That sucks sorry this happened to you. Was the leak on the strut shaft itself or on the fitting on top of the hydraulic strut?The shock failed, i thought a line bursted but looks like the shock itself had a massive leak in it. How common is this?
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That sucks sorry this happened to you. Was the leak on the strut shaft itself or on the fitting on top of the hydraulic strut?The shock failed, i thought a line bursted but looks like the shock itself had a massive leak in it. How common is this?
Going for that slammed look huhh.... I kidd, sorry for your lossWell looks like static lift or whole AHC overhaul is in order
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I’d have to take it to my shop tomorrow and check it out, but from crawling underneath today I didn’t see any damage to the line. It leaked/ruptured right where the line attaches to the shock valving. I think I need to pour a quart into the reservoir and cycle the AHC to see where the leak isThat sucks sorry this happened to you. Was the leak on the strut shaft itself or on the fitting on top of the hydraulic strut?
Yep ! I have the rear springs shimmed and front tb turned. It’s at 6.5mpa in rear and 6.8mpa front.I imagine the pressures were in spec?
These hydraulic shocks are abt $200 a pop, so definitely very reasonable, compared to almost all aftermarket static optionsI’d have to take it to my shop tomorrow and check it out, but from crawling underneath today I didn’t see any damage to the line. It leaked/ruptured right where the line attaches to the shock valving. I think I need to pour a quart into the reservoir and cycle the AHC to see where the leak is
Yep ! I have the rear springs shimmed and front tb turned. It’s at 6.5mpa in rear and 6.8mpa front.
Truck has 230K miles so I guess this was due
ImThese hydraulic shocks are abt $200 a pop, so definitely very reasonable, compared to almost all aftermarket static options
Is this what makes the key persnickety about turning occasionally?Replaced the ignition cylinder shaft as preventative maintenance on my '99 UZJ100 with 332,000 miles. The most time consuming part was getting the original (unbroken) shaft out of the ignition barrel.
The replacement ignition shaft (current production OEM) has subtle differences from the original part.
Honestly, it is the most sensible choice. Believe it or not, a solid majority of us never take our trucks off road but continue to out up with oversized, unnecessarily harsh tires, all for some street cred!I put new tires on my all stock 1998 Cruiser. I know it's not sexy but I went with 265/75r16 size Continental Terraincontact A/T's.
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Well looks like static lift or whole AHC overhaul is in order
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The sway bar link hold up a lot of the wheel travel, if it breaks, you basically have flex like solid front axles
I’m exaggerating a little bit lol, but yeah without the sway bar the front flex a lot lot more.You mean I went through all that effort when all I had to do was disco the sway bar!? FML man...
Is this what makes the key persnickety about turning occasionally?
Installed a Blue sea systems OLED voltage meter in a clean location and wired in a switch to override the interior lights turning on when the liftgate is open - this is huge for sleeping with the liftgate open or generally having the gate open for long periods while fishing, at camp, cooking on the gate, etc. Prepping for an upcoming trip west next month.
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There was previously a 12v socket where I installed it, so I just plugged it in there directly. Checking with a multimeter, it reads about .2V lower than at the battery terminals where it's installed in the cabin.What does the volt meter hook to? Is that just piggy backed off the 12V DC Cig Lighter?