BY to the WG wire to the IGN terminal on the alternator, which tells the alt that it is time to charge.

Does any off this affect the ammeter?

 

[FJ40Jim]

No, the ammeter remains in the charge circuit as before.

It just won't bounce around at low RPM's anymore.

 

[Weber Sarge]

I'm considering using a much newer alt off a pickup since I need in excess of 100 amps , anyone know off the top of their head what the foot pattern is on the 40's mount ? Also need to figure out the spacing offset to the pulley centerline and whether or not a machined spacer could be made to fit the stock v pulley onto the newer style alt .
Sarge

 

[SouthBostonFJ40]

No, the ammeter remains in the charge circuit as before.

It just won't bounce around at low RPM's anymore.

Why doesn't it burn out due to the higher amperage?

 

[Pin_Head]

Why doesn't it burn out due to the higher amperage?

Just guessing here but:
1. It probably never sees the full 100A because the battery never gets that discharged.
2. It can probably handle the full 100A for the time it takes to charge the battery enough to drop the charge current back to the normal range.
3. The chassis never uses that much current when the alternator isn't running.

 

[SouthBostonFJ40]

I thought the 30 amp ammeters were rated for just over 30 amps?

 

[PabloCruise]

Discard the VR.
In the 3 pin plug at the VR, connect together the BY (Ign+) and WG(field) wires.
Connect the WG wire to the IGN spade on the back of the SS alternator.
Now when the key is switched on, +12V ign power will go from the BY to the WG wire to the IGN terminal on the alternator, which tells the alt that it is time to charge.

Jim's gold - thanks man!

 

[gwalt584]

Results

I just wanted to report on the Wagner SS for my 1975 FJ40. I recieved the unit on Wednesday and installed in Thursday night. My battery was fully charged (via external charger). With the original point type VR it would charge close to 30 amps for a few seconds after cranking, then drop to around 5 to 10 amps and bounce from 0 to 20 amps and never settle down.
With the new SS VR it is much more steady without the bounce. So I would say mission accomplished.
Gary

 

[Spike Strip]

FWIW, Standard Motor Products now sells a SS regulator replacement (72-76?) as the VR470. About $25. There may be some old stock with the same part # around that is the old mechanical type. FAIK, this could just be a re-badged Wagner.

 

[spotcruiser]

Looks like the Wagner SS regulator that I have on my '78,

FWIW, Standard Motor Products now sells a SS regulator replacement (72-76?) as the VR470. About $25. There may be some old stock with the same part # around that is the old mechanical type. FAIK, this could just be a re-badged Wagner.

 

[AlaskanWheeler]

So I've looked up the part # for the internally regualted alternator 27020-61071? And if you search that part # on mud, most reference having to reinstall a voltage regulator. Am I missing something here, maybe I have the wrong part #?

 

[FJ40Jim]

When the reman alt is purchased from TMNA, it does not come w/ a VR. They expect the installer to move the VR from old alt to the new alt.

Every aftermarket reman I've bought came as a complete assembly w/ VR, fan, pulley, ready to install. Mind you, they have the wrong pulley installed 50% of the time, so it is necessary to re-use the original pulley.

 

[algeeba]

So, I purchased a supposedly new Transpo IN569 for my '78 a few months ago, plugged it in, ran it for a week to see if was working "correctly", then removed it to carry as a spare.

Last weekend I installed it once again, thinking I would carry my mechanical regulator as a spare instead, and, as I was doing other things on my 40, I noticed the amp gauge slightly to the negative side. I checked for parasitic draw at the battery and I was getting a draw of 1.9 volts.

Plugged the mechanical regulator back in and no parasitic draw. Is my solid state regulator definitely bad and is there an easy/worthwhile way to fix them?

Thanks in advance for any advice.

 

[Coolerman]

You meant to say a draw of 1.9 AMPS?

No way to fix the SS regulator, if it is bad. Since the regulator only has power when the key is ON, and you are seeing a draw with the key off, that leaves two things that could be wrong: a shorted diode in the alternator, or the fault lies elsewhere. Check the charging voltage with both the SS and the mechanical and make sure it's in the range of 13.7 to 14.2 while running. If both are correct then the fault is in another circuit.

 

[algeeba]

Sorry, yes 1.9 amps. Good eye

I will try to check for bad diodes on the alternator this evening and check the SS for its output. I do know the mechanical regulator is outputting correctly plus I did adjust it to output 14.3.

So, because the mechanical regulator has contacts it won't show the same symptoms, if the alternator has a bad diode, or would it?