How hard was it to remove the old trim and re-install the new trim?
What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (103 Viewers)
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Fronts are a little tougher than the backs...need to loosen the mirror bolts from the inside (behind tweeter cover) and a small retaining screw at the back but that's about the extent of the difficulty. They have little plastic hooks that just need to be "unlatched" and then it just lifts/slides back.
There's a couple YT videos on it.
Thanks! I ordered the $43 set. I hope it's a fit. I've had the OEM one in my eBay cart but never pulled the trigger because it was around $250.
Due to an oil leak, I had to do my passenger side valve cover gasket and as luck would have it, three of the bottom bolts broke. After two hours of drilling and lots of patience I was able to remove the bolts and had the wholes re-threaded to the OEM size 6mm x 1.00. The new OEM bolts fit perfectly.
First time in a while I rolled down the driver window and appears the motor is shot and rolling down/up very slowly. I couldn’t find anywhere the P/N for the motor online so had to call the dealer.
8572060130 is the P/N and you can steal this for a cool $560
I found the Cardone version P/N on Rockauto for $62 (82-10001). If anyone has any feedback or experience kindly LMK.
8572060130 is the P/N and you can steal this for a cool $560
I found the Cardone version P/N on Rockauto for $62 (82-10001). If anyone has any feedback or experience kindly LMK.There are cheaper dealer options out there, there's a new on on Ebay for $313 + shipping, and there's used on Ebay as well. Just suggestions.First time in a while I rolled down the driver window and appears the motor is shot and rolling down/up very slowly. I couldn’t find anywhere the P/N for the motor online so had to call the dealer.
8572060130 is the P/N and you can steal this for a cool $560
I'd offer its probably not the motor. Make sure you clean the tracks and lube the mechanism. Also check your switches are making positive contact. I thought I had a bad motor, but during troubleshooting discovered the master switch had a poor wire contact at the harness plug. a small bend on the male contact and all was well again.First time in a while I rolled down the driver window and appears the motor is shot and rolling down/up very slowly. I couldn’t find anywhere the P/N for the motor online so had to call the dealer.
8572060130 is the P/N and you can steal this for a cool $560
Eyedaho
SILVER Star
Is this for sure a symptom of the motor dying, or are there other possible causes like window track friction, something slipping, or...? Asking because my passenger front window is very slow.First time in a while I rolled down the driver window and appears the motor is shot and rolling down/up very slowly. I couldn’t find anywhere the P/N for the motor online so had to call the dealer.
8572060130 is the P/N and you can steal this for a cool $560
A quick way to check this is run a hot and ground wire to the motor (it has two wires, polarity switches depending on which way you need it to move). If its still slow with clean tracks and lubed mechanism and a full 12v, then it is your motor. If hot wiring it is full speed, you have a poor continuity somewhere.
Why? / When is it necessary to get extended sway bar links? is that for front or rear or both bars?
my personal take: it's an ongoing discussion when lifting especially on the front. Some people prefer ext. links to balance the sway bar tension (and therefore also wear of the bushings), some don't care, some don't feel a difference.
When I lifted a couple weeks back I didn't do it, but might switch just to get an own impression.
When I lifted a couple weeks back I didn't do it, but might switch just to get an own impression.
Good job. I dont get why those bolts break so often if they so low torque.
It's done when you do a lift, plus the bushings in my front links were worn out. I didn't notice a difference in handling. I came across a couple posts claiming that some from flex is gained by running the longer links once lifted but there was no articulation measurements or pictures to back that claim up. The ones I posted are for the front but there are options for the rear as well. I removed my rear sway bar so I don't need longer links for the back but will do them if I ever put the rear bar back on.
GTV
SILVER Star
Suspension lifts change geometry. Putting the geometry back to how it was designed will give better results.
I'd like to see some proof as well. My suspension is only lifted 3/4" (AHC) but if they allowed for more travel without binding on compression I'd get some.
a_traut_man
SILVER Star
Finally installed my TT extended sway bar links, heck of a lot beefier than stock.
As the old saying goes every quick job is a broken bolt away from a 3 day ordeal… was on track for having it done in less than an hour and when I got to my last one (DS rear) I found the bushing sleeve was rusted to the bolt I needed to reuse and couldn’t get it out, I should have bought the other kit with the sway bar bushings and hardware.
Real glad I finally did it though, my rear sway bar no longer contacts the ol shock body.
As the old saying goes every quick job is a broken bolt away from a 3 day ordeal… was on track for having it done in less than an hour and when I got to my last one (DS rear) I found the bushing sleeve was rusted to the bolt I needed to reuse and couldn’t get it out, I should have bought the other kit with the sway bar bushings and hardware.
Real glad I finally did it though, my rear sway bar no longer contacts the ol shock body.
GTV
SILVER Star
Sensors is the only way to lift with AHC.
cleaned the sunroof pan and snaked the drain holes. i had a leak on the driver's side. all 6 window belt mouldings. the rear, 3rd row windows were a pita. water leaked into the 3rd row cubby. maybe fixed?
Received my new OEM Headlights for my '06 LX470... Got them on sale at Bell Lexus in North Scottsdale. The cost for the glass lens version was $332.81 each. Also got around to installing the Ironman 4x4 Recovery Points between the rainstorms we're having out here in California. Not that a Land Cruiser would ever get stuck...
Who should I get to convert to HID Projector Beams? I'm looking at LightWerkz... $1160 though...
Who should I get to convert to HID Projector Beams? I'm looking at LightWerkz... $1160 though...
You should read this thread…
Luke111 has it figured out.
HID MINI H1 BRACKET AND PROJECTOR INSTALL GUIDE
I would mount the harness on the passenger side close to the air box . I use heavy duty Velcro for the ballast but I have to have easy access to plug in headlights I’m building. Some have made brackets and others have plates under the headlights to mount the ballast. Try Google or Mud search...
forum.ih8mud.com
