FAQ addition: Dual Battery Set-Ups (1 Viewer)

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reffug

reffug

Joined
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FAQ addition: Dual Battery Set-Ups

Ok were gonna stick this for a week and then proceed to clean it up a little if necessary and put it in the FAQ as previously mentioned.

So without further ado.....

>Post up You Dual Battery Solutions/Set-Ups

>Parts where you got them

>How you went about installing the system (step by step if possible)

>Anything else someone would need to know to repeat the process

>Pictures are a MUST!!!


Please keep the chat to a minimum and only relating to someones clarification if necessary in regards to a solution involving there system.

Thank you,

Management (reffug & Romer)
 
IPOR(ironpigoffroad.com) Dual Battery System.

- Washer Relocator Bracket.
- Surepower battery seperator.
- O.E. 2nd battery tray
- All necc. 2ga and 14ga. wire
- Mil-spec terminals
- Battery hold down bracket with different j-hooks for optima

All parts included in one kit, pre terminated, crimped, and heat shrunk.

Straight forward installation: Connecting both batteries, ground new battery at vehicle body and frame. Tap into 12V signal from the cruise control under dash for SurePower battery seperator.

Kit also includes extra 14ga. wire for dash mounted LED to show when self-jump is activated.

No 4-way marine switch neccesary b/c seperator has ECU to control the batteries although a switch can easely be added.

Cost- $500 + 2nd battery of choice
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Can we get you folks to give an estimate on the cost of this mod overall? How much cash are we looking at here with the premade kits vs do it yourself??

M
 
Marshall,
We don't like to talk about how much things cost. Ya never know when the CFO might be reading these posts.
-B-
 
Ken & Reffug, it'd be pretty nice (as well as respectful to one of the pioneers) to link up George Scolaro's website detailing his install (http://george4wd.taskled.com/auxbat.html). It has the Toyota parts numbers right off the top for the tray and battery hold down which would allow folks to call Dan up and get the ball rolling quickly. His "do it yourself" management system works great too. This is what I've got and his washer bottle re-locater with the Corolla bottle allows you to have the dual batteries and a s/c or t/c.

This is an exceptionally crummy photo but it shows the relocated washer bottle that George developed.
 
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My dual-batt setup consists of the following (see more details on my ROTW):

Hellroaring Isolator
Optima Blue Top in primary battery position
Slee washer bottle relocation kit
Factory battery tray (for earlier FJ 80) for passenger side
Mean Green "Hi Output" Alternator


I went with the Optima blue top for its deep cycle / starting capabiltiy and for its terminal configuration (top posts and marine accessory posts). The isolator is mounted on an open/flat spot high up on the firewall. The second battery gets very little use (only emergency starting when the primary batt is low) so any standard starting battery will work fine.

The Hellroaring isolator works GREAT. I would do the exact same setup again. The isolator is totally automatic and the LED indicator light gives you instant diagnostics of your charging system at all times. If the light goes out when the motor is running, you are exceeding your alternator output (either due to high load ie winching, lights, etc or an alternator problem) and the isolator has separated the batteries to protect your 2nd battery.

The Mean Green alternator on the other hand is a complete waste of money. It does NOT put out any more current than the factory alternator. That company completely LIES on their spec sheet and should be ashamed of themselves :mad:

Overall, the dual battery system is a must have. With an automatic transmission, if you accidently run the battery down (or have an alternator problem) out in the middle of nowhere, your gonna be walkin'!
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Since mine's a 1992, I had to do things a bit differently....

I used an Optima Blue top marine battery and a simple isolator. Very simple set up, with the accessory battery located in the rear cargo compartment. 4ga. battery cable runs between the isolator in the engine bay and the accessory battery.

Works great!

-H-
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There was an exhaustive discussion of this topic in Outfitting about 6 or 9 months ago. Pages and pages of methods, pictures, philosophy, and some BS.

Search is your pal.

