99 LX rear brakes sticking

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My rear calipers stuck and ate my whole pad. Gouged both rotors. I replaced the rotors and pads and bought the parts to rebuild. I also replaced the slide pins that were sticking and a little corroded. OEM parts.

I lubed the slide pins well, put new seals in. The piston didn't look corroded so I didn't replace it.

While driving with my window down I could hear a slight squealing sound so I felt the rear wheels when I got home and they were pretty warm. I spit in the rear rotors and both were sizzling hot.

Should I just replace the caliper? What could I have messed up in the rebuild?
 
So there is very little drag with the wheels off the ground. Seems like the normal amount of very slight drag, wheel spins easily. When I pull the parking brake it grabs, then when I release it it spins freely again. Pads still look new.

Like I said before I can hear a slight metal speaking driving at slow speeds from the rear, and the rear wheel is warm to the touch after a long drive, rotors are hot
 
If these are true then I don't understand why you thought rear brake are stinking.

The whole rear wheel was hot after driving about 20 miles. I hadn't driven much after putting brand new pads on so maybe they wore in a little and now aren't making as much contact? Last night the wheel was still warm after a ride but not as bad
 
The whole rear wheel was hot after driving about 20 miles. I hadn't driven much after putting brand new pads on so maybe they wore in a little and now aren't making as much contact? Last night the wheel was still warm after a ride but not as bad
You can't have both normal and sticking at the same time. Have you compared the drag and heat to the front wheel? How many clicks do you get when you pull the parking brake handle to the max?
 
Is the parking brake adjusted properly or partially engaged?

I need to jack the rear tire up and check.
E-brake star is adjusted by. Tighten through hole in rotor drum hub. Until rotor will not turn, back off 8 clicks. There are other adjustment, to stop and cable, but not likely these needed.
So there is very little drag with the wheels off the ground. Seems like the normal amount of very slight drag, wheel spins easily. When I pull the parking brake it grabs, then when I release it it spins freely again. Pads still look new.

Like I said before I can hear a slight metal speaking driving at slow speeds from the rear, and the rear wheel is warm to the touch after a long drive, rotors are hot

When you say ate your whole pad, you mean both or just one? If only one, then you've got a caliper that's stuck and dragging.
Very good question^^^

My rear calipers stuck and ate my whole pad. Gouged both rotors. I replaced the rotors and pads and bought the parts to rebuild. I also replaced the slide pins that were sticking and a little corroded. OEM parts.

I lubed the slide pins well, put new seals in. The piston didn't look corroded so I didn't replace it.

While driving with my window down I could hear a slight squealing sound so I felt the rear wheels when I got home and they were pretty warm. I spit in the rear rotors and both were sizzling hot.

Should I just replace the caliper? What could I have messed up in the rebuild?
Did you deglaze/rust wheel hub and runout wheel hub and then rotor, to best runout position of the 5.
Did you replaced wear indicators, properly placing on pad.
Did you replace fitting kit and install properly.
Did you bed in pads.

Note: We only add a thin layer of grease (Toy rubber grease) on to pins & boots. To much grease they pushout (hydrolock). I also like to rubber a little grease, in/on wall of pin hole in mounting plate.
 
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