Yet Another SBC TBI into an FJ62... (2 Viewers)

e30fj62 · Jan 25, 2011

Nicee!

wish my swap was like this already :bounce:

cool shifter though, i wanted to use the stock shifter modified somehow but then again... :hmm:

keep up the good work :clap:

just got to ask

hows the power? :steer:

Elbert · Jan 26, 2011

What is your setup for cooling... radiation,fan , fan shroud?

What are your plans for an electric fan?

xxfullsailxx · Apr 7, 2013

Holy Thread Revival Batman!

been on my mind lately that i should try finishing this thread up... not so much because you all need the information, but more so out of my own guilt for leaving it hanging for so long, not that i'm big on completing projects or anything, as you will soon see from unfinished engine swap. but maybe tidying up some details here will help motivate me to tidy up some details on the truck itself! in the last two years we've moved across two states, started a new job and had a kid...hopefully that will suffice for an excuse! so here't goes...

i know elbert will be interested in my cooling set up so i'll start there, sorry for taking so long to answer! there must have been a smudge on the camera lens:

ford contour fans wired in via a dakota digital fan controller:

http://www.dakotadigital.com/index....tegory_id=403/home_id=-1/mode=prod/prd852.htm

picture of wiring: from the controller goes power to the two high-amp relays (one for each fan) mounted on top of the fan assembly:

(twist your head to the left) picture of the fan mounted with some simple 1" angle... it's amazing what a good fit these fans are:

picture of the installed fan with the spaghetti mess of wiring...i've since cleaned up some of the wiring, but i'm looking to install dual batteries at this point, so i will be hopefully cleaning it up more:

xxfullsailxx · Apr 7, 2013

more cooling fan pics:

here is the installed fan with the controller box mounted on the driver side fender well inside a pelican case (top left of picture)...

the controller on the left is for the tachometer interface (changes the 6-cylinder tach to accept 8-cylinder signal) and on the right is the fan controller. it can be set up to run both fans simultaneously or individually. you program the high and low temps that you want each to come on at and indicate the type of gauge/sending unit you're running. it also has a function to control the length of time to keep the fan running after engine shut off.

Elbert · Apr 7, 2013

just a little delay on the cooling answer

See how you like the fans...(I had something similar for a while) but then I'm back to running the GM OEM fan and fan clutch that matches my 99 5.7 vortec.

I had a SPAL fan controller go up in smoke....

You'll need a 100+amp alt.

Elbert · Apr 7, 2013

the controller on the left is for the tachometer interface (changes the 6-cylinder tach to accept 8-cylinder signal) and on the right is the fan controller. it can be set up to run both fans simultaneously or individually. you program the high and low temps that you want each to come on at and indicate the type of gauge/sending unit you're running. it also has a function to control the length of time to keep the fan running after engine shut off.

:cheers:

[/QUOTE]

I like the dakota stuff (at least from what I've read on their web site)...what's your take on the quality?

Does the tach interface feed an aftermarket tach ? How does it connect to the engine on your truck? My vortec has a tack signal coming off the PCM. Are you running the LC tach or aftermarket.

xxfullsailxx · Apr 7, 2013

Elbert said:
Does the tach interface feed an aftermarket tach ? How does it connect to the engine on your truck? My vortec has a tack signal coming off the PCM. Are you running the LC tach or aftermarket.

the tach wire from the dizzy goes to the control unit which converts the signal to interface with the Toyota OEM tachometer... not sure if it's different between the '60 and '62 but my tach shows revs up to 5K RPM... not sure if that's high enough for your Vortec!?

and, i'm sure you remember my alternator troubles... i went through two before i recently upgraded to a 140 Amp power master from summit. still have it wired the same way, but it seems to keep up with the work load better and should suffice once i get the second battery wired in.

i haven't had any problems with the dakota digital stuff. i did end up having to manually set the temperature between the control module and the gauge, my stewart warner gauge/sending unit didn't seem to want to read right on the fan control module. (you can hold down a button on the module and it shows the sending unit temp reading digitally under the hood) their tech support is pretty good too, always helpful.

LCOwner · Apr 23, 2013

Very cool. I'm getting ready to stab my TBI in for the last time too. How hard was the tach interface to hook up?

xxfullsailxx · Apr 23, 2013

LCOwner said:
Very cool. I'm getting ready to stab my TBI in for the last time too. How hard was the tach interface to hook up?

it was easy!... power & ground and then in from the motor and out to the tach... just checked out your threads... sweet rig!