M
 
I fitted my 80 with a ARB dual battery kit. The kit came with a battery tray, solenoid and wiring. The wiring was only about 6mm from memory but was sufficient while the only accessories were the fridge,rock lights and fluros. After I got my winch I upgraded to 32mm wire (2B&S). As my 80 has a 1HZ I don't have to worry about the ECM so the solenoid is fine. The solenoid is fitted with a diode. I asked an autoelec mate and he said this helps prevent surges while the solenoid is switching. The battery is a Trojan deep cycle and have found it to handle dual battery duties admirably. As I have a 35min each way commute to work every day I can run my fridge 24/7 with out having to worry about the batteries.

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4dmalamute's setup from this thread https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=88996

I will copy it here for completeness

4dmalamute said:
Well, I finally finished up the project. It was actually really easy and straight forward. I ordered up the painless battery kit, and the painless auxillary battery terminal kit, along with the battery tray and parts from Cdan (Thanks again for all the parts and info). It is a simple set up and only takes a few hours.....even though I extended it over three days..........little by little then off to work was the reason. Anyway, here are some shots of the set up. Opitma red for main and Optima yellow for second. I sort of ran out of places to mount the switch so I put it next to the fuse box in the dash. It will work fine there. Anyway, here it is. Now time to save for the winch. :)
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Here is a Sure Power Set-up that is posted in the following link:


https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=94148


stlcruiser said:
Greetings:

After extensive reading and searching on what would be the best dual battery system to meet my needs and future needs, I decided to go with the Surepower. This unit is a selenoid based system that automatically isolates the batteries when they are not being charged (engine off). It automatically combines both batteries for charging once the main (starting) battery has recharged to its full capacity (engine on). I have a manual switch to combine both batteries for jump starting a weak main battery or to conect both batteries with the engine off. This is a lighted switch that lets me know if I have it in the manual mode. This switch overrides the automatic functions.

As it was time for a new battery, I choose to get 2 identical Walmart Everstart Maxx's. As my accessory usage is light I felt a deep cycle would not be necessay. Also, the constant charging from the alternator I felt would shorten deep cycle's life. As there is a 3 year replacement warrenty, I felt is was worth a try.

I had to eliminate the silencer and use the Napa hose that was recommened in another thread for us 94' owners. I used Slees washer bottle relocation kit. Second battery tray and hardware from Cdan. Two gauge welding cable (very flexible and high grade). 150 amp fuse and holder from Hellroaring (thanks Beo) to fuse the long run from the main battery to the Surepower unit. All cable was cut to custom length, soldered lugs, heat shrinked, and protected with split loom. The long run between the radiator and condensor was further protected with 1/2" flexible conduit (the 2 gauge fits perfectly inside.) The dash switch was run through the firewall. Military style battery terminals were used. Auxillary battery was grounded to the chassie from an existing threaded nut welded to the frame.

For those of you considering the Surepower, I hope this answers some of your questions. All in all this has been one of the most satisfying mods to date.

Steve
94' 160,000
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There are a lot of good choices for a Dual Battery Systems. I debated between them in this thread

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=93700

I almost went with the painless because I liked the manual configuration. I also wanted to run my accessories of the backup.

I decided on the Hellroaring system from:

http://www.hellroaring.com/

You get the same manual configuration capability with the other systems, PLUS you get the automatic protection capability. I decided to follow the advice of the manufacturer and have all the accessories run off the main. This meant I needed a deep cycle main battery.

So, I am running a Optima Yellow Top for my main battery and an Orbital for my back-up battery.

I used Cruiserdrews technique and installed the unit and the ground fuse on the backside of the battery tray. I do plan on covering the terminals and battery posts better.

I made one modification to the Hellroaring system not posted here. I took out a cover plate for the a dash "Spare Slot" and drilled two holes. I then took apart the remote case that came with the unit (Optional purchase) and installed the switch and led in the cover plate. This integrated the switch and led into the dash, rather than having the remote box attached somewhere.



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