FJ40 Disc brake conversion?

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Otterav

Otterav

Joined
May 26, 2005
Threads
88
Messages
720
Location
Boulder Creek, CA
Hey,
I got the FJ60 front end out of the truck, cleaned, up and started disassembling the tie-rods.
My questions are numerous and varied:
I was looking at the 60 tierods and comparing to the 40 stockers.
The 60's are much stouter and look like they might be the ticket. I am thinking of using them instead of the stockers. I measured the 60's and they need to be shortened about 2", more or less. (I am totally capable of welding to professional standards, so this is not an issue) I will machine a plug to rejoin the cut ends, drill some holes for some rosette welds and turn a sleeve to weld on the outside diameter of the tube, with fishmouthing for strength. I was then going to ream the 40 steering arm to fit the 60 tierod end. This would allow for bigger tierods and ends.
Does anyone have any insight to anything that I might have not thought of?
Eric:banana:
 
Do it.


Good luck!


-Steve
 
I have heard some states' safety inspections frown on anything welded in the steering system. It sounds like to got it covered but you might want to make it inconspicuous as well. Just a thought.
 
Hey,
We don't have safety inspections in CA. I could weld the tube back together and metal finish the tube so as to be almost invisible. I think that I may go this direction, since the tube/tierod ends can't be that strong anyway. I am still trying to get as many angles covered as possible before I start, keep the ideas/angles coming. I will post pics once I start the modding.
eric
 
What is your intended use for this vehicle?


Rocks?


Road?


Trails?


Spring Over lift?


?????
 
Am I missing something? If you have a 40 and you have a 60 axle for parts can't you just take the 60 knuckles, brakes, and steering arms and put them on your 40 axle? The 60 steering arms are quite a bit beefier than the 40's. No reaming required.
 
Bret said:
Am I missing something? If you have a 40 and you have a 60 axle for parts can't you just take the 60 knuckles, brakes, and steering arms and put them on your 40 axle? The 60 steering arms are quite a bit beefier than the 40's. No reaming required.
Click to expand...

The 60 tierods are about 2" longer and need to be sized to because the 60 axle is wider than the 40. The reaming would be to fit the 60 tierod end to the 40 steering box/arm.
eric:idea:
 
Poser,
Truck will be 60% street, 40% dirt/trails, nothing extreme, just cruisin'. I have been disassembling the knuckles and familiarizing myself with the components. While running back and forth measuring and comparing, I noticed that the component sizes are linear. The tierod for the 40 is larger than the steering link. The same is true for the 60 stuff. I found the 40 TRE for the right side(the one that accepts the steering link), threads into the steering link on the 60 stuff. So here is how it fits together:
L/R tierod from the 60 will link the knuckles(shortened 2"aprox.)
Steering link using the 60 tierod at the right knuckle combined with the tierod end from the 40 right hand side, to link to the center steering arm., no reaming required since the 40 uses the same size tapers. This will allow the stock 60 steering damper to be used in almost the same position and mounting as the original 60 application. I will post a picture of the assembly once I finalize the lengths.
eric:bounce:
 
Short of buying a new custom tie rod from someone like Marlin Crawler or other suitable vendor, cutting one end and retapping is probably a superior method of solving this problem versus cutting and rewelding in the center.

Where does one buy these taps and approx. how much do they cost? How difficult is it to thread? how do you hold the tie rods from spinning as you cut the new threads? Use a lathe/vise?
 
Can you spoonfeed me a little more? I have no idea what tap(s) you would need. Any idea? Thanks in advance.
 
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