'99 LC, brakes pulsate around 40K miles? (1 Viewer)

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mabrodis

mabrodis

Joined
Mar 22, 2004
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Castle Rock, CO
First off this isn't my vehicle, it's my sister's, she and her (now ex) husband both had '99 Land Cruisers.

First one they got at about 50K miles brakes started to pulsate, took it to the dealer, paid $900...(makes me sick), new front rotors, pads ofcourse, etc...

Now on thier other '99 it has 44K miles and the brakes are started to pulsate. Nothing has ever been done to these vehicle (i.e. no brake fluid flush or anything). I am flying out to do all this work for her since it's cheaper for me to fly there and do the work and do it right than to have her take it somewhere...and she's very bright, once I show her the brake stuff, she'll never take it anywhere again.

But my question is, on a never before turned rotor, such as on her '99 now, can I just have the rotor turned to get rid of the pulsate (there should be enough thickness to turn it atleast once right?) ? I am debating turning or just buying new rotors and having them shipped to her. Also to compliate this I'm going on a weekend to her place, so it might not be easy to find a shop to turn them...

I do not have a factory manual for her '99 but I have a online subscription with exploded diagrams and such. However I can't tell exactly what I have to do to pull the rotors off, do I have to pull the front hubs off (remove wheel bearings, etc?) I don't think so but the diagram I saw is useless as to what goes where. Any advice?

I'm also going to do a full brake system flush, and 18 million other things while I'm there (all synthetic gearlube, grease everything, coolant flush, etc)...

I'm curious though is this pulsating normal for these vehicles? Well not 'normal' I'm sure, but common with systems left for years with no upkeep? She's had it happen on both vehicles with darn close to the same mileage...maybe just the way she drives.. :)

Thanks in advance,
Mark Brodis
 
well, when I was looking for our 100, I ran into at least 2 or 3 out of 6 or 7 I test drove with pulsing brakes/steering wheel, also around the 40-50K. In one case, I had them measured and they were way out of plane.

Not that surprising, considering I just checked the wheel nults on the 03 after the dealer rotated the tires, and the difference in torque across the nuts was amazing. Must have used a ratty ole' air wrench or something...

That plus the weight, I guess it's probably pretty common.

E
 
Rear one are easy. You might need to loosen the parking brake adjuster and use 2 8MM bolt to pull it off. The front are different story. You need to pull the Hub and if replacing the rotor it might be easier to get new bearing race also.

Many people said it would not last long if turned but its wort a try. Most brake shop have the equipment to turn it on vehicle which makes it a lot easier and cheaper since you does not have to touch the bearing. Call them if they are willing to turn it on vehicle without doing any aditional work. If you going to take it off call around first. The center bore on the rotor are quite big and not all shop have adapter for it.

I highly recommend Axxis Metal master replacement pads since I believe they would reduce heat build due to shorter braking period.
 
I had never heard of turning the rotors while on the vehicle, that's clever. I would think that turning would be good but it seems like on a rotor which already pulsates, it would be very hard to have a mobile turning unit turn the rotor on the vehicle and get all that. I guess if it could be mounted very securely to something but seems like that would be a challenge.

Thanks...
Mark Brodis
 
I probably wouldn't bother turning the rotors. Being thinner, the rotors won't be able to dissipate the heat as easily, causing them to warp soon thereafter. I'd use this opportunity to upgrade the rotors to something like the DBA slotted or slotted brembo's.
 
Find out WHY the brakes are pulsing and/or the rotors have uneven depositions (what's usually callled "warped").
My 99 had a sticky rear caliper that the Toy mechanics missed for the PO. When he traded up to a LX 470, and I bought it from the Lexus dealership, the Lexus mechanics found the bad caliper right away - covered under extended warranty.
There's plenty of iron in those 100 series rotors - you should be able to have then turned several times before you have to worry about thickness. And if you're going to change brake pad material, always have the rotors turned to remove the former pad deposits and break in your new pads and clear rotors.
For more on brake judder and proper break-in procedure, see this website:
http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/warped_rotors_myth.htm

LT
 
Went through the same thing with my '00 around 40k.

Front rotors can be turned, even though its IFS, you still end up with a rotor/hub/inner-outer bearing races when you pull it, so any shop can turn them (should be a thickness spec in the manual). Rears were a little funky because of the integral parking brake drum, my shop said they couldn't do it, and wouldn't let me at the lathe (they should be able to do it) so I bought new ones (NAPA) for a not so bad price. Only thing I had trouble sourcing local was the front wheel seals :mad: but if you order stuff in advance you're set.

For a daily driver, I would buy only Toyota pads, and replace the anti squeal shims and grease sold separately (cost as much as the pads) or you may be flying back in 10k miles. Moms are much less tolerant of squeals and noise. :beer:

Better read up on the ABS/Traction Control if you're going to open the hydraulics.
 
Cool, thanks for all the insight...I think I'm going with new rotors, around $75 each isn't bad, and if I turn the ones on there it's much more driving, finding a place to do it, picking up, etc...and it alone is not free. With new ones I can just sit my fat arse there and finish the whole thing in one shebang.