LCOwner · Apr 23, 2013

xxfullsailxx said:
it was easy!... power & ground and then in from the motor and out to the tach... just checked out your threads... sweet rig!

Thanks!

It really is my "work truck" It hauls way more tools and gear for trail work than it should. One of these days I'll build a buggy for play.

JohninFla · May 19, 2013

Awesome build! That engine bay looks so clean!

i am about a year behind you, yanking the engine out of my FJ60 now. I was thinking of the Ranger toeque splitter, but it doesn't seem like you had good luck with AA's trans adapter?

John

xxfullsailxx · May 19, 2013

JohninFla said:
Awesome build! That engine bay looks so clean!

i am about a year behind you, yanking the engine out of my FJ60 now. I was thinking of the Ranger toeque splitter, but it doesn't seem like you had good luck with AA's trans adapter?

John

thanks... it's an on going labor of love i suppose.

whoa, those Ranger Overdrives are pricey! but looks like that solves a couple of issues at once... i'm pretty sure that most who go that route are happy with the results.

my issues with Advanced Adapters stem from a lack of information with the FJ62 swap... i ran in to issues that AA didn't really have technical support for. their products are top notch of course, and i suppose since they're the only ones producing them, they can charge what they want!

good luck with your swap! there's a lot of threads out there on the FJ60... i'm sure you'll find some good resources! :cheers:

e30fj62 · Feb 4, 2014

xxfullsailxx said:
well, with work and the holiday and what not i have not been very good about updating...so here it goes in reverse order:

after adding a direct wire from ignition (run & start) direct to the coil (something i had called painless tech support about and was told i didn't need) AND removing and re installing the injectors on the TBI (i must have put them in screwy when i rebuilt the unit long ago) it started right up!!!

that rumble was music to my ears...

anyways, the wiring has been, as you might guess, the biggest ongoing issue. when i originally called tech support at painless the guy told me that the pink wire coming from the computer & harness was the only wire i needed to hook up to ignition (run and start). after consulting the painless instruction manual and the chilton's wiring diagram for the chevy motor i realized that i needed power direct to the coil in addition to the other pink/black wire going to the ecm.

besides that, the other major issues i ran into were:

1) wiring up the brake switch correctly so that the TCC will function properly...painless has a diagram in the back of their manual which is pretty easy to follow and involves adding in a relay or you can try to adapt a chevy brake switch which i didn't think could work on the toyota pedal assembly:

View attachment 471539

2) the new harness did not come with any park/neutral safety switch wiring or instructions (and neither did the Lokar shift kit) and also did not mention that you need to purchase Painless part # 60122 for about $70 if you want the EGR to function properly and tells the computer when the vehicle is in park or neutral.

currently i am trying to get it back together enough to get it down to the exhaust shop...i put the clutch fan back on it with no shroud to provide some cooling until i get the electric fan mounted and wired...i figure it's cool enough here right now and am hoping i have the temp sensor hooked up correctly to show me if it's getting warm.

xxfullsailxx... where did you endup connecting the pink/black wire to the ecm on the cruiser?

xxfullsailxx · Feb 5, 2014

e30fj62 said:
xxfullsailxx... where did you endup connecting the pink/black wire to the ecm on the cruiser?

assuming you're working with a "painless" wiring harness? i think the wire you're talking about gets hooked up to the ignition blue-black that goes between the fuse panel (labeled "ignition" on my FJ62) and the toyota ECM... the harness end of the pink-black wire is going between the ECS module and the GM ECM i think? i just went out and looked under my dash. i think that circuit is hot with ignition on, but i didn't test it.

there's another pigtail that i believe you have to buy separately that also has a pink-black wire... it's the on of the two wires that go between the distributor and coil...

BUT... I AM CERTAINLY NO KIND OF EXPERT! , so take this for what it's worth... (not much!

)

good luck & post up some pictures!

-darin :cheers:

e30fj62 · Feb 5, 2014

yes i ended up biting the bullet and bought the "painless" wiring harness for my 350 TPI swap p/n 60102, but it´s been a learning process figuring out were to splice the ecm, alternator, fuel pump, what wiring to keep and reuse, etc etc...

right now im connecting the brake switch relay, fuel pump wire and hooking up the ecm to 12V....

it´s been a step by step long going process...

your thread has been huge help also.

Yet Another SBC TBI into an FJ62... (2 Viewers)

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