What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (40 Viewers)

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The shock failed, i thought a line bursted but looks like the shock itself had a massive leak in it. How common is this?
That sucks sorry this happened to you. Was the leak on the strut shaft itself or on the fitting on top of the hydraulic strut?
 
Found a dual swing arm rear bumper on craigslist. It’s a bit of a clunky no name brand, but it’s super solid and a half or a third what the name brand stuff would go for.

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That sucks sorry this happened to you. Was the leak on the strut shaft itself or on the fitting on top of the hydraulic strut?
I’d have to take it to my shop tomorrow and check it out, but from crawling underneath today I didn’t see any damage to the line. It leaked/ruptured right where the line attaches to the shock valving. I think I need to pour a quart into the reservoir and cycle the AHC to see where the leak is
I imagine the pressures were in spec?
Yep ! I have the rear springs shimmed and front tb turned. It’s at 6.5mpa in rear and 6.8mpa front.

Truck has 230K miles so I guess this was due
 
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I’d have to take it to my shop tomorrow and check it out, but from crawling underneath today I didn’t see any damage to the line. It leaked/ruptured right where the line attaches to the shock valving. I think I need to pour a quart into the reservoir and cycle the AHC to see where the leak is

Yep ! I have the rear springs shimmed and front tb turned. It’s at 6.5mpa in rear and 6.8mpa front.

Truck has 230K miles so I guess this was due
These hydraulic shocks are abt $200 a pop, so definitely very reasonable, compared to almost all aftermarket static options
 
Replaced the ignition cylinder shaft as preventative maintenance on my '99 UZJ100 with 332,000 miles. The most time consuming part was getting the original (unbroken) shaft out of the ignition barrel.

The replacement ignition shaft (current production OEM) has subtle differences from the original part.

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These hydraulic shocks are abt $200 a pop, so definitely very reasonable, compared to almost all aftermarket static options
Im
Hoping it’s the shock and not the line, line is horrible to replace, I did one before. 😧
 
Replaced the ignition cylinder shaft as preventative maintenance on my '99 UZJ100 with 332,000 miles. The most time consuming part was getting the original (unbroken) shaft out of the ignition barrel.

The replacement ignition shaft (current production OEM) has subtle differences from the original part.
Is this what makes the key persnickety about turning occasionally?
 
I put new tires on my all stock 1998 Cruiser. I know it's not sexy but I went with 265/75r16 size Continental Terraincontact A/T's.

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Honestly, it is the most sensible choice. Believe it or not, a solid majority of us never take our trucks off road but continue to out up with oversized, unnecessarily harsh tires, all for some street cred!

Even the ones who do see some off road action, still spend majority of their time on tarmac!
Congrats on being sensible minority! 👏
 
Finally got around to installing my new rotors, pads, hubs, and bearing yesterday. All of these parts have been sitting in the garage for over a year and I decided to wait until the hottest day of the year so far to do it.

Next up, replacing the front AHC shocks now that the bushings are completely toast. Hoping the shocks I orders almost two years ago are that correct part number after finding out that there are two different types based on year model.

I'll be doing a writ-up later in the build thread I have for this cruiser: 2000 - LX470 - Karma- Build

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Well looks like static lift or whole AHC overhaul is in order

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I had the truck on the lift this morning, the leak is coming from the strut’s valving, it was oozing out under the strut cover. I ordered some aftermarket hydraulic shocks on Amazon as a temporary fix until I decide if I want to go full lift or overhaul the entire system with 4 oem shocks, sensors, accumulators and lines. I love AHC and would like to keep it running.


I also found out my sway bar end link broke, it was broken several days prior to the AHC failure, I heard clunk clunk noises while going over bumps but didn’t think anything of it until now, I’m guessing the excess wheel travel while hitting dips on the road might’ve contributed to the shock blowing out. The sway bar link hold up a lot of the wheel travel, if it breaks, you basically have flex like solid front axles
 
You mean I went through all that effort when all I had to do was disco the sway bar!? FML man...😂
I’m exaggerating a little bit lol, but yeah without the sway bar the front flex a lot lot more.
 
Is this what makes the key persnickety about turning occasionally?

I do not know if that symptom is caused by the shaft, or the actual key cylinder.
 
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Installed a Blue sea systems OLED voltage meter in a clean location and wired in a switch to override the interior lights turning on when the liftgate is open - this is huge for sleeping with the liftgate open or generally having the gate open for long periods while fishing, at camp, cooking on the gate, etc. Prepping for an upcoming trip west next month.
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Installed a Blue sea systems OLED voltage meter in a clean location and wired in a switch to override the interior lights turning on when the liftgate is open - this is huge for sleeping with the liftgate open or generally having the gate open for long periods while fishing, at camp, cooking on the gate, etc. Prepping for an upcoming trip west next month.
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What does the volt meter hook to? Is that just piggy backed off the 12V DC Cig Lighter?
 
What does the volt meter hook to? Is that just piggy backed off the 12V DC Cig Lighter?
There was previously a 12v socket where I installed it, so I just plugged it in there directly. Checking with a multimeter, it reads about .2V lower than at the battery terminals where it's installed in the cabin.

I figured it would be a good indicator of how my original 276k mile alternator is doing, with the added benefit of being able to monitor battery voltage at camp, with accessories running, etc.
 
Ordered new brake pads and was going to replace them but discovered I still had 50-60% left on my current pads. It was hard to tell how worn they were without removing the wheels and doing a through the spoke test so I panicked and ordered a full set of Akebonos for $100. Oh well, I ended up greasing the DS's and my ball joints in prep for my week long trip next week.
 

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