Curious why you are so set on Toyota pads? I have put only Autozone pads no my '97 and they have been great, and I've gone through 3 sets, all free life-time warrenty replacements, so my brakes cost me $20 about 3 years ago, and will give me pads for as long as I own the vehicle. Now that ofcourse doesn't address stopping concerns, but these pads have been atleast as good as the factory ones on mine, if not stopping better. Just my opinion...

I will put the anti squeal stuff on the backs...not sure if I'll bother with the shims or not..

About opening the hydraulics, I'm not worried to just bleed them, no different than my '97 as far as no traction control, etc...if you really want to bleed the brakes then you have to actuate the ABS pump, but I don't know any normal person who does that. I have thought about it though, if I could have the caliper on the rotor but not on the vehicle, so I could manually spin the axle, apply the brake, the computer would still see the axle spinning, and pulsate the brake, having the caliper on the rotor would keep the pistons from coming out...maybe I'll try that.

Thanks,
Mark Brodis
 
I just know what didn't work for me. NAPA Gold? or Bendix pads with the red anti-squeal goo resulted in nasty looking wheels and a noisy brakes. After several cleanings and two pad changes I said screw it and went by the book (shim change required) with OEM pads. Toyota pads / shims / grease are quiet and relatively clean (the soccer mom does not want to be noticed because of brake dust and noise). As a daily driver I'd expect OEM to last at least as long as the original set. Just my opinion, and wishful thinking.

I used to use inexpensive Autozone pads on my 80 and was perfectly happy. :D
 
Hi Mabrodis, I was reading about your rotor situation and was wondering if you could help me out with some information.

I just bought a used 2000 Landcruiser with the pulsating brake problem and a Toyota mechanic just told me that new OEM rotors cost $300 each, plus installation.

I was wondering were you got your $75 price for new rotors from?

Thank you.
 
You might be interested in these....

DBA Rotors
 
My rotors have been turned twice now (both front and back) and with no problems. I'm at 80K so I plan on needing rotors next time out (though I've never had pulsing). With my success I'm staying stock. As for pulling rotors off the 100, my mechanic (non-Toyota Dealer) said they came off very similar to my 80. He had no problems whatsoever each time and charged me $40 front and $25 rear for labor and $12 a set for turning.
 
A few questions... I am planning on replacing the rear rotors and install new brakes pads. I've replaced brake pads before on the front but I've never replaced rotors. I've watched this video:

How long should the 8mm bolts be that are used to remove the rotor? Is it necessary to disassemble the caliper? Okay to use a c-clamp to compress the piston before reinstalling the pads?

The truck is a 2005 LX470 and I'm just about 200 miles shy of cresting the 200K mileage mark. The rotors, as far as I can tell, are original and have been turned before. The rear brakes are pulsating quite bad hence my decision to replace the rotors.

TIA for any guidance. I've changed oil, swapped AHC fluid, and replaced the heater T's so I'm thinking based on the video this is something I can handle in my driveway.
 
You may or may not even need those 8mm x 1.25 bolts. We use them if rotor/drum stuck on hub. 2" length or more will do. Just make sure to release E-brake handle and loosen the E-brake adjuster just like in video. Work on one side at a time.
Rear pad install.JPG

I don't know if this really matters, but I start the job by depressing brake pedal 40 times with key off to evacuates accumulator.

At 200K miles I recommend new slide pins and boots, you see him wipe off and grease. Here you see just lower "Pin, cylinder Slide" they have rubber bushings. I don't recall which year these went to, check you PN # for your year.
Caliper parts rear.JPG



Also get new retaining clips. Take pictures of how they are oriented, but warning yours may be on wrong.
010a.jpg

Keep pads and rotor clean. Look through my links and you'll see some I've done.

If you use new OEM pads you'll likely need new anti squeal shims. We've debated squeal shim and pad wear indicator placement. Whether back side or toward outside of vehicle. Here's a picture from @abuck99 which is how I find factory install. I've just done a set with indicator and it's notch squeal shim on outside. If using aftermarket pads like Akebone ProAct have their own squeal shim attached, so this orientation issue doesn't come up.
Inner shim & wear indicator.jpg
Outer shim.jpg


Make sure to use ceramic disk pads.

Seat or bed the new pads and rotors on first use.
 
Have fun and take your time. Keep pad & rotors clean using a degrease like brake cleaner. Read though some of my links in signture you'll find more info.


001.JPG
002.JPG

003.JPG
004.JPG
 
Sounds like guide pins to me... replace the caliper assembly and that should solve the problem. Replacing the guide pins will help but will not totally eliminate the issue. Seems that the pins and the caliper like to wear each other and the holes open.

Also, rotors don't really warp... there is a lot of discussion on this online and a it's more of a myth than anything. Personally, i don't believe in turning rotors.
Warped' Rotors Myth - Correctly Service Brakes: Runout, Disc Thickness
 
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