Fresh rebuild crank won’t turn after installing in truck. (1 Viewer)

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Did you double check the torque on the harmonic balancer to confirm that the oil pump was operating properly? 306 LB-FT
Yes I torqued 306. What do you mean by oil pump working properly? Brand new timing cover and engine staring building oil pressure.
 
Oil pump gear is friction driven, no key, and requires the HB bolt to be torqued to 305ft# for proper drive.
 
Yes I torqued 306. What do you mean by oil pump working properly? Brand new timing cover and engine staring building oil pressure.
Well, because the oil pump is driven by the compression on the crank. If loose, it may build pressure initially, but not enough volume, thus starving the bearings.

What was your oil level!

Could the head not have drained the oil back to the pan, then starved the pump because all the oil is on top? Not sure how long it ran.

Anything external? Water pump, AC compressor, idler, alternator that may have locked up?
 
Oil pump gear is friction driven, no key, and requires the HB bolt to be torqued to 305ft# for proper drive.
thanks I bought a 4foot 3/4 drive just for that sucker and welded up a crank holder.

EEA451E5-7D17-416D-BFC0-C23D05B0AE09.jpeg
 
Well, because the oil pump is driven by the compression on the crank. If loose, it may build pressure initially, but not enough volume, thus starving the bearings.

What was your oil level!

Could the head not have drained the oil back to the pan, then starved the pump because all the oil is on top? Not sure how long it ran.

Anything external? Water pump, AC compressor, idler, alternator that may have locked up?
Oil level was spot on, only ran 45 seconds roughly, every moving part was slathered in assembly lube and I added oil to the pump per fsm when installing timing cover. All accessories belts pulled to release any tension on the crank.

image.jpg
 
Did you have the supercharger installed?

Drive belt on it?

Did the supercharger lock up?
 
Oil level was spot on, only ran 45 seconds roughly, every moving part was slathered in assembly lube and I added oil to the pump per fsm when installing timing cover. All accessories belts pulled to release any tension on the crank.

View attachment 3529338
Those cams look really dry.
 
Those cams look really dry.
Did you have the supercharger installed?

Drive belt on it?

Did the supercharger lock up?
Super charger spins freely, fresh oil in the nose cone. I agree the cams had not got oil yet not sure how long it takes to start splashing around up there.
 
I would want to borescope the bottom of the timing chain, easy for something to have fallen down there or the chain otherwise bound up. If all OK there remove or loosen cams see if the engine will turn. IF the re-manufactured heads required very much machining to correct 'warpage' then when pulled down to the block it can bind the cam bores. Once run....these could have scored. Very puzzling to be sure.
 
Auto trans, super charger had been on the truck when I bought. Engine lost oil pressure from crank bolt coming loose causing it to knock have not torn Down the original engine yet.


Start with the obvious, compression test and leak down test. Separate engine from trans if needed to perform the tests.

If you have not touched this yet, it came in and ran, then seized? Sounds like that is the case. Make sure flex plate isn’t busted, proceed to dropping the pan.

Obviously not a good thing to run it with no oil pump. Not the best design by Toyota for it to be run by a torqued bolt vs a gear that is keyed on the crank.

Cheers
 
If it ran for 45 seconds there should be oil in the head. I would definitely drop the oil to see what you have especially if you also pulled the plugs and there is no water in cylinder. Also judging by your half moons doesn’t look like you went crazy with fipg I’ve seen excess fipg used on timing covers and it blocks oil passages.
 
I had this happen to me on a remanufactured motor as well. Never really found out what happened. It turned 270 then bump both ways hard metal. Never really looked into that motor and still have it as a spare. I rebuilt the original myself and all is well 30k miles later. Maybe someday I’ll look into it.
 
I would want to borescope the bottom of the timing chain, easy for something to have fallen down there or the chain otherwise bound up. If all OK there remove or loosen cams see if the engine will turn. IF the re-manufactured heads required very much machining to correct 'warpage' then when pulled down to the block it can bind the cam bores. Once run....these could have scored. Very puzzling to be sure.
That’s the plan tomorrow borescope, pull cams. Head was decked .003 thousandths so not much.
 
Start with the obvious, compression test and leak down test. Separate engine from trans if needed to perform the tests.

If you have not touched this yet, it came in and ran, then seized? Sounds like that is the case. Make sure flex plate isn’t busted, proceed to dropping the pan.

Obviously not a good thing to run it with no oil pump. Not the best design by Toyota for it to be run by a torqued bolt vs a gear that is keyed on the crank.

Cheers
Start with the obvious, compression test and leak down test. Separate engine from trans if needed to perform the tests.

If you have not touched this yet, it came in and ran, then seized? Sounds like that is the case. Make sure flex plate isn’t busted, proceed to dropping the pan.

Obviously not a good thing to run it with no oil pump. Not the best design by Toyota for it to be run by a torqued bolt vs a gear that is keyed on the crank.

Cheers
Hopefully it doesn’t come to that. Will have to pull the engine to perform those tasks as the crank is potentially seized? I installed this it’s my personal rig. Flex plate looks ok but will need to do a proper borescope. Will drop the lower oil pan also to inspect further if pulling the cams doesn’t help and the bore scope looks good.
 
I had this happen to me on a remanufactured motor as well. Never really found out what happened. It turned 270 then bump both ways hard metal. Never really looked into that motor and still have it as a spare. I rebuilt the original myself and all is well 30k miles later. Maybe someday I’ll look into it.
This was a brand new short block from Toyota and a reman head so we will see. I’ll get to the bottom of it. Was super pumped it’s been a long journey here but will get it figured out.
 
Did you double check the torque on the harmonic balancer to confirm that the oil pump was operating properly? 306 LB-FT
There should be a key between crank and harmonic balancer, and between oil pump drive gear and crank. If the keys are in place, crank bolt torque shouldn't be immediately catastrophic

I had a failure with a 1fz-fe with new crank, new bearings etc. Oil pressure relief valve jammed open shortly after oil pressure came up on start up.
It ran for around 10 minutes before assembly lube was displaced and a knock became apparent, bit just 45 seconds.

Timing case was damaged on mine. Damage caused the relief valve to get stuck open.

Screenshot_20240110_222947_Brave.jpg
 
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Pull oil filter and cut open...... questioned answered
 
There should be a key between crank and harmonic balancer, and between oil pump drive gear and crank. If the keys are in place, crank bolt torque shouldn't be immediately catastrophic

I had a failure with a 1fz-fe with new crank, new bearings etc. Oil pressure relief valve jammed open shortly after oil pressure came up on start up.
It ran for around 10 minutes before assembly lube was displaced and a knock became apparent, bit just 45 seconds.

Timing case was damaged on mine. Damage caused the relief valve to get stuck open.

View attachment 3529508
This was replaced along with all the other gears.including new oil cooler cover and timing chain cover/oil pump.
 
Also, how was the oil pick up tube after the original engine lost oil pressure? When mine lost oil pressure the screen was covered with metal shavings. I replaced everything that oil touched but can't get a pick up tube so we removed the screen, hot tanked it and put the screen back in the tube.
 

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